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Harbinger's Automatic to Manual transmission swap.


Harbinger
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Can we no longer edit posts?

 

Anywho, didn't want to wait to order genuine parts (The local dealer here NEVER has anything in stock), so between two different parts houses I was able to find fel-pro gaskets for the rear main seal retainer and the rubber gasket that goes between the retainer and the oil pan. All surrounding a new nissan rear main seal, woot! Unfortunatley a piece of the old gasket fell into the oil pan, so I guess I'll be doing an oil change before I start her up again.

 

Just got those installed, will let the rtv dry overnight and hopefully get my flywheel & clutch installed tomorrow.

 

Forgot to update a few months back, but I also have new sway-away t-bars to install once the new transmission is in!

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^What that dude said.

You can edit immediately, but there is a time limit. Unfortunately, the ability was woefully abused by a few, and it was making a mess of things so we had to take steps.

 

Need something changed, just let me (or other staff) know.

 

B

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  • 1 month later...

Not sure where to start. Around last October of 2012, I successfully changed my 90 Pathfinder over to a Manual Transmission. Took me about three days to make the swap. Took much longer to work out all the bugs and fine tune my truck. What ever you do, if you are not sure if the timing belt is old or not, replace it before you drive it anymore. If it goes out, Like mine did soon after the swap, it will take out the entire engine and dimple the pistons. I took no chances and replaced the engine. stripped out about 8 inches of belt before it finally stopped rotating. It also bend every valve on the heads. I had bought used heads from eBay but learned that I was safer to replace the entire engine. $2000 later and I was back on the road. But the used engine had a bad head on timing side. Clogged oil port wore gear down. so warranteed the one side and paid mechanic $75 to do the other. now I have New timing belt, Water Pump, Thermostat, Radiator, and top end Gaskets. Runs very well.

Now, Back to the transmission. I had already bought parts off a junk truck from a junk yard way out in the country. First had to buy used auto hubs and couple other parts. My front axle was messed up and who ever had the truck didnt put it back together right. messed spline up. When I first bought the truck for $800, I knew it needed a transmission. Thought I had time to find one. Also didnt realize that any Nissan auto tranny of that year and some beyond with any high miles at all are junk. Even the rebuilds have a bad rep. Then a week after getting the axles replaced, the automatic transmission went out completely. No go at all. By this time I had contimplated buying that parts truck outright. So I made the call and the junk guy let me have it for $700 minus the $150 i had already paid for parts off it. Paid about $125 to haul it more miles than the wrecker driver I think realized he had to go. Once I knew I was getting the Parts truck, I wasted no time in unbolting the automatic from my Pathfinder, a real pain. First I tried to out witt my main mechanic and remove the transfer case without removing the torsion bars like he said I had to do. I did it, But it was a real Pain. This did however make it much easier to remove the transmission. By well into darkness, I had that disease out of my truck and from underneith it. Still have the transfercase in the garage too. The next morning i commenced to removing the bolts from the torque converter. this proved very difficult because the engine in my truck had once aready been replaced. They must not have put in a new timing belt. Some of the reason I goofed at assuming I had more time. Anyway, who ever put in the engine used the wrong sheild over the starter and the bottom of tranny. I couldnt get to the bolts but one way, throught the starter hole. Somehow got three bolts loose. Had to outsmart the last one and bend the hell out of the flywheel. this allowed the bolt to loosen and twist enough to get it out by hand. As soon as I got the parts truck Home the next day, I wasted no time in removing the Manual transmission. This time Knowing I did not have to put it back together, I removed the Torsion bars. Was quite easy really. The ones on my truck proved a bit more of a challenge. None the less, they came out too.

