BoneZ Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 (edited) I want to know if anyone can tell me what I have to do to fit 33-13 tires they would be on 17" rims, going on a 91 4 door pathfinder. The tires i want to run are the IROKs. Also what back spacing would be needed. Can I fit them with a 3"sl and a 3"bl and some trimming or would I have to do more. If anyone can let me know it would be very helpful I am getting ready to build this rig for trail runs. I normally wheel my 2001 dodge ram but It is to big to fit in some of the trails out here in Oregon, not that I cant get it in there but they do not allow rigs over a certain width in them. So I thought a pathfinder would be a nice trail rig, Hope someone can help answer this for me thanks. Edited October 25, 2008 by BoneZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 I think the fronts would be your biggest concern with 13" thats a wide pice of rubber swinging arround, depending on your backspacing they may stil hit your doors after extensive trimming and if you move too far inward then there may be frame rub but if you get it just right and ajust your steering stoppers so you don't turn as far you might make it work. This is all speculation btw, maybe somone with 33x10-12's can tell you better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 check out 88pathoffroad's truck in the member's rigs section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 check out 88pathoffroad's truck in the member's rigs section 88's truck is a 2 door not a 4 door and he is running 12.5 wide, and the iroks smallest size is the 33-13. I will probably just end up running a different tire to be thinner. It Is just the IROKS are the best offroad tire I have ever seen. They put the regular swampers to shame witch stomp on most the competitors with ease offroad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismojunky Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 33X12.5's rub on my frame now 13 would do some real dmg and require trimming of the inner fenders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 They put the regular swampers to shame witch stomp on most the competitors with ease offroad. Swampers.....That all depends on the type of wheeling you do. In mud, yes, they're fantastic. They SUCK on rocks. And wet rocks....you may as well have street tires on. IROKs are good from what I hear, but you won't like them on these trucks without a SAS. 13" wide is too much for the IFS to handle, even if you can fit them without chewing the hell out of the sheetmetal. That's compounded by doing any sort of wheeling where a tire as "serious" as the IROKS are required. Stick with a 11.5-12.5" wide tire MAX on IFS, or forever be rebuilding your steering suspension components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 88's truck is a 2 door not a 4 door and he is running 12.5 wide, and the iroks smallest size is the 33-13. I will probably just end up running a different tire to be thinner. It Is just the IROKS are the best offroad tire I have ever seen. They put the regular swampers to shame witch stomp on most the competitors with ease offroad. it makes no difference in fitting tires if the truck is 2 or 4 door. they are essentially both the same body. 88pathoffroad is using 33x13.5x15 LTB's. I can't speak for performance of these tires because i've never used them or seen them being used. It probably won't matter what backspacing you use because they are going to rub like crazy, even with a 3" body lift and cranked torsion bars. You will have to do a lot of trimming and hammering to make those fit without rubbing. I am using a 15x8" wheel with 3.75" backspacking. i don't rub on the frame, but i crunched my rear fender, and had to cut and hammer my front fenders and they will still rub if they are stuffed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 and they will still rub if they are stuffed Or I'm in the passenger seat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 IROK are a wheel speed tire. If you are crawling rocks and barely turning tires.. yes they beat swampers. overall swampers are the best all around tire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 Unless they are Swamper Thornturds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 I have 33x13.5x15 LTB's on and they have worked fine since new. They wear out VERY fast though, don't expect to get more than 30k out of them or so. I pretzel tie rods every now and then but it's mostly due to hillclimbing under power which makes the front tires try to attack each other, even with upgraded steering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 Unless they are Swamper Thornturds thornturds are OK, as long as you have a grooving iron to cut them up as you see fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 thornturds are OK, as long as you have a grooving iron to cut them up as you see fit. Hell any tire with 20 extra pounds of rubber hangin on it would be good after a proper iron attack...I'm talking off the shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted October 28, 2008 Author Share Posted October 28, 2008 (edited) I have 33x13.5x15 LTB's on and they have worked fine since new. They wear out VERY fast though, don't expect to get more than 30k out of them or so. I pretzel tie rods every now and then but it's mostly due to hillclimbing under power which makes the front tires try to attack each other, even with upgraded steering. Thanks for the reply Last build sheet I saw on your pathy was listed at 33-12.5, But if you can fiit them now thats good then I should be able to run the Iroks with the 3+3 And some triming, What offset are you running on your rims. Was there any other mods That need to be done to fit these tires. I know