FUELER

since removing the AC auto amp, my car has been starting first try (but weaker than normal) how long do i need to drive around for, until the alternator fully charges the battery?

my advice is to keep the dials! Less electronics to go haywire. (are the dials electronic or mechanical?) I'd switch to dials if it was an easy swap.

i unplugged all components of the blower completely and the main control kept going crazy now i have removed the control (Nissan call it "AC auto amp") and i will go drive in a bit to see if the battery keeps dieing luckily the digital climate control is only $30 off ebay, the pathfinder one should work, right? (the G20 one also looks identical)

auto climate control is out of its mind (fan speed is flashing like a techno party) and if i press off it just turns right back on climate control going crazy and it kills the battery any advice???

what i mean is how deep before i should worry about water getting into the breathers. sorry for the unclear title. Thanks

This weekend i drove through a long creek (about 300' long) where at its deepest point, the water was near the top of the tire, entire rim submerged at what point should i worry about water getting in the diffs? Should I open fill hole and check? Or dont worry bout it? heres a photo, this was almost the deepest part THANKS IN ADVANCE

V8 Infiniti VH45 swap! the vg33 is ridiculous. i mean it can be made fun if you torture it hard enough. Just keep the pedal to the metal, revs high. i only have an intake and the top end is great off-road, im sure it would feel nice and opened up with an exhaust and hollow cat. vq35 is a whole different story, i think i'd be content if i had that stock.

if you can find them for $100 then buy them. problem is you cant find them for that price. I sold several of these spacers for $160 a pair, thats a good going rate for a hard-to-find part.

LOL i have yet to install that thing!!! my original got destroyed in the snow. i think it helps direct airflow? anyways, nobody mentioned that they are 10mm bolts and you should have an extension handy cause two of the bolts (one on each side) will need an extension cause theyre deep

i fitted a set very similar to that, on my R50. looked awesome but the center bore was *slightly* too small, to the point where the rim was damaged after only a test fit. they were pissed when i didnt buy them. the thing is, those rims are the most popular right now, do you really want to be riding around on the same rims as everybody else?

i want to buy an xbox360 just to play "dirt" i am still stuck with my old trusty PS2 (on a 40" LCD HDTV - what a shame!) howvere that stuff is MONEY and im hesitant to spend $350+ just to rot my brains out someone mentioned that "Dirt" is made by codemasters - is this true??? I have an old PS2 game called "colin mcrae rally" and its made by codemasters, its OK for an old game but the fact that i have to spend money on their website for cheat codes unique to my disc, is LAME!!! Did they do this with dirt??? (unique codes for every disc so the codes cant be spread on the internet)

yup, its for the alarm. its the only switch in the entire security system that, when open, wont prevent you from arming the security... which is why you dont notice a difference with it dangling... (you cant arm the alarm with the trunk open for example, but you can arm it with the hood open just fine)

Mine does the same thing. Does not like to idle for long times, especially if the ac compressor is on, or if its a really hot day. But 40 degrees??? (Perhaps you were using the front windshield defrost, which engages the AC compressor? but still....) if you been mudding a lot, you should always use a garden hose and push water through the radiator fins from back to front, you might be surprised at what pours out the other side! good luck.

yup theres tons of junkyards by my house that have all those parts for dirt cheap!

hah i had a buddy that was telling me this. he filled a cylinder with water and had some home made contraption with electrodes all soldered in, hooked up a 12v auto batt and the water started foaming and then he held up a lighter (the long kitchen type) and it made a loud *POP* so hes tellin me the dude who discovered that was killed by the government... but im thinkin.... we would have seen it in use by now if it was feasible, right?

i just replaced the rear lowercontrol arm bushings, i wish there was something like this commercially available for the R50 as replacing the arms would have been much easier than pressing the bushings. tmorgan4 actually had this idea for a while now, and is retrofitting a set for himself. i had the opportunity to get a pair through him but im uncomfortable being the first lab rat... heres an email tyler sent me a few months back.

true. I dont know why they charge more to do less work. The machine must be expensive. exactly. a lot of the hills in my neighborhood have a stop sign or a traffic light at the very bottom of the hill so that makes it even worse. I learned about engine braking my first day as a tow truck driver, when i rolled back to the tow yard and the rear brakes were smoking like chimneys. The owner of the truck was not happy, to say the least. I specifically remember him telling me that "you can not drive this thing like a car. you need to use engine braking EVERYWHERE" i learned very quickly and now use the skill no matter what im driving

ya i have hub centric rings on my race car and all it is some plastic rings that center the wheel on the hub lug centric in the QX4 no problems

was thinking about this thread while i was driving around today and i realized something. I only use engine-braking when coasting down hills that have a set speed limit. its perfect to maintain speed. In my auto R50 i never downshift to actually slow down for red light situations like what you guys might be thinking. I do believe that excessive engine braking in an automatic can and will cause problems. Most of my where i live is canyons and valleys, so im just driving up and down hills all day. Brake shops make a killing out here. Some of you might live in flat areas and be thinking what is this nut talking about engine braking for!!

wow what the hell failed?!?!?

Nissan 4x4 rotors are a pain in the ass to remove and reinstall.... if i had to resurface, i'd go somewhere that has an on-car brake lathe. They turn the rotors without removing them!

the bearings are cheap ($8) so why not replace them if everything is taken apart? However, the Nissan ones are fine with just a repack, i have yet to hear of a wheel bearing failure on these message boards.

wow, you definitely dont know what you are talking about

100% correct, u should never feel a "shudder" ive been engine braking my QX4 for 5 years now and my original drivetrain still works smooth as butter.... let me guess, im lucky?? yeah right. i have brembo brakes and hawk hps pads, i prefer not to waste them on downhill street driving, i like to leave them ready for when i need them

at slower speeds (aka lower revs,) yes the injectors are spraying just as they would at idle (with the throttle plate shut)!!!