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Harbinger's Automatic to Manual transmission swap.


Harbinger
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I'm sure most of you know that my Autotragic transmission died on me a few weeks ago.

 

Details are here: http://www.nissanpat...how-boned-am-i/

 

I've decided to swap in a 5 speed.

 

I'm referencing a few threads that are helping me out a lot. I'm putting them here just to aid searching in the future. I abused the hell out of the search button before starting this, and have gone through quite a few engine/transmission removal threads too that I won't mention here.

 

http://www.nissanpat.../page__hl__swap

 

http://www.nissan4wh...25218489/page/1

 

So it begins:

img9018a.jpg

 

Yesterday I started at the top of the truck. I removed the center console, several dash pieces, the AT shifter, and the shift-lock cable.

 

img9021c.jpg

 

Today I was able to remove the steering column. I hadn't been able to remove it because the slip joint near the firewall was corroded. I unbolted the bracket (2 bolts) that held the end of the secondary steering column to the steering column and was able to pull it out. Once the column was pulled I removed the AT specific brake lever. I'll need to source a shorter one to go with a clutch pedal/bracket.

 

img9019v.jpg

 

Once the top was done (well for the moment) I moved under the truck. I removed the front and rear drive lines (or propeller shafts per the FSM).

 

 

img9024a.jpg

 

I then disconnected the AT shift cable from the transmission. I'm fighting with the electrical connections, these factory plugs can be difficult to disconnect! I hosed down some cross member/t-bar/exhaust bolts with PB blaster. Then packed up my tools and started drinking beer.

 

 

Side note, can anyone tell me what this plug was meant to have? It sits just up and to the right of the gas pedal. I had to remove my battery cable that runs to the rear of the truck, and all the relay wires for my aux lights since I ran them through the Clutch Master cylinder plug before! If it isn't anything I'm going to need in the next few weeks, I'd like to rewire my cab->firewall transition there.

 

img9029o.jpg

Edited by Harbinger
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If it were me I wouldn't rewire anything...i would just either jump the shift interlock or take it to the clutch interlock...go find my 95 to 87 swap on 4x4 parts...I put auto into my MT...i can't remember all the details as that was about 5 or 6 years ago...just remember

 

KISS keep it simple stupid

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I wouln't try to re-route any large wires, or bundles of wires through there either. That panel doesn't have much space between it and the drivers side cylinder head. Most people route things like cb radio wires or extra lighting wires through the panel.

 

Like unccpathfinder said, it is easier to jump the transmission lock. I will look over the weekend to see if I have a spare MT brake pedal. Do you need an MT shift boot or anything else? I have a small selection of parts from the swap.

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The plug with the metal bracket across it? is that what you are asking about? Possibly could be for the AC lines on a right hand drive model???

Edited by ahardb0dy
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If it were me I wouldn't rewire anything...i would just either jump the shift interlock or take it to the clutch interlock...go find my 95 to 87 swap on 4x4 parts...I put auto into my MT...i can't remember all the details as that was about 5 or 6 years ago...just remember

 

KISS keep it simple stupid

 

Que? The wiring I'm currently "re-wiring" was all aux stuff ran through the hole where the clutch master cylinder installs.

 

I will jumper the transmission lock when the new tranny is in lol.

 

I wouln't try to re-route any large wires, or bundles of wires through there either. That panel doesn't have much space between it and the drivers side cylinder head. Most people route things like cb radio wires or extra lighting wires through the panel.

 

Like unccpathfinder said, it is easier to jump the transmission lock. I will look over the weekend to see if I have a spare MT brake pedal. Do you need an MT shift boot or anything else? I have a small selection of parts from the swap.

 

How do you mean "through the panel"? I know where that one I pictured comes out, but I figured with enough wire wrap and e-tape you can insulate about anything. :) I am open to other suggestions though.

 

So far I don't have any of the MT parts. I'm waiting on my student loan refund to find a suitable donor truck to strip down.

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Hmm I didn't have anything ran thru there...in fact at 1 time I had the 87 MT harness and the 95 AT harness in the truck and nothing thru. That hole

 

I didn't either at first. When I installed a battery in the rear of my truck and installed my. Aux lights, thants where I brought the cables through the firewall. Had no idea at the time that id be converting to a 5 spd!

