180sx

Yup, this is my main concern also. Changing what the MAF sits in can change air readings dramatically. And being thats its in the rubber thing, makes for leak possibilities (how is that mounted in there anyway?). I say 2 weeks not to scare, but to let us know if the results of this mod are faverobile or not. I always give myself 2 weeks after I do something to re-evaluate and see if it was worth the time/money/effort or not. You say you hope for more MPG's. Give the ECU 2 weeks to work this setup in, and then let us know the MPG's you are getting. Jose

It;s great to see some ingenuity. But the MAF in that location like that is probably not the best thing to have. You could have bought a MAF adapter for $5 off ebay. Either way, let us know the long term results (like in 2 weeks) of how its goingand get some real MPG numbers. Jose

http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2011/04/nissan-pathfinder-infiniti-qx4-recalled-for-rust-and-steering-problems.html Might want to read that. Jose

Friend, you took way too much off! You need only undo the 6 bolts on the axle side, and undo the hub part. Push and turn and wiggle it down through the control arm. Wala. Jose

VIP style that bimmer. That would be the shizznits for shizzles! Jose

Belt might be rubbing.

I would look into stock Altima or Maxima Cams. Jose

The springs are only available from them (that's the actual lift!). But save money and get the other stuff elsewhere. NX4 indusustries (daddyrim on this forum) sells 1" spacers. Jose

is there a brand name on that bumper? Jose

no lift. just cut wells to fit the tires.

Black on black...NICE! Jose

Aloha! So I take it your in Hawaii? What part? Anyway. 1. The KYB GR-2 Struts are the best we have for our R50's. So good choice there. 2. Wow, crooked spring. Look at the top of the strut. The mount has 2 letters, 'L' and 'R'. The side the strut is on should have that letter towards the engine. (i.e. drivers side should have 'L' toward the engine.). The spring hat has a 'v' notch in it. This should be lined up with the before said letter. Hope this helps! Jose

So...you didn't get the black steelies then? Looks good, still! Jose

Here is the link to the pinned topic in the R50 section that Andrew did, http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23821 Jose

Photography classes?!?! (kidding). Looks like a hidden compartment for ninja kittens. Jose

Wait, what? From reading Mike Kojimas article, the VH45 pistons are .30 over, netting a VG34. So wouldn't .40 over make it a VG35? Damn it...I need to crunch numbers. Jose

No, I won't post there unless I've searched for a few weeks. haha. I just have a few posts there, but all bringing back old threads I've found from searching. And like kingman said, unless you bore the piston side of the con rod, you'll need to use the VG30DE(TT) rods. Those I have not had luck finding for a reasonable price. So my build will be: VG33 block bored .040 over (making it I believe a VG35...Ooh! Must check the numbers though) VG33 heads (maybe port and polished if i can find a shop to do it for under $600) VG33 crank (no point in changing this and my accessories, and this crank can hold a recorded over 600HP, so my N/A will be fine) VG30E cams from a WD And I must look into this oil pump from a 300ZX turbo auto. I may have to change my crank if I want to use this. Now, to save up! Jose

Haha. Yea, that was bad. A worst-case-scenario if you will. I was getting popping sounds and clunking over bumps. But, like I said, the NAPA ones I have are great! Jose

I just found my answer! these would be good to go! Now, if .030 makes it a 3.4L, what does .040 make it? Hmm. here is what i found from Z31performance.com http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10615&hilit=Boring+VG33E Jose

So, my VG33E has pretty much hit rock bottom and I'm going to need to rebuild it. Upon doing research for my Kia Rio turbo project (yes, that was not a typo. lol), I stummbled across this site. They have a full engine rebuild kit that comes with new pistons. They also offer these in oversized sizes! I have a set of Infiniti VH45 pistons sitting in my garage right now. Problem is I can't find a machine shop locally willing to fly cut the valve clearances (one shop said they would, but the price was rediculous!). So I found this site. It's an awesome deal, at less than $400 for the whole kit. This would be so much easier than getting different rods and cutting into pistons. But, I have one issue. They offer them in .020 and .040 over. I want the bigger one. Anyone know if we can bore our blocks .040 over? Seems like a lot to take off, and I'm concerned about water jackets and oil passages being thin. I'm going to check with the Z31 guys and see what they have to say. Just wanted to let you guys know. RPM rebuild kit Jose

Nice Civic! the 4 doors look way better than the coupes IMO. Good deal! Don't be a stranger on the boards now! Jose

Bad strut bearing (also known as sperical bearing in Nissan Parts land)!! Jose

In that diagram, look at P/N 54093. Is that what you are talking about? Madhornet, re-read what he wrote> the rear of the control arm. Guess he should have added front lower control arm in there. And weird what that part number 54480 is called. Haha. Jose

Check the bulb? Bah, no need. Just keep gas in the tank. I think my CEL bulb is out though. It used to always be on and off. Hasn;t been on in a very long time and I havent changed the problem yet (bad O2 sensor) so I'm assuming it's dead. And to think of it, the light probably stopped working the las time I went wheeling, because I remember it not coming on on the drive home and I was on E. Maybe the jars shorted the bulb? Who knows. Too lazy to pull the cluster. Engine is practically dead anyway and it's just parked now while I wait for parts so it gets more than 8mpg. Jose

Just two bolts on the control arms. Search "missing link" and Tylers thread should come up. has the pictures in there. Jose