Now, for the details of what it will take to install the Manual into what was an automatic. Forgive me if I seem to jump around. It has been a few months now and I might get ahead of myself. Had to remove that weard steel bushing. I used a die grinder and ground that sucker right through the side of it. then lightly squeezed it together and came right out. I did knick the crank a little but was at and angle and did not mess with the seat where the new pilot shaft bearing would soon be. I had every part I needed because of the donor truck. So, to go it by buying random parts is a brave move. Will be something to be proud of really. The bolts on the stock MT flywheel are longer than the AT flywheel. Make sure as to not lose them. When reinstalling the transmission, I never seperated the transfer case from the tranny. If you get the right jack, and another person, you will be glad you did. there will be just enough room to do this. will actually have to get it up, slide back to get the splined shaft by the front cross beam, then slide forward to lift it up and clearthe rear beam. I did have to unbolt the Transmission bar. and once I got it up in the truck, I bolted it back to the tail of the transmission to help hold the rear of the tranny. This also for safety reasons. As you know, I aready installed the clutch assembly and was ready to go. Also had to severely clean all the old oil off from inside MT bell housing. While my rear main seal was dry, the donor engine had leaked from the rear main seal very badly. I would also recommend Installing a new Clutch assembly while you are at it. Although I did not. Money ran tight and my clutch disk did not look that old. I did however install a new disk when I replaced the engine soon after. And when removing the torsion bars, I had same problem trying to remove front three bolts in each side. I ended up not removing them and eventually slid the splined bars out of the front. Reinstalling was a bit of a pain, one side went good in front spline but the other, not so much. Had to hit it with a hammer but carfull not to mushroom the end of the torsion bar, or you will be in deep doo doo. When tightening the torsion bars back up, simply measure all wheel well bottoms to the floor on a level surface. At first I didnt dare go to far, but not long ago I realized that I had to go almost all the way up in order to pass alignment on my truck. Yours might be a little different. And if your tires are relaxed and both adustment bolts sill in same place when removed, should go right back in splines without the two sides being that much different. But by sticking the splines in front sockets first, we had to pry them down with a 2x4 on both sides and lock them in place as to not move back up. You could see them acually bow down. This wont hurt them at all and they will spring right back up once you install the rear cross member bracket adjuster. When the crossmember is slid back up into its designated slots, the torsion bars will be leveled out. I should also mention, you will need to use the weight of the tranny and transfercase to your advantage before reinstalling the torsions bars. letting the assembly hang will allow more room at the top of tranny to access tightening the transmission bolts. I also could not remove the transfer case shifter assembly, just let it flop around but had to menouver it in through the hole on the floor board. Wow, I forgot how much info and work it was. and the bracket that holds the shifter on the transfercase from the AT is not the same as the one on the MT, FYI.

