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Oil Question


Kittamaru
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I have heard that using Synthetic oil in vehicles not made to use it can cause problems... like the oil simply draining past the seals. Is this a real, true problem, or crap put up to try and keep people using natural oil instead of synthetic? I don't want to do my oil change and walk out the next day to a puddle of oil on my driveway and an empty oil pan :(

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I just switched my truck over to mobil 1 5w50 synthetic, yes, 5w50. And there is no puddle in my driveway or cloud of blue smoke when i start it and drive. I never have to add oil between changes either.

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I think it depends on the vehicle. The bad thing I hear about Synthetic is that if your seals are old and worn that the thinner Synthetic could possibly make them start leaking simply becuase it is thinner. I was running that half synthetic castrol stuff for a while and I had no leaks but I also read a thread somewhere that now a days synthetic oils are not even true grade synthetic anymore. I dont really see it being worth the money. I like to change my oil frequently anyway so I dont really see a point to synthetic. My father uses a full synthetic in his car. He tells me he only changes it every 7500-10000 miles depending on the driving and how long it sits. Different strokes for different folks I guess. He believes since he started using Synthetic when he bought it that it is ok to only change that often. I started using that mobil clean 5000 mile oil. I still usually change it at 3000-3500 but I also know if I miss it then I dont feel so bad going a little over. Might not be a bad idea to get underneath your truck and look around and see if you have any small leaks that just run down on the engine, tranny belhousing etc. Some oil leaks can just be real small ones that never make it to the ground.

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OWT.

 

Old wives tale... With one caveat.

 

Years ago, some really cheap dino oils had minimal if any detergents in their additive package and were quite prone to leaving sludge deposits - especially if oil changes were neglected.

Synthetic oils almost always contain the manufacturers' best additive packages - including the best detergents.

So if you have an old abused engine with lots of gunk deposits, the good additive package will begin doing its job and remove all that gunk. If the gunk was plugging up worn/ruined seals and gaskets, well, a leak would get worse.

 

So if the vehicle has been well taken care of and you've been using good quality name brand oils all along, you will NOT see any leaks developing.

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*grins* Well, my head gaskets are redneck fixed atm (eg, gunk is stopping the leak)

 

What's the difficulty and procedure in replacing both head gaskets / valve cover gaskets and the oil pan gasket?

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OWT.

 

Old wives tale... With one caveat.

 

Years ago, some really cheap dino oils had minimal if any detergents in their additive package and were quite prone to leaving sludge deposits - especially if oil changes were neglected.

Synthetic oils almost always contain the manufacturers' best additive packages - including the best detergents.

So if you have an old abused engine with lots of gunk deposits, the good additive package will begin doing its job and remove all that gunk. If the gunk was plugging up worn/ruined seals and gaskets, well, a leak would get worse.

 

So if the vehicle has been well taken care of and you've been using good quality name brand oils all along, you will NOT see any leaks developing.

So I guess if I don't have to add any oil in between changes and it stays full the whole time I'm in good shape? Someone told me that its supposed to use a little oil, although I'd rather it not. Better peace of mind.

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My old Mitsubishi burned a quart of oil every 3000 miles.....mitsu dealer, and mitsu customer care, (the 1800 number for mitsu corp) said that it is normal for a motor to consume oil..... I had only 112K on it and they didnt seem to think anything about it.

 

I switched my Pathfinder over to Full Synthetic @ 245K. (diffs, t-case, tranny and motor) I now have two oil changes and 257K on her now with no oil leaks or consumption. i really like it.

 

On a side note, the cost is about the same....Advance autoparts is running a buy one get one sale on valvoline syn... but i have seen a 2 - 3 mpg change, avg 15 before got 17-18 after might be pump/user error... I even got 12 - 13 mpg towing a 2000 lb trailer from denver to Philly.

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OWT.

 

Old wives tale... With one caveat.

 

Years ago, some really cheap dino oils had minimal if any detergents in their additive package and were quite prone to leaving sludge deposits - especially if oil changes were neglected.

Synthetic oils almost always contain the manufacturers' best additive packages - including the best detergents.

So if you have an old abused engine with lots of gunk deposits, the good additive package will begin doing its job and remove all that gunk. If the gunk was plugging up worn/ruined seals and gaskets, well, a leak would get worse.

 

So if the vehicle has been well taken care of and you've been using good quality name brand oils all along, you will NOT see any leaks developing.

