Harbinger Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 Brake fluid? I hope you mean brake cleaner! Lmao, yes, brake cleaner. Took two cans to my starter and I must say it's looking shiny compared to the oil covered thing that I pulled out of there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Wishing you the best of luck and progress. Done the transmission in the driveway before with rain and it sucks. At least it wasnt cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 60 dollars for a rear main seal? Ouch, I only paid 40 or so and that was in canada (where everything is generally more pricey). It also came with the seal retainer gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) Got the flex plate out yesterday with a little help from my roomie. It's getting cold outside! My RMS does have a slight leak so I'll be changing it, despite the costs. Silly question, but the flex plate I pulled off isn't the same as a manual's flywheel, correct? Looks like another part to add to the list. Edited October 24, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) Silly question, but the flex plate I pulled off isn't the same as a manual's flywheel, correct? Looks like another part to add to the list. correct. you'll need a flywheel if you don't have one already. Oh, and with an automatic there is a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, you'll need to find a way to remove it. easiest way for me was to get a punch that was very close to the diameter of the hole, and fill it with grease and use the punch to get as much in there as possible. the pressure will eventually push the bearing out. Edited October 24, 2012 by silverton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 correct. you'll need a flywheel if you don't have one already. Oh, and with an automatic there is a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, you'll need to find a way to remove it. easiest way for me was to get a punch that was very close to the diameter of the hole, and fill it with grease and use the punch to get as much in there as possible. the pressure will eventually push the bearing out. I'll have to take some pics of the end of my crankshaft. I couldn't see a bearing in the end of it last night (I think Beastpath's was the same?), but I know what your talking about. Taken from here: http://www.nissan4wheelers.com/displayForumTopic/content/286003431025218489/page/1 Where this is what mine looks like. There is a little lip and then it gets wider as it goes in towards the crank, but I didn't see any actual pieces that looked like they weren't solid. As far as flywheels go. The local scrapyards don't have any in stock and I haven't had luck finding any left in the you-pull-it yards. If I order a new one will I still have to get it machined? Since looking at $50 for a used one plus $30ish in machining, I could just buy a new one on rockauto.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 I've never had to machine a new one. Sometimes they have a little surface rust from sitting around but that's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 As far as flywheels go. The local scrapyards don't have any in stock and I haven't had luck finding any left in the you-pull-it yards. If I order a new one will I still have to get it machined? Since looking at $50 for a used one plus $30ish in machining, I could just buy a new one on rockauto.... No, a new one will be freshly machined and a remanufactured unit will have been turned down already. I looked at having my flywheel faced but wound up buying a remanufactured unit at Napa IIRC for $60 and my old one; it was the same price and faster. Flywheels don't always need to be resurfaced, but if the clutch wore down to the rivets, there is significant glazing or chattering on the surface it is a good idea. Look at it the same way as rotors and just use common sense.. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 You are better off with the new one. What most people don't know is when you machine a flywheel surface with a hydraulic clutch you must shim the flywheel on the crank the same amount or your clutch pedal will be low. Most people don't do this and fight problems with the clutch dragging while shifting. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Good info to know on the Flywheels, thanks everyone! Well, just ordered a new flywheel from RockAuto. Comparable prices to all the local parts houses with a similar wait time. Not sure why I even try and buy local parts anymore! Also got a set of track bar bushings for when I install GrandpaX's panhard drop bracket. Want everything to be good when I take it back for an alignment. Just got off the phone with Alkorail too. Nice guy! Ordered up new torison bar boots, a rear main seal, hydraulic clutch hose, new springs for the clutch fork/release bearing, a new boot where the stick shift meets the transmission, and two new torsion bar bolts & 4 nuts. The lower hydraulic clutch hard line is no longer produced by Nissan. Alkorail said that one dealer left in the US has one, and it's clear across the country in Maine. I'm waiting to hear back from them now. Then my clutch kit, R50 release bearing, Redline MT90, new t-case input/output seals and a transmission mount all came in yesterday. With any luck I'll be able to bolt the new tranny up next week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 You could always make a line yourself. IIRC it uses the same fittings the brake lines do, and you can buy bulk line for cheap. It is easy to bend by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 You are better off with the new one. What most people don't know is when you machine a flywheel surface with a hydraulic clutch you must shim the flywheel on the crank the same amount or your clutch pedal will be low. Most people don't do this and fight problems with the clutch dragging while shifting. James Good point, I didn't consuider that. How thick are the shims? I wouldn't have thought .02-.03" would matter and you rarely have to turn down farther than that. Good info to know on the Flywheels, thanks everyone! Well, just ordered a new flywheel from RockAuto. Comparable prices to all the local parts houses with a similar wait time. Not sure why I even try and buy local parts anymore! Also got a set of track bar bushings for when I install GrandpaX's panhard drop bracket. Want everything to be good when I take it back for an alignment. Just got off the phone with Alkorail too. Nice guy! Ordered up new torison bar boots, a rear main seal, hydraulic clutch hose, new springs for the clutch fork/release bearing, a new boot where the stick shift meets the transmission, and two new torsion bar bolts & 4 nuts. The lower hydraulic clutch hard line is no longer produced by Nissan. Alkorail said that one dealer left in the US has one, and it's clear across the country in Maine. I'm waiting to hear back from them now. Then my clutch kit, R50 release bearing, Redline MT90, new t-case input/output seals and a transmission mount all came in yesterday. With any luck I'll be able to bolt the new tranny up next week! Yep, I've had good luck with Rock Auto. Absolutely, that's one of the reasons I recommend him constantly. Sounds like you are making some good progress, keep it up! