FUELER

sorry to jump in, but hey xplorx, my alignment is off but the tie rod end is at the maximum adjustment... (and im stock height too) what do you recommend

so did you notice any gain from that mod? car take longer to warm up?

whats TB bypass? is that blocking off the coolant line that flows through the intake manifold?

yes the nissan tool kit (which is also used for the spare tire) has a special tool for plug #6 makes it easy and like silverlion mentioned the firewall, haha i too have lost some skin to the firewall gods

it barely fit where it is now, it wouldnt have fit over in the hole youre talking about but i did consider what ur talking about.. it simply didnt work

Been meaning to do this for a while Zip tied 3" flex pipe can you see the outlet under the filter?? No difference in city driving, but a noticeable difference at highway speed. It pulls on the freeway!! i did a few tests, if i block the hole and drive on freeway for 5 mins, the metal parts of the filter are hot as well as intake pipe opened up the hole, drove the same stretch of freeway, grabbed the filter to feel that it was COLD as well as the plastic intake pipe, also cold very happy with the mod.

and technically called the "load sensing valve" in this particular vehicle

you did the right thing by pulling the plugs. sounds lke you went east on it, and from my experience, i'd have to say that your VG33 will probably provide you several more years of reliable service

Maybe it was the brake setup i had. cheap "zimmerman" rotors with federal-mogul thermoquiet pads. I felt serious brake fade not only in the mountains, but even in emergency situations on freeways in the city. And I love engine braking. i switched to brembo front rotors with hawk HPS pads, and had the rear drums machined (the drums had grooves scorched into them) and new shoes and it made a huge difference im about to change brake fluid, what brake fluid do you all recommend?

Absolutely, i agree with you in the sense its probably not worth the money and labor, for a negligible increase in braking power and precision, esp. in our underpowered SUV's... personally i have felt brake fade before installing my brembo front brakes and hawk pads.. havent felt since, front is defintely more inportant but the rear has 10-20% influence too... but i still think every little bit helps Back to the original question, i copied the following from Mr. Reverse: " Yes it is possible to convert to rear disc. Is it worth the hassle and expense is up to you. Personally I think the easiest and cheapest way would be to get the entire rear axle assembly from a WD21 with rear disc and the same gears. You will need to modify or have custom parking brake cables made. You will need to replace the MC with one for 4 wheel disc rather than your disc/drum setup. You may also need to replace the load sensing valve if you have one. A couple differences are found between the disc and the drum H233B, most notably in that they are using different axle shafts, backing plates, andobviously the brakes. Also the R50's H233B is a bit different from the WD21 H233B in that it is a 33 spline vs 31 spline. "

i havent moved in there yet thats probably why im still in a crazy mindstate.

yes you are my friend you jerk just look art my friends list although i should take you off now u back stabber

then you have a lot to learn, my friend. Disc are far superior to drums, and anybody who really wants precise and reliable braking power (like me) would want 4 wheel disc. Stole this from some article: DRUM BRAKES This basic design proves capable under most circumstances, but it has one major flaw. Under high braking conditions, like descending a steep hill with a heavy load or repeated high-speed slow downs, drum brakes will often fade and lose effectiveness. Usually this fading is the result of too much heat build-up within the drum. Remember that the principle of braking involves turning kinetic energy (wheel movement) into thermal energy (heat). For this reason, drum brakes can only operate as long as they can absorb the heat generated by slowing a vehicle's wheels. Once the brake components themselves become saturated with heat, they lose the ability to halt a vehicle, which can be somewhat disconcerting to the vehicle's operator. DISC BRAKES Unlike drum brakes, which allow heat to build up inside the drum during heavy braking, the rotor used in disc brakes is fully exposed to outside air. This exposure works to constantly cool the rotor, greatly reducing its tendency to overheat or cause fading. Not surprisingly, it was under racing circumstances that the weaknesses of drum brakes and the strengths of disc brakes were first illustrated. Racers with disc brake systems could carry their speed "deeper" into a corner and apply greater braking force at the last possible second without overheating the components. Eventually, as with so many other automotive advances, this technology filtered down to the cars driven by everyday people on public roads. http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techcente...57/article.html

great info, thanks guys!! wow 2.596:1 is not very low at all. and here i am thinking its closer to 4:1 yeah right!

you guys have emissions in czech republic?? wow...

by golly, youre right and everybody else is wrong. I just did a quick craigslist search and there are in fact 2000-2001 pathfinders that have the single horizontal bar, while the majority in those years have mesh. Good catch!!