 

ding, ding, ding.. synthetic is good stuff and if you can, change to it.. my truck tuns way smoother then it did on dynoil. also synth has more of a "magnitic personality" and tends to attach itself to areas where dyno would drain out of when the engine isn't running. so at start up you actually have some lube before the pressure kick the rest of the oil around.

 

 

*grins* Well, my head gaskets are redneck fixed atm (eg, gunk is stopping the leak)

 

What's the difficulty and procedure in replacing both head gaskets / valve cover gaskets and the oil pan gasket?

 

:search:

 

hehe.. but 5/20; 2/10; 8+/10; also there are other seals on an engine..

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*grins* Well, my head gaskets are redneck fixed atm (eg, gunk is stopping the leak)

 

What's the difficulty and procedure in replacing both head gaskets / valve cover gaskets and the oil pan gasket?

 

 

If you head gaskets are leaking you got bigger problems and it should not be driven. Oil could be in the water, coolant could be in the oil. Not good. I hope you mean valve cover gaskets.

 

and In the USA not all synthetics are 100 % synthetic. Amsoil, Red line, Royal purple and mobile one are fully synthetic. Not sure about others

 

Mark

Edited by msavides
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*grins* Well, my head gaskets are redneck fixed atm (eg, gunk is stopping the leak)

 

What's the difficulty and procedure in replacing both head gaskets / valve cover gaskets and the oil pan gasket?

:sly:http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4410&hl=

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7681&hl=

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It's the valve cover gaskets I guess... I'm not 100% sure to be honest... all I know is the SLIGHTEST bit of oil leaks out of the engine when under heavy heavy pressure (high RPM) but it's stopped for now due to it being dirty enough to prevent more loss :P

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It's the valve cover gaskets I guess... I'm not 100% sure to be honest... all I know is the SLIGHTEST bit of oil leaks out of the engine when under heavy heavy pressure (high RPM) but it's stopped for now due to it being dirty enough to prevent more loss :P

don't be so hard on your truck then :rolleyes: I try my hardest to not let it shift over 3k rpm. You'll get better mileage too.

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Yes, but our on ramps onto the highway here give you a meager 20 feet or so before you have to merge into traffic... no joke some of them give like, 2, maybe 3 car lengths. I need to be able to hit 65mph before I get rear ended in that space, so I have to really haul ass at times.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys i work in Quaker State and what you get using synthetic oil is more times between oil changes, thats all, synthetic oils have a wide range of viscosity that goes from 5 to 50 , and thats wath matters, in the owners manual of my pathfinder says that a 5w 40 can be used , and that applies to normal multigrade oil as synthetic oil.

 

So there is no problem using them, you can take like a year witout having to change it.

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OWT.

 

Old wives tale... With one caveat.

 

Years ago, some really cheap dino oils had minimal if any detergents in their additive package and were quite prone to leaving sludge deposits - especially if oil changes were neglected.

Synthetic oils almost always contain the manufacturers' best additive packages - including the best detergents.

So if you have an old abused engine with lots of gunk deposits, the good additive package will begin doing its job and remove all that gunk. If the gunk was plugging up worn/ruined seals and gaskets, well, a leak would get worse.

 

So if the vehicle has been well taken care of and you've been using good quality name brand oils all along, you will NOT see any leaks developing.

 

Not so, the original synthetics DID leak out seals even in a maintained engine. Of course that was 20 some odd years ago, and they have changed the formulas to avoid that trouble now.

 

 

As far as using them in place of dino; if your engine doesn't leak or burn oil, go for it. If you have to add oil every other visit to the gas station, you are probably just fine $$$ and addative wise to keep topping off the dino with dino.

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My old Mitsubishi burned a quart of oil every 3000 miles.....mitsu dealer, and mitsu customer care, (the 1800 number for mitsu corp) said that it is normal for a motor to consume oil..... I had only 112K on it and they didnt seem to think anything about it.

 

I switched my Pathfinder over to Full Synthetic @ 245K. (diffs, t-case, tranny and motor) I now have two oil changes and 257K on her now with no oil leaks or consumption. i really like it.

 

On a side note, the cost is about the same....Advance autoparts is running a buy one get one sale on valvoline syn... but i have seen a 2 - 3 mpg change, avg 15 before got 17-18 after might be pump/user error... I even got 12 - 13 mpg towing a 2000 lb trailer from denver to Philly.

 

*ding* Mitsubitchy, errr, I mean Sh_itsubishi... I will never own another Sh_itsubitchy ever again... ever... everevereverever...ever...again...

Edited by Mr. Pickles
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