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 26, 2012 Author Share Posted October 26, 2012 You could always make a line yourself. IIRC it uses the same fittings the brake lines do, and you can buy bulk line for cheap. It is easy to bend by hand. They do look identical to the brake connections. Can you find this bulk line at any auto parts store? It's not something I've seen before, despite spending many hours in the local parts houses. Good point, I didn't consuider that. How thick are the shims? I wouldn't have thought .02-.03" would matter and you rarely have to turn down farther than that. Yep, I've had good luck with Rock Auto. Absolutely, that's one of the reasons I recommend him constantly. Sounds like you are making some good progress, keep it up! B Yeah, I've had great luck with rock auto and factory nissan parts. I have probably 20 of those Rock Auto magnets on my fridge right now! I've gone through factorynissanparts before, when I first installed my suspension lift. Rob's a great guy to deal with! It's coming along, but actual progress out on the truck has been slow. School is kicking my arse and it's getting colder and wetter day by day. I rode my motorcycle home from class in the rain on Wednesday. 75mph out in the open drizzle, even in full jeans, leather MC jacket, scarf, winter gloves and my full face helmet, it probably took 4 hours to fully warm up when I got home! Still, parts are en route, and with any luck I'll have a vehicle with an enclosed cabin and a heater again soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 (edited) They do look identical to the brake connections. Can you find this bulk line at any auto parts store? It's not something I've seen before, despite spending many hours in the local parts houses. See if this link works. Not sure if you have a Oreillys near but these popped up for 94 Pathfinder although some say domestic. http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Fuel+%26+Transmission+Lines+%28Steel%29/N2137/C0338.oap?model=Pathfinder&vi=1211971&year=1994&make=Nissan Edited October 26, 2012 by Trogdor636 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 26, 2012 Author Share Posted October 26, 2012 (edited) See if this link works. Not sure if you have a Oreillys near but these popped up for 94 Pathfinder although some say domestic. http://m.oreillyauto...994&make=Nissan I do have an oreilly's down the street. I found metric brake lines (Since the clutch system uses brake fluid) in M12 on there though. http://m.oreillyauto...un_jtt_redirect I'll give them a visit tomorrow. I still have one of the lines out on my truck (the one that runs from the dampner to the frame block) to verify. Does anyone know the size of the flares on our trucks off hand? Edited October 26, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 it does look different but I can't imagine how the torque converter would center itself... could be wrong, but I know there was one in my VG powered 200SX when i did the five speed swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Well, I know for sure my with my manual transmission there is a pilot bushing in the crank. I've replaced it twice. Once because it was bad (making noise when you pushed in clutch. especially on cold days) and second time just cause I was in there for throw out bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 ^x2 B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 it does look different but I can't imagine how the torque converter would center itself... could be wrong, but I know there was one in my VG powered 200SX when i did the five speed swap. Well I would guess if you could get the torque converter bolted up the flex plate, then it might not matter so much? Either way, I'm pretty sure that's a replacement engine, so whoever installed it probably didn't realize there is an AT version of a pilot bearing. I'm pretty certain I just don't have the AT one, since looking at Beastpath's pics, it looks the same as mine. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23822-starting-my-at-to-mt-swap/page__hl__swap__st__40 Either way, I have a new pilot bushing to put in there! Well, haven't had a chance to go check out the brake lines yet. Although I seem to remember using a 10mm on the line flares, and not 12 like what oreilly's is selling. O'wells. The flywheel will be here next Thursday, so hopefully the rear main seal and whatnot arrive prior to that so I can get this truck operational for the first time since July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 (edited) Well thought I'd post a quick update. Got the flywheel and my order from Alkorail in this week. However I recieved a new rear main bearing, and not a seal. I'm in the process of sending that back and getting the seal, but it looks like I may not have that until the end of this next week. I have other stuff to do on the truck, but I'm stuck on replacing the transmission until that seal arrives. The good news is the bearing cost the $60. The seal is less than $30. Edited November 4, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Hopefully the two can cross in the mail, not just tag team it? Even if there is a charge and reimburse? Just trying to keep things moving before the snow falls... Keep up the effort Harbie, you are nearing the finish line. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 Hopefully the two can cross in the mail, not just tag team it? Even if there is a charge and reimburse? Just trying to keep things moving before the snow falls... Keep up the effort Harbie, you are nearing the finish line. B Ha, I hope it's getting closer. I'm being blessed with 60-70 degree sunny days lately. My problem is all of my classes deciding to ramp up as the semester starts it's downward slope! I do need to run to the hardware store/junk yards and find some bolts to hold the clutch assembly to the fly wheel. Also noticed that the T-case uses a few different bolts with the MT's due to differences in the transmission sides. I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share Posted November 12, 2012 Well got my rear main seal this week. School is keeping me busy though as the temps have dropped down to an average of 30F. I'm looking for part time jobs too at the moment, so time is at a premium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hytekrednek Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 I know that is has been awhile since you last posted here but was wanting to know how everything went with your swap. I hope to do one myself this summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 My swap is still in progress. With school and the outside temps, it's finally warm enough to crawl under the truck again. Which is what I did today. Have the RMS removed and replaced in it's retainer, but am confused if I can just use RTV silicone or if I need to get a gasket like what was on there before. Also wondering if I should replace the rubber piece that fits under the RMS retainer and above the oil pan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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