fenderworks Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 newby, here. how can i run 33's on my stock nissan 93 pathfinder? What does it take? I have 31's now and there are no problems. fenderworks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beavis0076 Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 a lift. 6 inches... most do 3 body and 3 suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 newby, here. how can i run 33's on my stock nissan 93 pathfinder? What does it take? I have 31's now and there are no problems. fenderworks Try the search feature on here too, do some research, then ask away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 why go 33s when you can run 35's? Just SAS it...I know just the man that can hook you up with parts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismojunky Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 why go 33s when you can run 35's? Just SAS it...I know just the man that can hook you up with parts... lol when are you going to do a sas and yes 3" body lift and 3" sus lift and you can fit 33's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 When I have about $5K laying around which is going to be a LONG time...it only took me 9 years to get a BL and SL on it...probably another year or so before I upgrade to 33's damn all this paying for college and a new car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderworks Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share Posted May 15, 2009 Well, re: wanting to run 33's i am not looking for a body lift. looking for suspension lift or keep it stock and cut out everything. what do you all think fenderworks 93 pathfinder xe, 31's, Lsd, wanting to run 33's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 You can do anything with enough money, time, and perseverance. Put a suspension lift on it, and cut the crap out of the fenders. The most suspension lift you can get is 3", which is not enough without some body work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 what's the deal with not wanting a BL? its better than a SL IMO b/c it keeps the CG lower than the 3" from a SL b/c you only lift the body and keep the high mass items closer to the ground You can get 6" of suspension lift but it requires a trail master kit and cranking the Tbars IIRC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 Sawsall makes it all possible....But realize you will have almost no front fender left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 You want to keep it stock and fit 33"s? Get out the sawzall and BFH, otherwise easiest way is 3"sus/3"body. Don't know what your disliek with body lift is, but hey to each his own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super6turbo4 Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 Here you go. 33s with no body lift. Just suspension lift and trimmed fenders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 what UCA's are you running? (if any) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 what UCA's are you running? (if any, aftermarket) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super6turbo4 Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 what UCA's are you running? (if any, aftermarket) I'm guessing that was directed toward me. I bought some AC UCAs used. If I had spent real money on them I would be pissed. The fabrication sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 Here you go. 33s with no body lift. Just suspension lift and trimmed fenders. Any better pics of the rear chop? I guess this is the hardest with the rear doors being so close. Cheers, Scotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super6turbo4 Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 Any better pics of the rear chop? I guess this is the hardest with the rear doors being so close. Cheers, Scotty Since the axle moves in a rearward arc you only have to trim the rear of the wheel opening. The only time a tire has hit near the door was when I bent a lower control arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 Any better pics of the rear chop? I guess this is the hardest with the rear doors being so close. Cheers, Scotty I too would like to see some nice side on picks too, please. Both the front and back guards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super6turbo4 Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 All the pics I have are here. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18427 I will try to get a few more this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkestskydiver Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 http://s606.photobucket.com/albums/tt148/darkestskydiver/ here's some pics of my pathy i put 33 12.5 15 with 4 in bs removed my fender flares and mud flaps. in pics my rear flares are still on. i am running 78 f250 front coils in the rear and the front is just cranked for now.. i have yet to have any issues other than my tire's hitting the mud flaps and fender flares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathmaker1 Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 (edited) i ran TRUE 34's with no BL and about 1" of fender trimming. heres my old setup: Rough Country UCA's 1/2" BJ spacers S.A.W tbars cranked HOOHAA CL(www.grassroots4x4.com) Calmini IAB REAR: Jeep Grand Cherokee coils with 1" coil spacer in them. all sway bars removed stock "lego" rims 34X10.5X15 LTB's(TRUE 34" tall tire as well while a 33" BFG is only 32.6" tall) my setup only rubbed my rear passenger frame rail. this could have been corrected with a panhard bar dropdown bracket to relocate the rear axle to its original position. i never dropped my panhard bar. my rear axle was about 1.5" to the drivers side. i had absolutely no fender rub even on full stuff. PICS: before trimming: after trimming: after sealing up the rear fenders and the hurculiner: proof that it stuffed and flexed its ass off: more pics of the hurculiner and fender trimming here: http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r207/gm...pics/?start=all YOU DO NOT NEED A BL TO RUN 33's OR EVEN 34's!!!!!!! most people say its "required" or as it goes on this board 3+3=33's. a BL will not necessarily make things easier but if your not afraid of a little trimming then all you need is the above. with the setup i ran i could have run 35's with a small BL. BL are a PITA anything more than 1.5". you will need to mess with the shifters, intake, steering, hoses, etc. much easier to bust out a sawzall and go to town!!!!! Edited May 20, 2009 by pathmaker1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathmaker1 Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 (edited) a Body lift CHANGES the COG whereas a SL RAISES the COG and thats why i dont like them. changing an engineered COG is by far worse than just raising it which keeps the engineers design true and correct. not to mention body roll is much worse with a BL versus a SL. Edited May 20, 2009 by pathmaker1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 It's been said before that you don't need a BL to fit 33s if you want to trim the fenders. Some people don't want to trim their fenders, so their option is a 3+3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 a Body lift CHANGES the COG whereas a SL RAISES the COG and thats why i dont like them. changing an engineered COG is by far worse than just raising it which keeps the engineers design true and correct. not to mention body roll is much worse with a BL versus a SL. On the flip side, a SL puts your CVs and tie rods at terrible angles, where as a BL leaves them stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathmaker1 Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 On the flip side, a SL puts your CVs and tie rods at terrible angles, where as a BL leaves them stock. and that is the reason for aftermarket UCA's, BJ spacers, and a CL. my CV's would be ok if i wheeled with any sense. i tend to break 1 about every trip or 2. the 80+ pounds of tire/wheel on each corner and the fact that i wheel the piss outta my rig kills the CV's(i tend to get the front airbourne a lot). my hoohaa CL and my TRE's are still in great shape after 1.5 years of wheelin it with those tires/rims. im confident if i was running radial 33's, aluminum rims and i cared about body damage my CV's would last a good while. also to help the CV's last longer Manual hubs shoud be installed. i know the auto hubs are free running but i have heard of them staying locked in 2wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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