mfoley412

Hey I was wondering if you ever figured this out I have been having intermittent problems with my fuel/temp gauge the temp sensor bounces around at the bottom, even though the car gets warm like normal, I;m not sure if I need to bleed out some air bubbles from the cooling system (hopefully not since I just had it drained and filled at a shop). The fuel gauge works but will sometimes shoot from above a quarter tank down way below empty and slowly climb back up. Also is there a test for the voltage regulator and does anyone have a picture of it? I could just be baked but I didn't see anything about it in the fsm it just shows you how to test and replace the combo gauge... unless that's another name for the voltage reg.?

You finish this beast or what?

Sweet got the switch hooked up yesterday!! Feel a LOT safer now!! But now I want to get another manual transmission, tear it apart and see what exactly is supposed to be pushing the button on the reverse light switch from inside the tranny.

So if I wanted to just wire the switch inside the cab in the center console do I need a grounded wire or can I just hook the POS+ & NEG- wires to one of the unused switches on the console?

I have experimented with taking my bpt valve off because my pathfinder throws an egr code, but with the bpt valve off and lines plugged the code goes away, not really sure if I notice a difference in performance but it is nice to not have to look at the check engine light. Anyone else have this kind of issue?? and is there a way to test if the bpt vavle is working correctly, I kind of just want to get rid of it for good I hate seeing that light on the dash!

That doesn't change the fact that after I removed the factory alarm system my car starts EVERY TIME no questions.....the wires were shoved into the large battery wire not connected to the threaded post like everything else, my rig definitely didn't like it..

Do you have an alarm system? The alarm system in my 95 would cause my truck to click instead of starting sometimes, some sort of bad ground or something causing power to not go to the starter... But after I got the system ripped out the car starts EVERY time no exceptions (the wires for the alarm were kinda shoved into the battery wires all weird though..) no alarm but hey, wtf.

could you send me the 1995 pathfinder one please?

My cruise and horn didn't work until I put the top AND bottom of the plastic shroud around the steering wheel even though they are kinda messed up i think they allow something to make contact... My horn button/ centerpiece keeps coming off I want a new steering wheel bad but I want cruise control too!

It was the water pump I remember it was leaking a little bit like 5 months ago when I changed the thermostat, I just did the water pump and just about everything in front of it. Rig runs damn good now

Whew just did this over the last 5 days! Put the crank seal in wrong the first time had oil squirting everywhere, whoops lol, So I ended up taking it apart and putting it together a few times I guess finally had a brain fart finding the relief plug for the cooling system but after it's all said and done I am stoked the beast runs smoother than ever. I replaced the water pump (which was leaking), thermostat, both crank and the cam seals (only one was leaking), all of the belts and the fan clutch... definitely really happy with the outcome and happy to enjoy the next 100k or so (somewhat) worry free

Yeah I think there might be a small leak, maybe the water pump or possibly a hose, I have a new one, Its just too cold for me to want to dig into the engine right now cause if I do I'm going to do the timing belt and all related components.. I think the truck does run a little bit warmer now that I put in the new fan clutch.

well I got a new clutch but the fan still comes on when I start the engine... no real difference really. I guess the new one was a little more resistant to me moving it by hand but not really... and my coolant reservoir keeps getting emptied but I don't really notice coolant leaking bad from anywhere.. maybe its the bypass hose behind the thermostat housing, the water pump or a plug of some sort that is also under the timing cover... or is the thermostat somehow stuck open?? she still runs great and whatnot so I'm not too worried but I want to figure it out hopefully when I replace the timing belt and all close and related components here as soon as it gets warm enough.

Question!! If my radiator fan is on all the time is the only culprit the fan clutch or would the ECT sensor be one as well? Is there any way to test the fan clutch or should I just buy a new one? It definitely looks old (I checked it out a little bit last year before it got cold but I just decided to replace the thermostat until spring time) and I'm going to replace all of it anyways when I do the timing belt here as soon as it warms up a little bit..

Sounds like a steal if its not rusty... never put a plow on mine. Would probably work good though unless there was tons of really wet snow..

My tank was leaking from one of the spot welds on the bottom and had a bunch of gunk stuck on the tank where the leak was, Don't know for how long(I think before I owned the rig which was like a year or two ago) although I am pleased with how long my tanks last now . I ordered one off of amazon for like 130$ plus it was amazon prime so I got it like 2 days later... WAY worth it and (other than getting all the gas you put in there out) pretty easy to replace as well.

I definitely want to see this finished!! This is along the same lines of what I want to do with mine eventually, strip it down to nothing then build it back up but better, Super rust-resistant and just basically ready to last forever and go anywhere..

Well it was pretty easy to install the new tank, and Ohhh Man is it nice to not be losing gas through a stupid little hole anymore the only thing that I had a problem with was the plastic check valve that thing annoyed the hell outta me...

Just slapped on my rancho 5k's and drove around the block finding all the random dirt hills and whatnot that are still left... I like them. Nice firm ride not bouncy really at all, definitely comfortable and a noticeable difference to the old kyb's that were replaced(although they were all still good)..

Nice another Oregonian! Welcome! You will be stoked you found this place as it kicks ass...

Woohoo! it's only been since yesterday but my starter is dry this morning! New switch definitely was the way to go and now that I did this I noticed there was some gasket material that was worn off of the old switch where the electrical connector is.. Yay for no more oil leaks! (yet anyways..)

Sweet ordered a Nissan replacement hopefully it fixes it. I read somewhere else that it leaks through the switch . Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

I guess the torque is 7-12 foot lbs. I think i put it in a little more than that... should I try a new switch or a bolt with the same threading?? lol as I'm writing this I am answering my own questions.. Any and ALL input is very much appreciated though!! Also does anyone know the threading off hand so i don't have to pull the damned thing out to measure it with the things at ace?

I put plumbers tape on it and thought the leak stopped but its still got a small leak.. how far are you supposed to screw it in? or is there a torque specification for the Oil Pressure Switch?

I know it does it (sometimes) when the wheels are turned and going over a bump, I'm not exactly sure if it does it when the wheels are straight.. When I put my ranchos on this next week I will check it out more thoroughly. But like I said I've replaced the tension rod bushings, sway bar bushings/links nothing really looks bad, although I do eventually (maybe this summer) want to replace ALL of the bushings and stuff like that to just freshen things up.. The car is like 20 years old now I think it deserves it..