See if I can skip around to a few things. Removing the console and AT shifter was a pain, but I just ripped it out. You will also need the adapter plate from a donor vehicle to be able to reinstall the standard shift assembly. As you know the clutch has to be added and as I founed out after installing the clutch, The AT Break Pedal is wider than with the MT. I did not remove the steering column. I removed the dash gauge assembly and took my burr grinder and made a hole in the plastic behind it. you will never see it when its reinstalled. But be sure as to not hit any wires. This gave me access to the upper two bolts that mounts the top of the clutch pedal. was not easy at all, had to use a universal knuckle. Also had to lightly tape the bolt to the socket as to not loose the bolt. Getting the socket back was a chore too. I managed. I also had to Ohm the Automatic transmission wires out too. Had to find two sets of wires. the back up lights, and the darn wires that told the truck it was not in park. they are the two heaviest of wires. splice them together and your truck will fire right up. cant remember the two other color wires for the reverse lights. Might can ohm them out, then remove the bulb and see if it stops beeping. Put it back in, if it beeps again, then you have it. But I shifted the transmission to find mine. had it backwards at first. The cable works backwards of what you would think while staring at the tranny by itself. Also had to just simply cut the wire harness from the auto tranny. So, when I found out what wires were what, just went to the truck and wired those colors in. The sending unit at the tranny shifter should be the one for the back up lights. When you find the color wires for the vehicles backup lights, just splice them into the other plug half you will steal from donor vehicle. Or, you can add your own disconnecting Plug assembly. As for the wires that tell you that its in 4 wheel drive, one transfer case sending units were different than the other and I had no idea how to remove them. so i cut and spliced the original plugs to the wires off the new one. worked real well. and had to ohm them out. Found out that the two sending unit switches work in series. it takes both of them in line to work. one is neutral and the other is 2 high. either one breaks, the light goes out. I do still have a gap in the carpet behind the shifter. Other than that, you will have to trim the carpet to fit it around bottom of MT shifter. Some said before to align the drive shafts up like they were to begin with. I didnt worry about that and have had no problems. As for the exhaust cross pipe, my bolts came out. just the one cross pipe had to be removed. When mechanic installed new engine, he had problems with the starter. turned out he needed the shim from the other motor. not sure if this is true because he tried to cheat me out of my warrantee and i do not use him anymore. He was not my main mechanic. My mechanic could not get to it. So, not sure if a shim was the problem or not. He first tried to tell me I needed a new starter. But had one at the house from donor truck. Good thing too, wasnt bad after all. He also did not replace the water pump like I requesed and a month later it came out of the housing. That is when he wouldnt warrantee it. Most decent mechanics will demand you put one in to cover the risk factor and better support a warrantee. Think this moron wanted to trap me into having to pay him to replace it or void warrantee. I went to a different mechanic closer to the house and paid $100 less and he was a higher paid mechanic. My main mechanic was even cheaper but I couldnt risk a ticket dragging it across town. Word of mouth is so wonderfull too, lol. Not long ago I put my thermostat in myself. I also recently put new shocks on and tires, but have had to replace both outer tie rod ends and all 4 ball joints. There isnt much left on my truck that I havent replaced. Put new rear brakes on. front good for now. If your Ebrake is not holding well, you can adjust the cable but it is more efficient to adjust the rear brake manually. This resets the brake handle more than you will realize. Oh, and my A/C quit last week. You will not believe how easy it was on my 90 model to remove the entire housing to the evap coil. Undo the two ac lines, Two bolts on bottom and a nut on top, unplug two plugs and its out. Unclip the housing and simply replace the expansion valve. also replaced the dryer. And it is very important to make sure you have the bottom part of the fan shroud in place. If you do not have enough air flow across the condenser coil, you can over pressure the high side and blow the pop off valve on top of the compressor. Nissan does not sell the pop off by itself. Mine failed completely. Priced ones from compressor repair places and would have been about $100 to order it. Also has to hold 200 to 350 psi. Just went to a you pull it and brought home 5 of them cheap. My main mechanic tells me that a bad fan or fan clutch as well as a clogged expansion valve are the two main things that can blow a pop off valve. Claims the dryer wont. Also, My truck was already converted to 123A freon. But found out a day later that if you replace the dryer, you need to add from 2 ot 4 onces of oil back in the system. the compressor holds some but most of it is in the dryer. Also replaced my windshield, Installed an overhead dvd player and then replaced the old pioneer supertuner 3 with a little newer super tuner 3D. very nice. Plays MP3 home made disks. Holds enough songs on one disk the easily replaces the old school cd changers. Has inputs in the back but need adapter cable. Found one on eBay. Also have to manually turn on the Auxilary 2 rear port by first turning off the stereo, pressing the multi button and then scrolling to aux 2 On, Off.
The operations manual wasnt so clear on this. Was when I followed the directions of setting the clock when I discovered my error. Was trying to turn on the aux 2 while system was still on. Has a 1/8 jack in front for aux 1 which is on by default. Aux 2 is left and right RCA jacks. Dvd Sounds great in that truck. Not sure how many speakers they come with from the factory, but my truck had six crappy speakers. One in each door and two in back. I have since replced all the door speakers. The rear speakers were recently replaced it would seem. The rear doors and the ones in back are hooked to the rear channel. Really thumps with a dvd playing. My Dvd does have wireless to tuner input on select channels, but it is much faster to just go from tuner, to Cd, to Aux 1 then 2. Clearer sound most times too. The only thing that doesnt work is the cruise. Did one time then not anymore. could be the switch, might be the stuff under the hood. Any idea's, let me know. not too worried about it though.

Not sure what else to add. I will check back to see if you have any questions. Your rpm will be around 3500 at 70 mph in 5th gear too. Not sure if the rear ends are different gear ratios or what. But some say this is normal. I am getting around 14.5 mpg. Oh, and if you change the oil in your Pathfinder, they do not hold the usual amount as most engines. Its more like 3.25 quarts or something. Just fill it to the right level with your 4th quart and stop when its says full. then you will know. The moron that replaced my engine said it holds 5 quarts and it was way over full. Acually bogged down the motor a little. The crank hits the oil and puts resistance on it.

But, the job can be done and I have successfully converted to a standard shift from a problematic transmission. Like a small tank. Fun off road. So narrow that I have gone down 4 wheeler trails. But, there are its limits. Come to a row of pallets and you have gone too far. The truck weighs in at over 3500 lbs. very heavy for a small suv. I wouldnt have done it without first buying a donor vehicle. There are things you have yet to realize you need otherwise. But, not impossible.

