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I smell gas inside the cab


Balln
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Hey guys wanna see if I can pick your brain on this one. The other day I smelt gas really bad so i took a look and found it leaking from the hose that's comes from the fuel filter to the hard line just above the pas side valve cover. I fixed that and no more leaking. Now a few days later I started getting another gas smell but not straight gas more like the truck was running rich. So yesterday I decided I would change the plugs to see if that might help. The old plugs where a whitish grey color I can post a pic later. After I did that I checked my dis cap and rotor and they where pretty crusty so after Sanding those down I popped them back on. I decided to crawl under it to see if I could find anything interesting and only found that under my pas side vlave cover was a bit wet. But it was oil come to find out my valve cover was loose. Got that all tight and started her up. I started it up and the exhuast smelt funny kind like a stink bug lol but after it idled for a bit it cleared up and ran fine and no smell of gas and the exhuast didn't have a smell. I took it for a drive and got on it here and there and everything seemed fine. Got back home and couldn't smell gas or anything. So I headed to work this morning and on my way I turned on the heater and started to smell it again. Pulled up to work and one of the guys said he could smell it to as soon as he got out of his truck a couple spots away. The truck runs good and there is no check engine light I have no clue what could be cuasing this.

 

Anyone have a clue to might be wrong.

 

Thanks

Ryan

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3 things to check, probably in this order:

The clamps on the rubber hoses that go between the metal fuel rails, one in front and one in back.

The fuel filler down tube to make sure it isn't shifted or compromised.

The evap canister lines to see if they are blocked or even properly hooked up.

 

Those 3 are causes of probably 90% of the fuel leaks I know of.

 

Wait, one more. The seal of the port in the top of the tank, accessable by pulling up the carpet and opening the little hatch.

 

B

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Thank you Sir

 

With my body lift it makes it easier to check those gas lines. I watched the filler hose and no leaks. It doesn't smell like gas in the back of the truck so I doubt its the fuel pump seal. The evap canister ill have to take a look at. Hopfully one of the lines popped off or is ripped real bad. If so that wouldn't cause the engine light to come on?

Edited by Balln
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On a WD21? I wouldn't count on it...

 

I don't know the evap system code from experience, but I've been surprised what would and wouldn't trigger the CEL light. My experience in general is to check the ecu codes and then trouble shoot regardless. Gas smell can usually be hunted down, but it's also not something to mess around with either. Sounds like you have most of the usual suspects covered.

Do you have a fire extinguisher?

 

B

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Your smelling it inside the cab, but its worth it to check the gas tank itself. Pull off the gas tank skid plate (its 4 bolts) and just check the bottom of the tank. A few others and myself have had a pinhole leak at a spot weld on the tank itself. Also, pull up the rear carpet and pop off the fuel pump inspection cover, also worth a check.

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So I found it. It's a gas leak and a big one. I checked it before and there was nothing but now its leaking. It's the 2" hose that connects the two fuel rails together right under the dist cap. Was really hard to see under all those wires but its leaking pretty good. Hopfully that's all of them. Guess its time to replace all the gas line. Just glad its something simple. Thanks for all the help on this guys.

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So I found it. It's a gas leak and a big one. I checked it before and there was nothing but now its leaking. It's the 2" hose that connects the two fuel rails together right under the dist cap. Was really hard to see under all those wires but its leaking pretty good. Hopfully that's all of them. Guess its time to replace all the gas line. Just glad its something simple. Thanks for all the help on this guys.

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Glad you found it quickly and hopefully it is just that one, for now anyway.You are right, it might be a good idea to plan to change the other lines, even if it is only when you are working on something else and have access.

 

B

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I have seen that problem reported here many times and tightening seems to usually fix it.

Replaceing the hose is always good though for piece of mind!

Edited by Alkorahil
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  • 2 weeks later...

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Nefarious" data-cid="648908" data-time="1356808203"><p>

My gfs pathy just had the same problem,, only once it got cold and it was horrible leak. Tightened the clamps now its fine, lol</p></blockquote>

 

Yep I just went out and did the same thing, plenty of gas leaking out of the side right behind the distributer

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  • 2 years later...

I know this is an old topic but it seems like a common problem with the pathy. I noticed this happened recently as it started getting colder. I start it up from a cold start and its a horrendous gas odor that dissipates after driving a bit. I never get the smell after Its been running for a while and I start it up again. Did anyone else notice the gas smell anywhere else? I first noticed it when I was pumping gas one day.

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I know this is an old topic but it seems like a common problem with the pathy. I noticed this happened recently as it started getting colder. I start it up from a cold start and its a horrendous gas odor that dissipates after driving a bit. I never get the smell after Its been running for a while and I start it up again. Did anyone else notice the gas smell anywhere else? I first noticed it when I was pumping gas one day.

 

You're not alone. I get this all the time! I've almost accepted it as being part of the WD21 experience lol

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My '93 doesn't do that. My '95 had leaks at the fuel rail, leaks from a rusted out tank (up at the flange, which took a while to find), and then the crappy cheap replacement tank I got on eBay wouldn't seal to the fuel pump properly and so leaked vapor, but with those things dealt with, the only thing the fuel system did to annoy me was the check valve making a noise like a duck when it decided to vent.

 

Assuming you've ruled out the usual fuel rail leaks and the seal for the pump, I would have a look at the vac lines on the carbon can (make sure they're connected at both ends), and the condition of the can itself. If that all looks good, check where the evap lines meet the tank. IIRC you can find the hookup on the front of the tank by pulling the fuel pump access cover and jamming your arm in there, and if you remove the passenger's rear wheel, you can more or less get at the lines and the check valve. You can also pull the line that goes to the canister and blow into it; IIRC the check valve should hold pressure. It should allow air though if you suck on it, but given that it's full of gas vapor, I don't recommend sucking on it.

 

The table in the FSM doesn't show any code for the evap system.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mine recently started doing it so bad that it's unbearable to drive. I guess karma's a bitch sometimes considering I just made fun of this issue not long ago lol. So I've located the leak, it's the rubber fitting between the two fuel rails towards the front of the engine. I've seen people "tightening the clamps," but I don't know how that's done. Could someone explain that to me please? It would be greatly appreciated!

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I would go ahead and replace the splice with some fuel rated hose and new clamps. Both should be rated for pressurized fuel system. At first it may seem impossible but push the hose far onto the left nipple and then slide it back over the right side. Don't forget the clamps before you put the hose on... (I wonder what makes me bring that up?)

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  • 1 year later...

Mine recently started doing it so bad that it's unbearable to drive. I guess karma's a bitch sometimes considering I just made fun of this issue not long ago lol. So I've located the leak, it's the rubber fitting between the two fuel rails towards the front of the engine. I've seen people "tightening the clamps," but I don't know how that's done. Could someone explain that to me please? It would be greatly appreciated!

 

Bob you figured out how then didn't bother to explain? I guess its easy once you see it,

 

I just wanted to be prepared with the right tool(s). Anyone got a picture?

Edited by Baldone
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  • 4 weeks later...

Mine was held in place with some stainless steel clamps with a #2 Phillips, I kept the clamps and replaced the hose with a piece of high pressure fuel line ( total cost of $0.89 ) because I was already in there and replacing a stuck injector anyway..

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  • 5 years later...

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