darkestskydiver

so i have all the components put back in my pathy. my question is before i take it down to the shop can i test the system for leaks with compresed air?? i just dont want to take my pathy down and have to pay some rediculus amout of $$$$ to have them tell me there's a leak.

that's prob the route i'm gonna take. all the auto stores i have looked at only sell the pully. i need the whole assembly. bracket and all.

i am also having this issue. but i cannot find a new one. is this a junk yard only item or can i get a new one somewhere??

well just an update. me and my buddy lined up the steering wheel adjusted the toe, and that solved the camber problem. when i get my new uca's i'll take it in and get it aligned.

my 92 did something close to this a little while ago. for me it ended up being a loose connection on one of the plugs right off the battery. also to rule out spark as the culprit. spray some starter fluid in the intake and see if you get a sputter.

glad i saw this thread, i have a similar issue as well alltho my guage never moves off of cold. unless it's summer time and i idle alot.

i agree 100% with you. also when i got home i looked at my uca's and the passenger side has what looked like only 1 shim in it did not see anything behind that. and the drivers side has no shims at all. i did not want to take it in and get it alligned untill i got the rc uca's but if i cant get them for a while i guess i'll have to waste the money for now. this just sucks i put the new parts on to fix it and it made it worse

yeah she's already giving me crap cause she can't drive it right now. this is gonna be next

i'll look at it when i get home, i do not remember for sure but i don't believe i had any shims behind the uca's.

Ok so here’s what’s going on. My 92 pathy was doing a lil wandering while driving. Upon further inspection I found that the upper ball joints to be sloppy and my driver-side outer tie rod was toast. So I head down to the parts store and buy 2 upper ball joints, and inner and outer tie rods for both sides. Got all that replaced and now I have an excessive amount of positive camber. I do not understand this . All I did was replace the ball joints. The tie rods should not have an effect on the camber. Any help would be appreciated. Also just to see if maybe I had the t bars cranked a lil to much I measured from the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender and I got 6 inches. I dropped the front end down 2 ½ inches, just to see what the result would be. It helped out a lil but I still have positive camber issues. Need to get this rig road worthy again. It’s my wife’s ride and she needs it.

wow actually another person who lives in reno. where do you go wheeling????? i like messing around on the hlt

i would check under the dizzy cap water likes to hide there.

yeah i believe that's the one. we decided to just get the 86 hardbody running instead. it has the same motor in it but it is carbed instead of the mpfi like the other one. i read the codes on the stanza and it tripped every code the book listed but two lots of stuff needs replacing on it. but thanks for looking.

so i also have an 86 nissan stanza 4wd wagon, i can get it to start on occasions but it will barley idle and is super rough. if you unplug the exhaust coil while at idle there is no difference nothing happens checked voltage at coil and it's good, swaped out coils for a good one and still same thing. if you try and hit the gas it's almost like it is getting too much fuel wot and it barely gets over 1k rpms. it ran good a couple of weeks earlier, then one day nothing. i have been messing with it for a while now checking everything i could think of to no avail. anyone got ne ideas??????? i'm stumped. it has spark and fuel???? i'm hoping some of yall in here might have some experience with these engines. funky little things with 8 spark plugs.

i have a 90 pathy running 33's, stock pipes with a flowmaster and a k&n cone filter. i do not drive on the highway just around town and off road. i average around 280 a tank and have managed to sqeeze out an amazing 325 on one tank. but when i do travel i usualy can get aroun 300 per tank on the highway. :02:

http://s606.photobucket.com/albums/tt148/darkestskydiver/ here's some pics of my pathy i put 33 12.5 15 with 4 in bs removed my fender flares and mud flaps. in pics my rear flares are still on. i am running 78 f250 front coils in the rear and the front is just cranked for now.. i have yet to have any issues other than my tire's hitting the mud flaps and fender flares.

http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthread.ph...4186&page=5 this guy swaped a cummings into his 4 runner lots of pics.

another question for you guy's.... when i'm wheeling i will usually keep it in 2wd till i need 4wd if i put it in 4w hi in order to go up an incline i have to put it in first and even then it struggles. on any hill where there is any kind of loamy dirt or whoops i have to put it in 4 low and 1st otherwise i get stuck, and have to back down, if i put it in 4 low and second it does ok till i hit an incline and starts to bog and forces me to go back into 4 low 1st. is this common or could there be somthing wrong with my engine? i have replaced all the tune up items with all new, and adjusted the timing. it runs so much better now, but it's still being stubborn? any ideas?? i know our little pathys are underpowered but this seems a little rediculus. thank you.

thanx for all the info tha swap over i'm not to concerned about i have done it befor on another vehicle i owned with great success. quote- '' that at 100km/h (60 miles/h) my 1991 was reving at 3000rpm in 5th gear'' i don't even use 5th gear right now cause it's too loud, trans has the bearing prob related to the low oil capacity. that's why i will be replacing it. again thanx for the input i'll do some more research befor i decide.

i currently have a manual trans that is going out and i will be replacing it soon, i have had auto 4x4s before and had no issues. my question to all who have had both is, wich one do you prefere? with the lift and bigger tires would it be better to stay with the manual? does the bigger tires cause any issues with the auto's? thanx to all who reply.

in my experiences with pulling engines, i have alway's had to disconect the torqe converter from the flex plate, otherwise you'll never get the engine out. put a jack under the trany so you can lift it a little bit, then pull the engine out. it helps if the hood is off but not totally needed, you can just push the hood back as far as it will go and prop it up. hope this helps. and good luck.

Part Number: 95104 Weight: 0.45 lbs Notes: Interference engine application Pitch Length: 49.89 Top Width: 0.99 Number Of Teeth: 133 Interference Engine: YES

welcome. not really you neck of the woods but still in the same state. i'm in reno, nv

got an update for yall. while messing around with my pathy this weekend out on the trails i noticed my temp guage started climbing, turns out that my fan was keeping it to cool and it would not register on my guage( i have the e fan mod done) i always ran my fan on low speed, have not had the time to put in a temp switch on it yet so i just run it on low, but i do suspect that it would not have worked if i had not got the volt reg replaced cause it was not working befor i did the e fan mod. just thought i would let everyone know i feel like and idiot tho, prob was right in front of me