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Damn, you have had a lot of issues and I'm glad to see you busted threw them!

 

I did the swap about a year ago now, I'm curious what you did with the mess of wires that when down to the auto trans (the shifter cable is linked to it) cause I was the idiot who saw all these wires and said Screw it, cutcutcut. Flipping nightmare! Paid a mechanic 70$ to figure it out (ironically I'm an electrician)

 

Other than that it went smoothly, surprisingly. Fly wheel was no issue, clutch install, a pain! All my alarm system wires went in and out threw the hole, so in short, bye bye keyless entry. What did you do with your brake pedel? I ended up taking a sawzall to it.

 

I didn't take the Tcase off of either tranny, regret doing that.. Manual trans has no 4lo. The donor truck came from an ex gf, her timing belt went so I bought it for 500$, took everything I needed plus rear tinted window, gas cover (had to pry my old one open everytime I went to fill up), centre conceal, skid plate, 2 brand new headlights! (Her Xmas present 5 weeks before), cadilac converter! (Gave it to my friend for helping me, they are worth good money), head rest for my rear seats, gave the tires to my friend as well for his Mazda 2200, new front rotors (haven't been installed yet and I will be throwing these up on Craigslist soon) and plus every flipping fuse, relay, extra bolts and nuts I could steel without the thing falling apart! Then scrapped it for 300$ without to old auto trans. 200$ for all those parts!

 

I'm not sure how you will feel about this, I recommend this swap to anyone who is good around cars. But I am going to shoot a couple warnings out there!

 

-don't cut any wires and label before you do so!!

-don't scrap the donor before your done (had to make an unnessary trip to the wreckers for a transmission cross member)

-do your research before had, read a couple threads if you have too and make notes!

-Now of you don't want to do this and or you love your auto trans, install a transmission cooler!! My auto was replaced then 5 months later it went again.

-if you never drove a standard before just remember this... The first time I ever drove a standard was the first test drive of my truck with the new trans!! It took about 10 minutes and I wasn't grinding or stalling anymore.

 

I know I kinda went off on my own swap here but from what I have read in the thread you touch based on a lot of good issues. Another thing I did aswell is got rid of that flipping front tow hook! Useless, but I recommend buying a u bolt (or whatever they are called) you have 2 tow points front and rear besides the hook. If I knew at the time I would have bought manual hubs, for mile markers 136$ new (or 250-300$ for warn) its worth it, and currently they are in the mail!

 

Pathfinders are tanks! (Like you have said) but with the auto trans it's like an athlete with a bummed knee! Thanks for reading and I hope this helps anyone who desides to do this swap, plus the tons of other info in the thread!

 

Sincerely; 95 pathfinder with an 94 transmission

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It kept digging in the dirt/mud when offroading, but for most tow outs, those loops are more than efficient. Now don't get me wrong I didn't throw it out, it in the back along with the bolts and my socket set

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I cut the auto transmission wires just outside of the transmission. leaving about six or so inches sticking out. Always leave more wires on the truck and not on the junk tranny. But leave enough to ohm out. I identified the exact wires needed with a meter. then went to the truck and crawled under there and wire nutted the two thickest wired together and it fired up. then identified the backup light wires, then cut the plug off donor truck and butt spliced it onto my truck and plugged it in. None of the other wires were of any use and just taped the hell out of them. That remindes me, how do you make holy water? You beat the hell out of it. But the wired are still under the truck in same spot. One day may trace out and rerout the park neutral wires I spliced to gether to fool the computer to thinking im driving around in park and install a hidden switch and use it like an antitheft device. Or, tie it into the clutch pedal. Who knows.

As for the computer, I am running on the same one that the standard shift was on from the donor vehicle. But was first on the original automatic transmission computer and it made no difference. Just simply left it in there after. they seem to be the same. This was part of my trouble shooting when it wouldnt fire off and had to end up splicing park wires together. Ohmed them all out at the junk automatic tranny. And Im an electrician too. We all have our days.

