FUELER

Mine also has a large black resonator box in front of the drivers side tire. If you pull back the fender lining, and feel up in the front of the box, you will find the intake inlet to be facing forwards, behind where the stock foglight goes.... like a cold air intake

Financially, it does not make sense to convert to LPG in USA. The price of LPG is practically the same as the price of gasoline. LPG is real popular where I am from, Poland, because there the price of propane equates to $3 USD per gallon and gasoline equates to $6 USD per gallon (when you convert to gallons). It seems that almost half of all cars over there are fitted with propane because the conversion pays for itself! Over here in USA, why would anybody spend $600 on the conversion, only to pay the same price for LPG/fuel and struggle to find gas stations that sell propane! The only thing I can think of is having an extra tank (on LPG you can change the fuel source with the flip of a switch)

Well those look like the stock black KYB struts.... very often, people will replace struts at the same time as a lift so thats kinda weird but it sure as hell looks lifted to me... clearly taller than my stock suspension R50

also you need to remove the plastic panel behind the glove box which is just a few phillips screws, and also remove the upper latch for the glove box (2 phillips screws) The OEM Nissan filters can be had for around $35 at the dealership, part # 999M1-VP003 (99-04 R50) You can find knock off filters on ebay for under $25 shipped but they are a lower quality filter. I bought a cheap one once only to throw it in the garbage when I saw what a cheap copy it was.

I dont see how holes in the resonator box would suck up any more water already, the factory intake inlet hole is already at a pretty low point (behind the stock fog light)...

When mine hit 120k miles, both camshaft seals were lightly leaking as well as the valve cover gaskets....

^^ good call One time, my family used to live in an apartment complex with a hater manager... My father parked his truck briefly in the managers spot, and returned to find that all the air was let out of all 4 tires... he could even see the manager watching out the window to see what he would do... my father opens the back of the truck up, pulls out his air compressor, and was outta there in under 5 minutes....

nucking futs post a pic mane

I dont see why not! Import racer people do it all the time! Some of the rules that i know: engine must be from same year or newer than the car its going in. All smog components must be hookedup and working. All computer and wiring must be accurate in respect to what engine is in the car. The motor cant be stolen and must have a VIN on it somewhere. Then we simply take it into the California Bureau of automotive repair station and get a BAR sticker for the door jamb, then its smoggable! This thread is worthless without pictures!!

I've got an annoying rattle in the dash somewhere, as well. I have yet to hunt it down. Mine really rattles at certain speeds, and its obvious that its from my mud tires. It rattles when the tires make the most ruckus. If I had street tires, dash would likely be nice and quiet.

liquid nails in all his lock, including house

Can anybody identify these rims? Listed in the description as 20x9 but they do not disclose the brand name by the way its the 2007 chevy 4x4 7" subframe lift from CST, i wish i had the $$ !!!

my R50 couldnt lock up my 32" tires, or engage ABS, if my life depended on it.

Car seems to brake better than before, but under regular driving only so far. Haven't tried super hard braking yet. I know that the warped, cheapo rotors I just replaced, couldnt lock up the tires or engage ABS at all when literally standing on the brake pedal (and it wasnt to the floor) from 70 mph to 0. I noticed now that the e-brake handle does seem slightly tighter, maybe 5 clicks to hold the QX4 on an incline, 2-3 clicks is sufficient on flat ground. I like that, It was like 6-7 clicks before.

Looks like the bottom shock mount will protect it from all the crazy objects.... I wouldnt worry about sticks and shrubs I dont think youll have any problems at all.

I was VERY easy on the brakes, always careful not to clamp down on them after long, hard stops, always using engine braking whenever possible... I've always been very conscious about the brakes, as weird as that may sound My (trustworthy) mechanic found that the rear drums had very deep grooves scorched into them. He said the drum covers were impossible to get off, I think because it was the first rear brake service in the entire 145k on my QX4. He machined the drums, put on new shoes, and adjusted. I'm thinking that might have been a major cause of prematurely warped front rotors Do you guys recommend checking the adjustment of rear LSV? Or no, since mechanic adjusted rear at the drums?

Theoretical question for you experts out there Can out-of-balance wheels cause "warped" brake rotors? 2 of my wheels have a slight (but very noticeable) shake at 55mph + due to poor quality tires. The reason I ask, is that I had warped brake rotors after only one year of use, and don't know whether to attribute this to the extremely worn rear drums, poor quality rotors, unbalanced wheels, or maybe a mix of all 3? Thanks in advance

97-04 QX4 wheels will all work The average going rate for 16" QX4 wheels WITH TIRES is $125 for all 4, including lug nuts and caps. I've sold three sets already on craigslist (which i bought for even cheaper) The low price make it a perfect candidate for winter wheels Problem is they are quite rare, here in a city with population 3 million, i find a set maybe twice a year, if you live in the boonies, you will never find any

That doesnt look normal to me. Mine never leaked like that. Towards the back of that hose, you see the cylindrical piece of pipe with the valve on top and light green cap? Grab that whole thing with your hand with AC on, and see how cold it is. Mine feels like 35~40* and gets condensation on it. Like a soda can that came out of a refrigerator.

Yeah mine can be inaccurate if the cars been sitting in the sun, or has been idling for a while Seems to get more accurate once you start driving

Just for comparison, my VG33 with 140k miles doesnt burn ANY oil at all. I change every 3k and the oil level is always in the same spot as when i finished my last oil change.

I know theres a huge oil consumption problem with G35, and Nissan 350Z which share the same VQ35 basic platform Very often I see google sponsored ads for class action law suit against nissan for this Example: http://nissan350zoilconsumption.com/ Good info: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/196502 http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?p=1325458

He spoke Thizzlamic, but I can understand him. He said, "Al Boo Boo the eagle has landed." My reply, "Pronto, Cuzzin, execute stage two, put the turkey in the oven."

I find that the Nissan-supplied tool is PERFECT for the task! if i remember correctly, i think the shorter of the 2 tools is for plug 6. I can't imagine any store-bought tool that would make it easier, any other tool would probably make it harder. There is even a small notch in the firewall to clear the tool. You can maybe use that as an idea of where to hold the tool. I stand on a step stool and lean on the engine so I can get my hands down there to pull the plug wire off. I think i used a blanket on the engine last time for cushion.