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Its amazing how when men find an empty hole, they have the need to stick something into it. :lmao::new576:

 

It's great you're posting up all sorts of referencing material on here. It would be handy to have 1 or 2 threads out there that go thru the whole process in detail to take the work load out for future members tackling this. Good work so far. :aok:

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Its amazing how when men find an empty hole, they have the need to stick something into it. :lmao::new576:

 

It's great you're posting up all sorts of referencing material on here. It would be handy to have 1 or 2 threads out there that go thru the whole process in detail to take the work load out for future members tackling this. Good work so far. :aok:

 

What can I say, I do like holes! Most of them anyway, now that I've ordered a pillar gauge pod, and decided to convert to a 5 speed, I'm kinda regretting drilling that 2"ish hold in the lower dash panel for the transmission temp gauge. The very same gauge I need to rip out now...

 

Thanks dowser, I've been doing so much searching that I thought I would condense things here. I'm a professional photographer (at least when I'm not spouting that I'm a student or an unemployed layabout!) by trade so it made sense to post some things here. All photos are hosted by image shack, so hopefully the links will last...

 

Made some progress today on the t-bars. I'm currently stuck trying to remove them from the LCA's. All the adjusters, the C clips etc have been removed. I've loosened all 3 bolts that connect them to the torque arms, but the largest of 3 bolts is proving difficult. The 19mm bolt is just spinning, and I can't for the life of me get a wrench, or socket into the LCA to stop it from spinning. I also pulled the bolts for the t-bar xmember, but the x-member is still stuck to the frame. I left everything soaking in PB blaster before packing up my tools.

 

My main point of reference for tackling the t-bars was this thread: http://www.nissanpat...r-torsion-bars/ The part that isn't included in that thread is actually removing the bars. Through my searching I found a few people commenting they had to loosen the 3 bolts holding the t-bar to the LCA to remove them. Which is where I'm left for the day.

 

I will try to get back out to the truck tomorrow, and post some pictures.

Edited by Harbinger
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Made some progress today on the t-bars. I'm currently stuck trying to remove them from the LCA's. All the adjusters, the C clips etc have been removed. I've loosened all 3 bolts that connect them to the torque arms, but the largest of 3 bolts is proving difficult. The 19mm bolt is just spinning, and I can't for the life of me get a wrench, or socket into the LCA to stop it from spinning. I also pulled the bolts for the t-bar xmember, but the x-member is still stuck to the frame. I left everything soaking in PB blaster before packing up my tools.

 

My main point of reference for tackling the t-bars was this thread: http://www.nissanpat...r-torsion-bars/ The part that isn't included in that thread is actually removing the bars. Through my searching I found a few people commenting they had to loosen the 3 bolts holding the t-bar to the LCA to remove them. Which is where I'm left for the day.

 

I will try to get back out to the truck tomorrow, and post some pictures.

 

:scratchhead: :scratchhead: :scratchhead:

 

So if I'm reading your statement above right the only thing holding the t-bars in the truck are the front torque arms (anchor?) bolted to the lower control arm?

 

Personally, I've had my tranny out twice and never unbolted the torque arms from the lower control arms. I just slid the T-bar out of them (its splined) and went on my merry way.

 

Is it too stuck to slide out? Usually wiggling it up and down a few times will help break up any corrosion and let it slide out. Also, spray penetrant between T-bar and torque arm. (Looks like you may have already done that)

 

Are you trying to preserve the position? I tried this by matching marking, but in the end it just doesn't matter. You'll need to reset things when you re-assemble anyway and have your alignment checked. I know this sounds half-a$$d but I've had the T-bars out a few times and found trying to keep track of the position was more trouble than it was worth. In the end I had to re-adjust anyway cause things didn't come out like I wanted. So now I just put it were I think its right, torque up the adjusters, check the height, if not correct then either adjust more or if necessary unload, rotate one spline on the adjuster, and torque back up. BTW, don't run down your or unload you adjuster bolts with an impact wrench........creates too much heat and you'll end up galling the threads. [been there done that....now my Jap vehicle has a fully threaded English adjuster bolt on one side] You can use the impact on its lowest setting (recommend with lubricant), but once its starts getting real tension on it switch to hand cranking.

 

BTW, Keep track of which T-bar is left and which one is right when you get them out. Your not supposed to swap them IIRC.

 

Also (if you wheel), when you re-assemble you want the adjusters tucked up into the cross-member so that don't hang on a rock. [Did that one too]. Ok...i've blathered on as I tend to do...if i'm not making sense I'll try to clarify.

Edited by andreus009
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I am aware they are splined. Rubber mallets, pulling, hosing them down with PB blaster, etc hasn't removed them from the front mounts. They came out of the rear mounts fairly easily...

 

Checking the FSM they have you remove the torque arm with the bar, thus why I'm fighting with those bolts on the LCA.

 

Could care less about maintaining their position, although I did mark both sides of each bar. Will probably be replacing the t bars with new stiffer units when I reassemble.