So, you are saying that your manual transfercase doesnt have low range? I have my other one here that does. But I bet your not willing to drive to Mobile Alabama, lol. Low range is so needed. Are you sure you did not install a full time high range tranfer case? If Im following right. And my alarm system does not work nor am i needing it. I stripped my donor truck too just before I scrapped it. rear window with working defrost, swapped seats, Stearing wheel was better too. Step bars. even kept that tow hook. I can see a use for it here. Have an extra hitch receiver too. saved the alternator, starter, ac compressor and such. Think I included that in my original post. Even the grill. Also swapped the step up bars too. My truck is a 90, the donor was a 92. My step bar was three mounts and the 92 was only two mounts. Simply skipped the center mounts. Think this means that the ones from the 92 are thicker and no longer needed the center mounts from the frame. And I never noticed the cross member on the transmissions were different because I never removed it from the standard shift. And never marked my drive shafts or the torsion bars. Everything went back fine.

Yes, the auto transmissions in these trucks are junk. especially high mileage used ones. If I had known that I would not have bought the Pathfinder. Not that one. But, already had $400 into the two front axles when the transmission went out. Then had much more in it when the timing belt went. I now have around $5000 in this truck, but I have replaced almost everything in it. I know now what I have and when I need to do sceduled maintenance. I could go buy a truck right now for $5000 cash money and still in a short time have at least one of these same major problems happen. I am thinking that the two differentials are a slight bit lower in the automatic trucks than in the standard shift. Hard to tell. Didnt have the auto on the road long and still going in overdrive before it went out totally. But I seem to remember at 70 mph the auto was at a lower rpm than 5th on the manual. But like I read on another old post, When it comes to a 4x4 with low range, creating a custom slightly lower range truck can be an advantage. Not sure of this but I really do think its a bit lower than It was.

Not sure how clear my first post was, but the heads I had bought for the first engine when the timing belt stripped out, I used them on this new used engine. One of my biggest pet peaves is the darn head gaskets going out. So I am so glad that the very strong and smooth engine had bad heads. Made my purchase worth while and now I have new head gaskets. Thing shifts like a much bigger truck too. Very firm and stiff shifting. Not like a car. Shifts like a one ton. I dont dare speed shift it. not going to push my luck unless my clutch goes out and have to start it in gear and then I will speed shift it. Done it before with a car or two. Stop at a light, kill the engine. Leave in gear, start it and roll on down the road and shift with the rpms.

well, If for some strange reason you decide you want low range, if I read it right, Got one here that came off the automatic. But It weighs in at around 200 plus. Do you even have a second shift lever?

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Oh, and just to add as a safety measure. For all you shade tree mechanics who are one step ahead of yourself, Make sure you have the front end frame between the front wheels up on jack stands. If your under the truck with full weight on the front tires, you will lower the truck right ontop of you. I can see how easy this would be if one does not have proper understanding of how the torsion bars work. I think I read such in a post before I did mine and it kept my attention on the mechanics of the front suspention torsion bars. I also recomend an alignment after completion of the tranny swap. The torsion bars cause your top front wheels to move inward the higher you go.

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Its rather funny, these trucks were at a better value with the special ordered automatic transmissions in their day. Now If you have a pathfinder with a 5 speed manual transmission, you have something worth buying. Just wish they automatically swapped themselves. And, If your thinking of paying someone to do a job like this from scratch, especially if you plan to just drop off the donor truck too, I would be willing to bet you would pay over $3000 just in labor. Not to mention any parts they will claim you need to buy to finish the job right. I did it myself and still have to buy several hundred in parts. Not to mention the donor vehicle itself. My main mechanic wouldnt touch it outside of time and material. Didnt understand why at the time, but I do trust that one. Now I know. Gives me the willies to just read these posts and so glad im at the fun stage now. But got there not long ago with all I had to do with it. I now have full confidence in my 90 Pathfinder truck. Its a beast.

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I like that idea with the anti thief device, it isn't a bad idea. I got frustrated especially being on a 9pm - 6am shift, made working on my truck hard, took me 2 weeks to complete.

 

It would be nice to have low gears (yes it's shifted) but I'm doing a 4bt swap in 4 months!! Currently 4wd doesn't work (tested it out and it is the auto hubs) so manual hubs are in the mail, even though along with the 4bt swap will be a solid axle swap, for 136$ I'm not complaining plus I'm going to resell them from 50 to 80$ if I don't reck them lol

 

The auto crossmember is bent back (if I remember correctly) and the standard is straight, about 3-4 inch difference. That was a piss off moment, one of the last things to go on!

