mfoley412

I just ordered some Rancho 5000's for mine as well. they'll be here next week I guess. I also have a crazy popping/metal sound that happens sometimes when i go over pretty good bumps Nissanland do you know what makes your noise?

So, I think I am finally going to fix the leak from the oil pressure switch.. Has anyone else had this problem? Why exactly is it leaking? can I just put some silicone squeeze gasket on the threads? or does it just need an O ring to be replaced?

at least for the bouncy highway travel problem, not sure about your steering problem I kind of had one but getting new tires made that better for me.

Re-Index your Torsion Bars. My front end was sloppy until I re-indexed.. now it feels sturdy.

Yeah not really a big deal. I ran different sizes too, just 2 of the same on the front and 2 of the same on the back. Not going to hurt anything really (although people have told me not to run the 4wd with the different tire sizes..).

I am curious about this problem as my car knocks or ticks when it is started up, it is not throwing an 02 sensor code though just a knock sensor code and only sometimes. but it calms down as it warms up, and it drives perfectly fine (other than feeling kind of restricted from either the exhaust( which smells like rotten eggs/sulfur sometimes... I have a 95 And it does throw the egr temp sensor code also, but I think that's because I took off the egr-bpt valve..

Yeah new tires make a world of difference I just ended up buying a set of BF Goodrich A/T tires after going through what it sounds like you are for a minute. $600 though for the set of 4 mounted and balanced. its a pretty penny but once you get some new tires you will be much more comfortable.

I have my new gas tank coming tomorrow. Preparing myself to swap them out, have a small leak on the bottom passenger side (I assume because there is a build up of wet sludge on the bottom that smells of gasoline..). Guess I will probably want to spray the bolts for the skid plate and the tank with wd40 at least? Will the fuel pump just hang there or should I prepare something(or have someone else there) to hold it up? Besides the lock ring provided with the tank are there any other gaskets, or other things that I should probably replace?(I know I will find out for sure tomorrow )

Both of my boots are ripped on the bottom, and when I go around turns i hear kind of a clunk. Should I be worried about fixing my cv boots before going into winter? I live in Central Oregon and will probably have a pretty snowy winter.. I have never really had to work on the 4wd, it has worked fine for me since I got the truck and I think the boots have been ripped the whole time, I dont really use the 4wd unless its bad weather out.

dang well there is a pathfinder that is the same year as mine at the wrecking yard close to me. I need to go check it out I guess..

Guess I am going to bump this thread because I am having (seemingly) the same problem with my rear drivers side window. When I roll it up or down it gets stuck in 2 spots and makes a grinding noise. I have pulled off the door panel and looked at the regulator a little bit and nothing seems to be blocking it... Seems that it is a problem with the connection from the motor to the regulator? If so which part is the culprit?

yeah I don't know I do have one that's further towards the front that is not hooked up to anything..

So first picture is the relay, second is the grey connector which is connected into the main positive battery wire do you have anything coming out of the main + battery wire that is not hooked up?

yes mine is manual, but mine is an SE not an XE

I am pretty sure the fuse holder is for the alarm too(I ripped some out when I took my alarm out), that blue relay or whatever it is should be up on the inside fender by the battery, and the grey one should be attached, as it is in my car(not exactly sure what it is for off the top of my head though)...

definitely a switch for the alarm, I recently took mine out, and left mine hanging just like that lol. although it is supposed to have a little switch on the top not just a bolt in there.

oops double posted, anyone know of a good detergent to help get the oil off pretty easily?

welll looks like I need to pressure wash the bottom off so I can make sure. but thanks Im pretty sure its the vavle cover + oil from oil changes.

I actually did notice one of the screws on the valve cover are wet with oil... thanks a bunch for your input!

No nothing really ever has to be refilled. the oil did go down a little bit after driving from central oregon down almost to tahoe and back. but I figure that I would probably lose a little bit of oil on that long of a trip..because after I changed the oil the level did not drop until after driving for a couple thousand miles AND the trip down and back. would my car with almost 190,000 on the clock burn a little bit of oil off over that big of a trip? Also the fluid in the master cylinder is pretty black...

Hey there, I have been wondering about this slow leak on my pathfinder, I have been monitoring it since I got the truck about a year ago, seems to be coming from the slave cylinder, although I am not completely sure of it. The dust cover seal around the slave is all yucky and the drips seem to be coming down from there and dripping off of the tranny, not very much leaks ever, and I can't tell that anything is losing fluid. The other possibility is from changing the oil because of where the filter is stupidly located there is oil that is inadvertently spilled almost every time the oil is changed, then eventually cools down/dries out, gets reheated and slowly makes its way down and across the engine and onto the tranny where it drips, drips, drips.... And then the OTHER, OTHER possibility I have been mulling over is if the rear main seal is leaking inside where the slave is mounted and coming through the seal, which i suppose is possible but I have no clue. I think its probably a combination of two of these things.. I have some photos of the slave and the crossmember/oil pan to show that there is an oil film over a lot of the bottom which i think is from the oil filter also the seal and/or dust cover for the slave is ripped a little bit and it looks more wet there than anywhere else. http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx59/matthew_foley1/slave2_zpsbf54bef6.jpg (slave) http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx59/matthew_foley1/slave1_zps63d60ae8.jpg (slave) http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx59/matthew_foley1/underc1_zpse2045e54.jpg Crossmember/oil pan

Did this yesterday to my 95 SE. Very easy procedure raised the sagging front end about two inches or so. All I did was rotate 2 splines and crank the bars until there was 2" of the adjuster bolt sticking out from each side. Looks way better now!! less bouncy ride as well.

I can't figure out how to put a picture up here. I ended up Solving the problem, basically just did a whole rearrangement of the mechanism/ actuators. Was very repetative opening and closing the hatch over and over pushing buttons screwing and unscrewing bolts ugh.. But my back door locks now WooHoo! and I managed to get the dent halfway out with some help from a buddy.

the key works half of the time, the other half of the time it doesnt want to turn, but it pops open and locks down but only with the door unlocked. The door though will not lock unless the glass hatch wont lock, maybe it just needs to be adjusted to the perfect spot... it is very frustrating.

So to start off I kind of recently backed up into a big concrete pillar with the spare tire carrier on. Dented the back hatch a little bit but luckily didn't do much damage it is mostly superficial. My problem is that my back hatch will not lock with the doors unless the glass is popped open.. I have been playing around with it, adjusting the twisty thing inside the door and messing with the actuators moving the lock around a bit.. but I cannot get it to change. the actuators did not get moved or damaged and neither did anything else that i can tell that has to do with opening and unlocking the door because the door shuts and opens smoothly... the little button on the bottom of the door locks it and pops the window open at the same time. very confused...