Harbinger Posted October 11, 2012 Author Share Posted October 11, 2012 That means I'd have to start drinking canned beer! I think I am just going to cut it out though. I'll be launching into it tomorrow assuming I can get some homework done tonight! I did pick up some parts from a different scrap yard the other day. Pulled the interior shifter plate/gasket/shifter arm and a grey boot out of an 88 Pathfinder. Hoping all the parts will jive with me pulling parts from 87's and 88's to combine with a 98 transmission all for a 1995 truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Figure out if you are going to reuse any of the exhaust and then just cut it off. I drove my Pathy to the exhaust shop 3 miles away with just the headers on. It was loud, but not as obnoxious as some idiotic straight piped Hardly Ableson. You seem to have a lot of issues with rust and siezed bolts, so check out some of these options... https://www.go2socket.com/ http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8 http://community.craftsman.com/Craftsman-10-pc-Damaged-Bolt-Nut-Remover-Set-Low-Profile-Bolt-Out-reviews B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 I just ordered one of those 2 Go socket things. Will see if it's worth it! Well got some time to work on her today. Two cuts to the exhaust took a section out, so should be able to drop the tranny out now. Alsso got the tranny cooler lines out. Now it is time for dinner and beer, I'll pull the starter and start unbolting the trans from the motor tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share Posted October 14, 2012 (edited) Ran to the j/y again today. Got kicked out (forgot they close earlier on Saturdays!) but managed to grab a grey manual r50 console, black leather shift boot and both shifter knobs. Turns out I am getting a 5 speed swap + cupholders! mwa ha ha ha ha. Got home and had enough time to pull the starter out. Man was that thing greasy! I'm hoping that if I clean it up the oil filter relocation I did a few months ago will keep it that way! So on my t-bars. The right one is slightly bent, and has a wobble to it if you roll it on a level surface. Budget was dictating that I re-use my old ones but now I'm not so sure I should. Silly question, but what's the best way to rotate the crankshaft? Edited October 14, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 "Silly question, but what's the best way to rotate the crankshaft?" Socket on the crank bolt big ratchet or breaker bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Those torque converter bolts are a pain in the ass, and they are on there REALLY tight! FYI the crankshaft bolt socket size is a 27mm or 1 1/16" I believe. Good luck. There is also a plate that bolts to the engine block that kinda centers the starter. If you take that off it gives you a bigger area to access the TC bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 I just ordered one of those 2 Go socket things. Will see if it's worth it! Well got some time to work on her today. Two cuts to the exhaust took a section out, so should be able to drop the tranny out now. Alsso got the tranny cooler lines out. It should help a lot, the only weak part I can see is the thin wall section. Still if it only works 10 times, it's still probably worth it. I believe there is a wrench that uses the same idea with the handle as leverage. Nope, not made any more apparently. I have the gator grip socket and the craftsman sockets, they have turned bad scenarios into minor inconveniences several times. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Ran to the j/y again today. Got kicked out (forgot they close earlier on Saturdays!) but managed to grab a grey manual r50 console, black leather shift boot and both shifter knobs. Turns out I am getting a 5 speed swap + cupholders! mwa ha ha ha ha. Got home and had enough time to pull the starter out. Man was that thing greasy! I'm hoping that if I clean it up the oil filter relocation I did a few months ago will keep it that way! So on my t-bars. The right one is slightly bent, and has a wobble to it if you roll it on a level surface. Budget was dictating that I re-use my old ones but now I'm not so sure I should. Nice!! I used 2 cans of brake cleaner on mine (hint: Use a pan catching drips and overspray, then soak the starter in that, basting regularly. use the second can to flush and clean). It lasted another 4 years after that, and it looked like a refinery sump pump before I cleaned it. Are there any obvious impact marks or flaws around the bend? How high is the bend at it's apex and how far down the bar? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share Posted October 14, 2012 Today I ran back to the jy, grabbed a taures 3.8L e-fan for later and a few bits I meant to pick up yesterday, like a slave cylinder. Much like beastpath I cant get any of the lower hydraulic hardlines/rubber hose off the yard trucks. I'll be giving Rob a call anyway, but the parts list just keeps getting longer! Got the starter gusset out today, and also got the 4 bolts out of the torque converter. I've now got about half the bell housing bolts out, but I was beginning to fight with the top 3 so I gave up for the day and came in. I have homework to do anyway. =/ With any luck I'll be able to drop that tranny tomorrow. I'll take another look at the t-bar tommorrow B, and try and get those measurements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 Well, I got a few more bolts out of the bell housing today. I'm up to 8, so I'm hoping that is it! Some of those things are hard to get to! Well I e-mailed alkorail with a few q's, and he verified that the R50 and WD21 flywheels aren't the same. So who knows which clutch kit I'll need now. The R50 and WD21 do not share flywheels. All the D21, D21U and WD21 with a V6 do share the same part number for the flywheel. The R50 has two totally different numbers, not event he same series of numbers, as well as differnet engine sizes. Will it it fit? maybe I dont know. But they are all weighted differently for the different sized engines. With any luck I can have that transmission out tomorrow though! Will be waiting on parts after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 I recommend using a WD21 flywheel, with an R50 clutch kit from whatever year the transmission is from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 That's what I currently have. What I don't yet know is if the R50 clutch kit will work with the WD21 flywheel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 From what you posted earlier, the dimensions are the same, it's the load or force that is different. Personally, I'd go with all WD21 (VG30) components, flywheel and clutch parts unless you want to risk a stiffer clutch. You have a VG30, a VG30 flywheel, so VG30 clutch makes sense to me. The tranny is just a gear box and shouldn't care less. That's just how I would do it on my truck with the info you have given. B If you have both on hand, you could gamble with one, swap if necessary and return if possible. The good news is that to just swap the clutch on a manual, you don't have to pull the tranny and t-bars, just pull it back a bit so you can get in there. All the other bolts will be fresh too, so it's not as bad as you would think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 (edited) From what you posted earlier, the dimensions are the same, it's the load or force that is different. Personally, I'd go with all WD21 (VG30) components, flywheel and clutch parts unless you want to risk a stiffer clutch. You have a VG30, a VG30 flywheel, so VG30 clutch makes sense to me. The tranny is just a gear box and shouldn't care less. That's just how I would do it on my truck with the info you have given. B If you have both on hand, you could gamble with one, swap if necessary and return if possible. The good news is that to just swap the clutch on a manual, you don't have to pull the tranny and t-bars, just pull it back a bit so you can get in there. All the other bolts will be fresh too, so it's not as bad as you would think... Yeah, with what I'm seeing, I'll order the vg30 clutch kit and probably grab a spare release bearing from rock auto for the 98 tranny, just incase it is different on the tranny side. Am talking with alkorhrail about some other parts. Hoping to get rebuild kits for the clutch and slave cylinders, new boots for the shifters, the lower hydraulic lines/hoses and some parts for that r50 console from him. At this point all the bolts will be replaced! The ones coming from my transmission xmember certainly will be! Thoughts on sourcing a new rear main seal? Rock auto wants less than $6, and the nissan price is well, much much more. Does it make that big of a difference? Edited October 16, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Given the relative difficulty to access, I'd just go with a Nissan part. Then again, I haven't had the best of luck with rear main seals on my Pathfinder - see my post on NICOclub with pictures of my damaged RMS. I still am puzzled how the damage to the seal occurred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Given the relative difficulty to access, I'd just go with a Nissan part. Then again, I haven't had the best of luck with rear main seals on my Pathfinder - see my post on NICOclub with pictures of my damaged RMS. I still am puzzled how the damage to the seal occurred. Off-topic, sorry, but there has to be something up with the crank or some sort of debris in your oil for that kind of damage to occur, the only thing that seal does is keep the oil in, and it's not even under pressure.. on-topic, the clutch and flywheel should be the same size, just different clamping forces on the pressure plate. I'm running a Z31 turbo clutch and pressure plate on my 200SX SE-V6's flywheel, it supposedly has the strongest clamping force of all the VG30 clutches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 I don't know, my RMS was first replaced by Nissan at 1720 miles (!) so there is a possibility of something being wrong. Why it failed again I've no idea, the oil & filter has been serviced regularly throughout the vehicle's lifetime and my engine is spotless, with no oil consumption and all power valve screws are present and were tight when I applied