180sx

Awesome. Next up is an Xterra supercharger, yes? (I mean, since you won't be dropping in a V8, amiright??)! Jose

When I had my R50, I had 31's on the stock alloys (SE) and they fit under the rear no problem, but I also didn't have a receiver. Also, didn't know there was a difference in steering racks... Jose

When my strut mount broke, that's all I did was replace the mount and bearing. As long as the strut still has strong rebound, it should be fine. Jose

I would go for the first one. The second one is meh. For one, the dealer doesn't know how to spell "everyone" so that's a sign they are in a rush to unload this. It also says it has a "towing package" but it doesn't even have a hitch. So it doesn't really have a towing package. They have a price of $6,995 crossed out for a "special price" of $5,995 and KBB says you should only pay $4,865 from a dealer. So I would stay away from them. If you can get the maintanence record from the dealer for the first one, then 150K miles is nothing. There are year 2003 cars with 150K miles and more. The maintanance things on the first one are things you would normally do anyway on a used car purchase of this age. I mean, from the pictures the engine bay looks clean, but not cleaned up for a picture, letting you know it wasn't driven real hard or off-road. You shouldn't have to take it to the mechanic for anything on that list. That's all doable at home (buy a whole new cv axle for $100, buy new control arms starting with the bottom 2 first. Rock-Auto has great deals on these). Good luck on getting a Pathfinder. Jose

They may not be the kind of plugs you are thinking about. They could be the "knock-outs". Not sure, and someone else may say otherwise. But take a look. If they are, you just need a hammer and like a flat tip screw driver to twist them to pull them out. Jose

Yes.

OK. So the Pathfinder quit on me yesterday. Story goes, I was driving on E two days ago. Got to the gas station and put in some gas. When I get close to home, I pushed the gas after a turn, it bogged, and then died. Started up, finished driving home. So I drive it some more that night, and it's doing the whole bog thing. I push the gas, the RPM's drop. Put it in Neutral, it was idling fine. Put it in drive, it wants to die sometimes, or it will drive fine for a few minutes, then bog and die. So I try to drive the next day. Let it warm up before I drove it. Ran fine for 10 minutes, then it bogged, died, and now it won't start again. I checked for spark. It gets it fine (did the whole take the plug out, ground it and watch it spark). The fuel pump is coming on, but I'm not sure if it's actually pushing any fuel through the lines. The tank is clean, there is no gunk in it at all. I'm confused here. Don't know why it won't start. Really don't want to drop $130 on a new fuel pump if it's not that. Could it be the relay? I need ideas! If I can't get it to run in a week, it's getting sold to the junkers! Jose

Twas a joke. Mwahaha. Yes, I had 31's with no lift and 15x10's (which are for sale BTW! chack the for sale section!). Rubbed a little at full lock in reverse, but that was about it. Do it! Jose

They work with the 96 as well. Jose

Why get rid of the OME springs? Unless you don't want it that high, I'd say keep them for the full 5-6" of lift over just the 4". Jose

A way to do this without the VH pistons and VG30DE rods would be to get a rebuild kit from RPM Machine: http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=322 They can sell oversize pistons...so it eliminates the valve relief process. just a thought. Jose

Check your strut mounts. The hole where the shaft goes through could be damaged. Open hood, bounce pathfinder and see if the shaft moves around. Of course you would probably notice this other than turning, but you never know. Just another thing to check. Don't want to end up like this: Jose

Just wondering how far down the pipe are you going to merge them? Or are the being collected right away?

MMM...GT28RS with N111 wheel...lovely. Jose

Run some seafoam in there and swee if it helps. Jose

THATS NOT GOOD! Probably got water in the crankcase. The cool water and hot oil made some naughty pressure in there. Hopefully you can just clean it out and get it running again with no damage to the journals. Jose

Wow, thats alot of money! 1K for 3 links? WTF? I'd say more like $600 at most, even with the johnny joints.

Just wondering if anyone had this issue. i got home later night. Path has been running and starting just fine, and has a new battery in it (not even 2 weeks on it). I go to start it the next day. Nothing. Seems like the battery is dead. Maybe the door didn't close so light was on all night and day. So i hook up jumpers. let it sit. Eeventually get it to start up. drive around a bit to charge battery back up. Come back later and it won't start again. the lights came on, but no starter action. Then the lights are all dim. Check battery with voltmeter. 12.74. so has power. Switch key to on position. fuel pump rely is just clicking away non stop. take it off, bang it a few times. play with battery terminals. try to start. it starts up. This has me boggled. I don't think the fuel pump relay would keep it from starting (well, keep it from cranking at least) and causing the lights to dim. Do you? Any ideas? Jose

I only turn it off on the highway to pass someone. I've never heard of anyone buring through their trans faster because of this little function. Jose

K&N not better than Weapon R? That's funny. And JWT actually is the best intake for this vehicle, performance wise (of course with the addition of support mods, as an intake by itself won't really do anything). BUT, the Weapon R sure does look good. Jose

I love your Pathy OffTour...Love it. Wanna trade? Lol. Jose

Very Nice! What are the wheels? If I'm not mistaken, I'd say the were 10" wide. Looks good! Love the lip! Jose

Even some autozone/advance/napa/o'reilly/car quest/checkers/ect. have warranty. Do you have the receipt? If not, you're screwed. And only a year? Sounds like mine! Bad alignment, unbalanced wheels, and a bad ball joint contributed to my premature failure. How about yours? Jose

If you've been using full sysnthetic, I'd stick with what you're using. Unless the High Milage is also fully synthetic, you'll just add gunk to your engine. I also have the VG33. I change mine every 3-5K miles. My reason is I do a lot of city driving with it. And with the tight factory clearances of the VG engines (more than even the VQ) I prefer to keep it fresh. Your intervals sound good. You could wait a little longer this time, see when your oil gets dirty, and change it just before that mark. Although, personally, I'd never go past 5K miles for an oil change (even when I was using Royal Purple in my old RX-7, I never went past 7K, and that oil is 'supposedly' good for 15K). Jose

Very nice. Very nice indeed! Jose