EDIT: i was going to say that ive seen chains snap just as hard but then i remembered that it was in fact a metal winch cable that had smashed my rear window when the tow hook on the car to be recovered snapped....

Extremely sad fate. I will pray for him. At least he was doing what he loved, but that doesn't help the tragedy much. Tow hooks can easily kill and I am always conscious of this when recovering (i usually duck down in my rig) RIP be careful guys... last week i say a guy recovering with his winch, while SITTING ON THE FRONT BUMPER!!!

QX4 with the all-mode ATX14A transfer case im trying to figure out the ratio for low range The QX4 technical book says this: GEAR RATIO HIGH 1 GEAR RATIO LOW 2.596 and then i know the final drive is a 4.636 how do i convert this into the ratio, you know how the jeep guys say 4:1 transfer case or whatever.... Thanks in advance

over filling could definitely cause this. I would unhook the valve cover breather, and run the engine at idle to see if anything comes out (although its more likely that its coming out at higher RPMs) You could always disconnect that breather.... run a hose from the valve cover down to the ground, let it breathe out under your engine, thats better anyways, the only reason for the valve cover breather is emissions and its actually bad for your engine to be sucking up oil vapors, its sticks up the throttle body and gunks up maf sensors

wow i never even realized there are 2 different pathfinder grills... i wish i didnt see this thread, though, because now everytime i see a 00-02 R50, i will say the year in my head i do that with Hondas already and its crazy PS i like the mesh grill better

i have the jim wolf intake (which is just a fancy maf adapter/velocity stack/filter) it uses the stock intake pipe http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/356622 link to photos

Well Thank you very much for reading my long and confusing question - and and thanks for the info on what that piece of electronic is. I will wait until i install a new key cylinder - i hope its not expensive!

Oh , and i did reprogram the remote to the car with no luck.

OK let me start with a little bit of history. Someone unsuccessfully attempted to break into the drivers side door by breaking the door lock. Then i started having problems, that the interior door handle would stick out a few millimeters furter than it used to, and it would LOCK all 5 doors everytime i simply touched the door handle. I mean even the lightest touch, like a feather, would trigger the power door locks to lock. It was bizarre. video for those who are curious what i am talking about But the keyless entry worked fine the whole time this was going on. Well i finally took off the drivers side inner door panel to see what was happening. First of all, the key lock in the door has two parts - first the metal cylindrical "tumbler" for the key itself, and then on the tip of it, is a smaller electronic cylinder, connected by three wires, that looks like the tip of the key slips into it. When you put the key in the door and turn it once, you unlock that one door manually (meaning the tumbler physically unlocks the door). If you twist it twice, all door unlock electronically, thanks to the second part with wires connected to it. the little electronic thing looks like this but no blue part. well the secondary electronic thing that goes on the tumbler was completely knocked off and dangling, and it was actually jammed into the linkages, causing the interior handle to stick out and also my bizarre locking problem. The interior door handle is connected to the door latch assembly by two linkages - one for the lock and one for the handle. well the secondary electronic thing that goes on the tumbler was completely knocked off and dangling due to the attempted break in, and it was actually jammed into the linkages, causing the interior handle to stick out and also my bizarre locking problem, (although the keyless entry worked fine for all doors) I took that piece of the door lock that was dangling, pulled it out of the linkage that it was jammed in, and securely taped it to the interior wall, out of the linkages way and out of the windows way. I will reattach it to a new tumbler when i buy it. I put everything together and the bizarre door lock problem is fixed - but now i have a new problem with keyless entry. The remote will unlock the drivers door with one press - press twice and its supposed to open all doors, it no longer unlocks the rest of the doors. Only drivers. I think this definitely has to do with that electronic piece on the end of the tumbler, which is connected by three wires, but i dont know what could have changed since all I did was free the piece from the linkages it was caught up in, and tape it out of harms way. It was disconnected from the tumbler before (and the keyless worked fine) it is still disconnected and now the keyless has stopped opening all the doors, only drivers side works. I am wondering if anybody is familiar with how the keyless entry exactly works when it unlocks all 5 doors? Mr Reverse? i know you have some knowledge of the linkages and what not. I know this is a problem that is hard to understand over the internet, with no photos, just a bad description, but im crossing my fingers and hoping somebody has some advice anyways. I will eventually buy a new tumbler, reattach the electronic piece, and hope it works. I just dont know how the keyless has stopped working when all i did was move the piece out of harms way Thanks in advance