I will need to upgrade the steering parts but I plan to custom Fab up some beefy rods and brackets for that. Any insight on this would be helpful as I plane To do allot of the mods to this vehicle all at 1 time. Edited October 28, 2008 by BoneZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 I know I will need to upgrade the steering parts but I plan to custom Fab up some beefy rods and brackets for that. Any insight on this would be helpful as I plane To do allot of the mods to this vehicle all at 1 time. If you don't plan to ever take it on the street, just go steel tube and heim joint for your steering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted October 28, 2008 Author Share Posted October 28, 2008 If you don't plan to ever take it on the street, just go steel tube and heim joint for your steering. I need to keep it street able enough to drive it to the trails so Im probably not going to do that, If I cant make a steering setup work that well I will go to hydrolic steering. I would prefer not to do this because of the cost and how cops seem to notice it and herase you about it even though there is no law against it here in oregon. I am in the process of looking for a pathy in a junkyard to pull all of the steering stuff out of to use for a guide to make a new setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 I need to keep it street able enough to drive it to the trails so Im probably not going to do that, If I cant make a steering setup work that well I will go to hydrolic steering. I would prefer not to do this because of the cost and how cops seem to notice it and herase you about it even though there is no law against it here in oregon. I am in the process of looking for a pathy in a junkyard to pull all of the steering stuff out of to use for a guide to make a new setup. the problem with full hydro is there is no feedback, and it does not self center like assisted gear boxes or rack and pinions. if you plan on running full hydro on a vehicle over 30mph you better get a good life insurance policy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted October 30, 2008 Author Share Posted October 30, 2008 Will the L&P steering setup hold up to 33's and real offroading or am I better off custom fabbing up a setup, Was looking into the steering stuff and there system looks allot stronger then stock, I just dont know if it will hold up to 33" tires and real offroading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 L&P doesn't exist any more, so forget that. there is a 'Hoohaa' CL that is highly recommended. That along with an idler arm brace and a pitman arm brase sets up the front end so that the tie rod ends are the weakest point. You can find info on the CL in the general section, pinned at the top under 'Pathy parts list' or something like that. It's on the last page, grassroots4x4.com or something... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 No need for a pitman arm brace. Do NOT get the gussets on the arms....Hoohaa doesn't recommend this, and the only L&P, or hoohaa CL's I've ever seen fail are the ones that were paired with the gussets on the idler and pitman arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted October 30, 2008 Author Share Posted October 30, 2008 L&P doesn't exist any more, so forget that. there is a 'Hoohaa' CL that is highly recommended. That along with an idler arm brace and a pitman arm brase sets up the front end so that the tie rod ends are the weakest point. You can find info on the CL in the general section, pinned at the top under 'Pathy parts list' or something like that. It's on the last page, grassroots4x4.com or something... B Oh I thought L&P was still around because I was on there web sight at L&P but if they no longer exist I will look Into HooHaa. Do you have a link for there Products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 HooHaa Is the screen name of the guy who makes them, you can pm him here or you can go to his site here he's a good guy and has a pretty quick turnarround/ delivery time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 HooHaa Is the screen name of the guy who makes them, you can pm him here or you can go to his site here he's a good guy and has a pretty quick turnarround/ delivery time. Calmini makes a setup: his system is a new, complete replacement set designed to correct the chronic problem of a worn idler arm and center drag link. The system includes a new precision machined Pitman & Idler Arm assemblies from billet 4140 heat treated alloy. The new idler arm rides on full replacement 3/4" pivot bracket using a much enlarged friction surface a durable Bronze bushing. Bracing the new idler arm to the vehicle is a fully incorporated idler arm brace that strengthens the entire unit. Also included in the system is a completely new Center Drag Link made from 1 1/8” x .250” wall thick DOM tubing. The center drag link uses beefy off the shelf 11/16” McQuay Norris tie rod ends for maximum strength and durability. The Center Drag Link is completely re-buildable and parts can be purchased from us directly. Lastly, the kit includes new replacement tubular tie rod adjustment links that due to the system's change in configuration, are longer than stock. This added length helps reduce bump steer angle over stock. Uses stock outer tie rod ends. This system is simple, durable, completely serviceable, and requires no modification to stock parts or vehicle. Intended for both on and off-road use. The entire kit is finished in Zinc 1 silver plating for the ultimate in durability. VEHICLE PART NUMBER PRICE 1987-92 Pathfinder WD21 NP12451 $629.95 1992.5-95 Pathfinder WD21 NP12452 $629.95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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