 

The reason for my swap (basically put so much money into, about the same as yours, ill drive it until it does!) is Canadian tire bent me over and f'ed me in the ass dry, let me explain: so coming off the highway my car died, like a stall, and would not fire up at all. To called bcaa and they towed it to ct to figure it out. I got a call and it ended up being a short in my fuel pump so they went on about how it's a safety hazard and you shouldn't drive so basically four played me into getting it replaced, they did warn me about the bolts on the gas tank... Even though there is an access hatch in the rear to do the fuel pump! But they only snapped one bolt, yes one bolt, they "had to" replace the whole gas tank basically rammed their dumb high school student who did the works head up my rear end and charged me 500$ for a new gas tank, total cost: just under 1800.. I recommend You never go to ct for anything besides oil and tires period.

 

Btw my tac. Has never worked, I shift at 20 40 60 and 90 lol

 

I have a very small leak at the gasket but not worth it since, well the swap in a couple months, but I have a major leak under my right foot that made a nice sized hole, welding and exhaust puddy somewhat fixed it, still a leak, and some duct tape fixed the hole (temporary I must say) that included the gap in the shifter plate!

 

The reason I am so keen on keeping this pathy and encouraged to do the swap is the amount of rust, spots on the body yes, in the usual spots (bottom corners rear door, back corners, and bubbling about the rear wheels) but the frame.. Someone rubber coated it in the early days! Surface rust just behind the rear wheel but nothing a grinder can't get rid of. I used a jack to test my 4wd a couple weeks ago and scrapped off some of the rubber (about a jack worth), nothing but shinnie metal underneath!!

 

I am glad it's done and over with and I hope not to do it again, but I would if I have too. A guy quoted me 2000 min. In labour to do it, plus the 500 donor truck. I gave me friend tires and the cc plus beer for guidance. But now I know I can beat it up! And so far so stock, it's a champ! Beating lifted jeeps up hills and getting out of the mud, all in 2wd! Can't wait for the manual hubs.

 

Btw I am a satanist! Hail satan! (Not really but I'm a metal head \m/, )

Edited by cvdloc
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I had the same problem with auto hubs, in my case it was the end of the axle that was stripped out. some idiot didnt put the retainer clip in the right grove and it did not seat in all the way. But my Mechanic says that most people dont use 4 wheel drive enough and that most times the hubs are just stuck. need taking off and cleaning. I have had mine off since in order to rotate the front drive axle on jacks. I accidently activated the hub by had while undoing the front drive shaft. It was that sensitive. In order to get to all 4 bolts again, I had to undo one of the hubs. If you did this, Just take it off in one piece, You would be able to spray it with lube and re grease a little. Break up the grease. Make sure your transfercase is engaging too. auto hubs are great for me. But if you get stuck, and have to rock back and forth, sometimes they stay in, but most times they will come out and go back in again. So there is one advantage to manual hubs right there. Save your auto hubs, dont toss them.

What is 4bt swap? I like my cv axles in front simply for the added clearance. I have had a 4 wheel drive hang up and that big ole pumkin of a differential housing. And if you like it climbing hills in 2 wheel drive, wait till you go 4 wheel drive. But hill climbing is best in low range. go much slower as to not bust and axle or over stress the engine or clutch.

If you came far enough south, you could have found a really cheap Pathfinder in nice shape, no rust, whith auto junk tranny and made the swap. Be a hell of a wrecker fee to Canada though.

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Yeah I have taken them off, did what you did and still won't engage, plus I don't like the idea of them going in and out of gear, especially if your stuck. I am saving the hubs until I absolutely don't need them. In case the manuals go I will have a back up pair.

 

Well I was thinking about upgrading to a v8 but the torque and power I can have with the 4bt is more ideal for me, plus I love diesels lol why not right, cummins powered pathfinder (pathdestroyer). I want to be able to do a 6+ inch lift. I am moving the rear axle back and now thinking about moving the front axle forward aka more lift, I can cut the fenders out and ill be able to get the front driveshaft angle juuuust right. The transmission and tcase will sit farther back (rumour has it about 2") then slapping 37's on there, maybe a small body lift too 1-2"

 

Personally I hate the ifs, you can't really lift them (at lease what I'm going for) I heard you can slap the RR 3" lift with the TM 4" lift (not avalible anymore) but I also heard they are pron to problems. And about the higher clearance, that's only in the front, sure you can make it over a big rock but your rear is straight, it would just hit the rear not your front, correct me if I'm wrong, I'm going under theory here lol.