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Are you up on jack stands with the wheels drooping? If so, try putting a jack under the lower control arm and jacking up a little bit (~.5"-1") and try again. It's worked for me in the past.

 

Strange that they would be that much more stuck compared to the adjuster. It's less engagement then in the adjuster.

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Like andreus009 said, jack the lower A arm up till it's almost level with the ground. When the arms are at full droop they are pushing the T bar to the side. I don't think removing the three bolts on the anchor will help much. The bolt that holds the lower A arm to the frame bushing has a splined head and is right behind the T bar in the anchor so it won't come off.

James

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I don't think removing the three bolts on the anchor will help much.

I found that the splines were binding a bit preventing me from easily removing the T-bars. Once I loosened the 3 anchor bolts, they basically slid right out. This was with the truck suspended by the frame and wheels drooping IIRC.

 

B

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I got some time to try again yesterday. The right side bar dropped out after some more hammering and some love from my heat gun. Spent another hour hammering, heating, and pb blasting the left hand side, and it is still in that torque arm.

 

The dust boot was really thrashed on that side. Hoping more of the beat, heat and treat will get it out. I have a jack under the LCA on the drivers side too, and while it seems to have taken some strain off the bar it still doesn't want to budge.

 

Hoping to beat on it some more today!

Edited by Harbinger
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I have made some more progress!

 

A few days ago I ran to the local pull a part. Grabbed the following off a 1987 2wd V6 D21.

 

A brake pedal

Clutch pedal

Clutch master cylinder

Slave cylinder

Upper clutch hydraulic lines

Slave cylinder to lower block hard line

connecting block from lower hard line to rubber line

Misc bolts/nuts/relays

That rubber/metal insulating bit that covers the lower part of the steering column.

 

All for less than 25 bucks!

 

I've now got the pedals installed along with the steering column. Also have the clutch cylinders installed and the top clutch hydro line. I've rewired my battery cable and the light trigger wires so the truck starts again. With that i pulled the line coming from my tranny cooler and had a buddy start the truck. Happy to say that the filter/cooler aren't blocked when they are plumbed correctly! Drained the tranny and the t case next.

 

I had to take her off the jack stands and push her into the street. Landlord is having new gravel dropped off for my driveway tomorrow. Not looking forward to shoveling that.

 

Oddly enough, after all the banging/heating and what not that I did to the last tbar, it pulled out with one hand after I dropped the truck to the ground!

 

Progress is progress!

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

I thought it was about time I updated this!

 

Picked this up today from a local scrap yard who had it sitting on a shelf already pulled.

img20121003105253.jpg

 

It's a 1998 R50 Manual with 168k on it and came with a warranty. I'm hoping that by using the updated post-96 transmission I can avoid one that never got the TSB memo...

 

Being that it's a newer transmission meant for the 3.3, it's listed as having a different clutch kit than the WD21's. I emailed exedy and got this response.

 

Cory,

Thank you for your interest in Exedy products. The 06058( 97-99 3.3l Nissan Pathfinder) clutch kit has a slightly heavier clamp load for the pressure plate, the clutch disc spline and friction surface area are the same between the two. The disc in the 06058 has different damping springs over the 06042 ( 90-95 3.0l Nissan Pathfinder).The 06058 kit uses a different release bearing than the 06042 kit. The bolt pattern on the pressure plate assembly is the same between the two kits. I cannot confirm if the 06058 kit will work with your existing 1995 3.0l flywheel. If you have any more questions feel free to contact me.

 

Sincerely,

Steve Kaminski

 

Technical Coordinator

www.Exedyusa.com

I need to find a 3.3 flywheel and compare it to mine, since if that will match up I think the newer clutch kit would be the way to go since wouldn't the release bearing be specific to the transmission?

 

Progress on the truck has been slow. School is keeping me way busy and we're finally getting the driveway to a point where I can pull the truck back up onto it. Need to get that autotragic out of there!

Edited by Harbinger
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So I got her pushed back into the driveway and back up on jack stands today.

 

Got the torison bar xmember out today after a few hours of prying and pb blasting.

 

Looking at the exhaust cross pipe, its all so very corroded. Wasn't able to find one bolt that wouldn't strip off when I got a socket on it. Am debating about just taking a saw or a grinder too it and then taking her to an exhaust shop when I get the swap done.

 

Also got the tranny cooler, filter and temp gauge removed today. Will be putting all that on the for sale forum soon.

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I just looked up the flywheels for a 95 PF and a 96 PF with the 3.3, the flywheels, from 2 different companies are the exact same part numbers. Also looked up a 98 and it is the same part number too.

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