red threadlocker. I guess if it goes bad again I'll know I have a deeper problem... enough OT from me though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 Eeek, well I'll be sure to be careful when replacing mine! Not sure the Nissan one is worth 10 times the price though...but we'll see how the budget ends up. In other news, THE AUTOTRAGIC IS OUT! Spent all day under the truck disconnecting things, grinding down rusted bolt heads, you know, the usual, but at the end of the day, the t-case and tranny are sitting outside the truck! Tomorrow I'll take off the t-case from the auto and return the auto for my core charge on the new tranny. Then I can hunt for a decent local machine shop for my flywheel and hopefully getting parts ordered soon. Now, time for beer and school work! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 (edited) Thought I would update with some pictures. This is where she currently sits. It's really empty under her now! Not a view I get everyday... Look Ma! 3 Pedals! While unbolting the old tranny's upper bell housing bolts, I found this. It wasn't mentioned by the previous owner or the carfax on my truck, so am not sure what to make of it. In other news, I have disconnected my t-case from the dead auto after a bit of grunting and prying. Today I returned my dead auto to the junkyard and was quite happy to get the core charge back! I placed orders today for redline mt-90 (9qts for the tranny/t-case/extra) and a pump to get it into the t-case after it's all installed again. Also placed an order @ rockauto for a wd21 clutch kit and a few other goodies. Will hopefully be ordering the cylinder rebuild kits, lower hydraulic system and hose from Alkhorail. I also ordered new t-case seals for the input and output shafts. Moving right along I suppose! Edited October 19, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Are you instagraming your truck on jackstands? That reman sticker is a little weird. So at 6 years old she got a heart transplant? Makes you wonder...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 (edited) Are you instagraming your truck on jackstands? That reman sticker is a little weird. So at 6 years old she got a heart transplant? Makes you wonder...... Ha, no instragram here. All those pics were taken on my dlsr and edited in lightroom. Yeah, it does make me wonder. There are two under-hood notes about the timing belt being replaced, but if I have a replacement engine, I don't know when it was installed. Makes me want to do a timing belt job sooner than later anyway! That metal reman'ed engine plate has a nissan and a ford logo on it it, but no other markings than what you can see in that pic. Edited October 19, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 So maybe it was a Nissan-Ford dealer install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 (edited) Good work, just keep at it before the weather gets nasty. Don't sweat it other than not letting the non-freeaing time slip by. (what the hell was I trying to say?) Ha, no instragram here. All those pics were taken on my dlsr and edited in lightroom. I like your photography and would like to talk about it. I'm also in the same place where I have far more to do than just that. Keep it going, we'll guide you when we can. B Edited October 20, 2012 by Precise1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 (edited) So maybe it was a Nissan-Ford dealer install? Would be my guess, but it is really generic so it could have been any ford/nissan dealer. *shrug* , seeing how it was changed out over a decade a go too, it might be hard to track down. I'll pull up my carfax later today after some homework and see if I can narrow it down. Good work, just keep at it before the weather gets nasty. Don't sweat it other than not letting the non-freeaing time slip by. I like your photography and would like to talk about it. I'm also in the same place where I have far more to do than just that. Keep it going, we'll guide you when we can. B Thanks B. Yeah, it is a push to get it all done before the weather turns sour. Already spent a morning or two working on the truck in the rain. Just waiting for parts now though, and then I can start bolting her back together. Damn good thing too. School is a 40 mile round trip twice a week, and if the snow hits I won't be taking my motorcycle anymore... I took a few cans of brake fluid and engine degreaser to the new tranny's bell housing yesterday. The 3.3 it used to be bolted to much have had a hell of a RMS leak. Happy to say mine doesn't appear to be leaking, but I haven't gotten assistance with removing the flywheel yet so I can't be 100%. Nissan wants 60 bucks for a new one so I'm hoping it looks so shiny and new as is that I won't want to change it. But will probably suck it up and do it anyway. Thanks for the kind words on the photography. All those pics were taken on my aging Canon rebel xt, with a tamron 17-50 f2.8 lens. Edited October 19, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Brake fluid? I hope you mean brake cleaner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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