 

But yet I am still not sure if I want to do the swap to this pathfinder, I might look into a 2 door or a hardbody. But if the timing belt goes or anything major, I'm doing the swap to my 95. If not, well we will see then. Currently I'm doing my research and looking for a delivery van donor! And if your wondering this project is a treat for myself, purely offroading truck (it would be nice to drive it on the road to and from but I doubt it will pas inspection) money isn't an issue

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Oh, and my fuel gauge didnt work for the longest time. Almost looked under the back rug when I did all that work to it. Thought I had to lower the gas tank to change the sending unit in the tank. Then, a few days ago I was searching these posts and saw that someone posted that there was an access plate under the rug to the sending unit on top of the gas tank. Well, while I was at the you pull it place yesterday, I decided to tare into there truck instead of mine to see if this was true. And low and behold, there it was. But, that truck was a 95 Pathfinder. So I decided to remove the sending unit anyway. After it all came out quite easily, I called my local Orileys and asked if the fuel pumps on a 1990 and 1995 were the same. They said they were. So I brought it to the check out and they charged me only $21 for it. Took it home, accessed mine and made the swap. Worked like a charm. And case anyone else has had the same problem. My gauge would show full or there abouts when full, but a few miles down the road and it would show 3/4. then after a day it would show 1/2. By the time it was 1/8 it was near correct. By the time it said empty, I would have about 4 gallons of gas left. When I Observed the two units, it would seem the on I took out of my truck was burned or coated from sitting too long. Maybe corroded or laquered up bad. Now I will probably get into a wreck because im so fascinated that my fuel gage works I spend all my time staring at it driving down the road waiting for it to be incorrect. The simple things that make the difference.

And the last time I had a vehicle that had an access plate like this was my first car I ever had. 1980 Toyota Corrolla Lift back. One of my biggest pet peaves, A fuel gauge that does not work.

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Lol there you go that would have saved me huge money! But I have some crappy news... Last night while I was camping I had the pathy parked on the road, and some idiot rammed into the back and took off!! The whole rear end is cocked! I know they are going to call it a write off I do have collision, so ill see what they can do, but the 95 project is now down the drain :( I'm going to keep it, still runs like a champ! Nothing wrong with the drive train, I'm just going to turn it into a bush truck lol

 

Currently in the market for a hardbody now! Looked at one earlier looks and runs well, few if and buts but I am doing my research, frame is mint, no rust, it does have 400+ km on it! Maybe ill do my 4bt swap in that! Owell, sh!t happens

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  • 1 month later...

Holy posts batman!

 

Finally got some time to crawl under the rig again. Have the rear engine plates installed. Also cleaned the tranny and the t-case and got them mated with fresh black rtv silicone. Have installed the shifters, but think I'll take out the 5spd shifter and acquire a new bushing for it.

 

My present problem is with installing the flywheel. It is a brand new Sachs unit, and I don't have flywheel specific bolts. Just the same 6 that held the AT "flywheel". They are way short. When placed through the new flywheel, they have maybe 3 threads exposed.

 

So I'm going to look into finding some longer M10x1.0 bolts for the flywheel locally, but the local stealer wants nearly 7 bucks per bolt. I'd order some from Rob but I'm growing impatient and want my truck back!

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The local fastner place was closed by the time I got off work today. I'll try again tomorrow.

 

Also, that 42 bucks is nearly my entire net worth at the moment. Luckily the local place is known for giving me free bolts, due to the small quanities I require!

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Good call Adam. Thanks!

 

Sadly this will have to wait till Monday, unless I decided to go the stealer route. Every. Single. Fastener shop that carries 10.9 M10x1.0 bolts are closed on the weekend.

 

Being in America, I already know my local hardware stores don't carry that great of a metric selection....damnit. EDIT - Well I take that back, but the highest grade I can find is 8.8.

Edited by Harbinger
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Well, finally found a shop in town that had 10.9 bolts in stock. They shortest they had was 40mm, so I cut them down to 30mm this morning.

 

Got my pilot bushing hammered into place with a socket. It looks like it could move back a few mm's, but it wasn't budging any farther? It has cleared the conical imprint in the crank so I'm hoping it will suffice.

 

Then installed my flywheel and got it locktighted and torqued. Will get to the clutch this weekend!

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