180sx

nice!

Depends when for me. I'd be able to get them at the end of the year. these things look awesome. So pretty!

Could be a bunch of things. My MPG's just fell off. When I go it, it got 16MPG, then it went down to 12, and now its at 8. I'm getting ready to rebuild the motor, since it's also leaking oil everywhere. Just check the basics. Tires, CV's, ignition stuff. Fuel filter, PCV, air filter. Tune up stuff! Jose

Well try this if you do it. (note, this is all theory in my head and from reading random internets)***Put the MAF in a tube that has an inside diameter a little bigger (no more than an inch) and your milage may go up. Our engines (well, most engines for that matter) run rich. Enlarge the hole, and the sensor thinks it's getting less air than it really is, effectively leaning it out. Well, you don't have to try it. Only safe way to do it would be to get an A/F ratio gauge with a wideband O2 to see what is actually going on. Jose

Yup, this is my main concern also. Changing what the MAF sits in can change air readings dramatically. And being thats its in the rubber thing, makes for leak possibilities (how is that mounted in there anyway?). I say 2 weeks not to scare, but to let us know if the results of this mod are faverobile or not. I always give myself 2 weeks after I do something to re-evaluate and see if it was worth the time/money/effort or not. You say you hope for more MPG's. Give the ECU 2 weeks to work this setup in, and then let us know the MPG's you are getting. Jose

It;s great to see some ingenuity. But the MAF in that location like that is probably not the best thing to have. You could have bought a MAF adapter for $5 off ebay. Either way, let us know the long term results (like in 2 weeks) of how its goingand get some real MPG numbers. Jose

http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2011/04/nissan-pathfinder-infiniti-qx4-recalled-for-rust-and-steering-problems.html Might want to read that. Jose

Friend, you took way too much off! You need only undo the 6 bolts on the axle side, and undo the hub part. Push and turn and wiggle it down through the control arm. Wala. Jose

VIP style that bimmer. That would be the shizznits for shizzles! Jose

Belt might be rubbing.

I'm still young. We had those Macintosh computers that were, like, bubbles with the monitor and computer all built into one thing. Horrible things... But in high school I never used a computer in school...hmm. I was busy taking fun electives (like electricians tech, auto body and auto shop. fun!) Class of 2005! Jose

I would look into stock Altima or Maxima Cams. Jose

The springs are only available from them (that's the actual lift!). But save money and get the other stuff elsewhere. NX4 indusustries (daddyrim on this forum) sells 1" spacers. Jose

is there a brand name on that bumper? Jose

no lift. just cut wells to fit the tires.

Black on black...NICE! Jose

Aloha! So I take it your in Hawaii? What part? Anyway. 1. The KYB GR-2 Struts are the best we have for our R50's. So good choice there. 2. Wow, crooked spring. Look at the top of the strut. The mount has 2 letters, 'L' and 'R'. The side the strut is on should have that letter towards the engine. (i.e. drivers side should have 'L' toward the engine.). The spring hat has a 'v' notch in it. This should be lined up with the before said letter. Hope this helps! Jose

So...you didn't get the black steelies then? Looks good, still! Jose

Here is the link to the pinned topic in the R50 section that Andrew did, http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23821 Jose

I'll bring this back. Car would be whats in my sig. 1993 Mazda RX-7 R1 CYM. 99 spec twins run in parallel, EVO 8 front brakes, Porsche rears, JIC Magic suspension...I could go on. (too bad she is sold ) I'd also love a 1983 RX-7 GSL with GSL-SE suspension, and a bridgported 13B 4port. Or a 73 RX-3 SP with peripheral ported 13B...braaap...braaaap...braaap. Uh-oh, need to change my pants... Truck...hmmm....Tough one. I like the idea of having an R50 with a VG36ET SAS'd on 37's. Yummy... But my friend has 2 SAS'd Tacomas sitting on 44's and 38's...Thats delicious... Jose

Photography classes?!?! (kidding). Looks like a hidden compartment for ninja kittens. Jose

Wait, what? From reading Mike Kojimas article, the VH45 pistons are .30 over, netting a VG34. So wouldn't .40 over make it a VG35? Damn it...I need to crunch numbers. Jose

No, I won't post there unless I've searched for a few weeks. haha. I just have a few posts there, but all bringing back old threads I've found from searching. And like kingman said, unless you bore the piston side of the con rod, you'll need to use the VG30DE(TT) rods. Those I have not had luck finding for a reasonable price. So my build will be: VG33 block bored .040 over (making it I believe a VG35...Ooh! Must check the numbers though) VG33 heads (maybe port and polished if i can find a shop to do it for under $600) VG33 crank (no point in changing this and my accessories, and this crank can hold a recorded over 600HP, so my N/A will be fine) VG30E cams from a WD And I must look into this oil pump from a 300ZX turbo auto. I may have to change my crank if I want to use this. Now, to save up! Jose

Haha. Yea, that was bad. A worst-case-scenario if you will. I was getting popping sounds and clunking over bumps. But, like I said, the NAPA ones I have are great! Jose

I just found my answer! these would be good to go! Now, if .030 makes it a 3.4L, what does .040 make it? Hmm. here is what i found from Z31performance.com http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10615&hilit=Boring+VG33E Jose