k9sar

kinda sounds like a clutch slipping/grabbing or she isn't firing on all cylinders.

some good info. I'm also looking to pickup a welder in the fairly near future as I will need to build some sliders. What's the fascination with wire feed vs ye old stick welder? Sounds like the wire feed may be easier to use but much more expensive.

I always use used oil cause there's always some handy right around where I'm installing the filter

coolant from the back of the engine might be a crack ro leak in your heater hose(s)

easiest solution is to keep her wet

same with mine. I had the injector leak code come on so I figured it was just a littpe crap in the line that kept it from shutting properly. Cycled through some good injector cleaner (can't recall the brand) then drove it hard for a few days to flush them out. After resetting the codes, it never came back.

using some basic logic, you can find most anything from nissan (not just pathys) from 94 thru 06

OK Steve... we all know that you're a serious off-road enthusiast but civics don't count as off-road (unless they're really muddy). Sorry about the business venture but congrats on the house deal.

I already ahve most of them

74k on an 89??? wow. Did the PO forget how to drive? My first thought is to check your fuel filter.

Rausch Creek is near there also. Making a run the weekend of the 16 and there's one in early Oct also

you could but it is recommended that you use a stud for the 300ZX. It's harder. Try a search and you may even come up with the part numebr cause I don't recall fofhand what it is.

mine did..... once

pics later but the list is: CD player Phone mount Dash cover cookie-sheet floor repair *yawn*

prolly not injectors. Hard to imagine all 6 clogging at once. Gotta be something in the fuel delivery system

I still have both heads and all the valves still in it. I had done an engine swap due to engine-bottom destruction but I kept the upper chit.

I think a couple of folks in here have done it. Chime in guys!!!

timing belt is under 20 bucks. I'd go ahead and replace it then see if she fires up. You may get lucky and not have any valve damage. If you want to check before starting it, pull your plugs and run a compression test on your cylinders. If the valves don't seat, you won't have compression. If you do have valve issues and want to tackle pulling the heads and replacing them, I may have parts for you that I can ship for 8 bucks (flat rate boxes are great) Mine's a 95 VG30E. Not sure what the 92 is but prolly the same valves. worst case, you spend 20 or so bucks and some knuckle-skin and she still won't work. At least then you'll know for sure.

well you're the one who posted that pic sly <--- looks around at all the noob's scrambling for the search button

I grabbed a spare EGR tube from the junkyard in anticipation of needing to lengthen mine for the headers.

<---- has image of Slick wearing a shirt that reads "ask me about my front bumpers"

reminds me of the time we had a full-size toyota camry cardboard standup from a local dealership and we put it on the train tracks to see if we could get the train to stop ummm... no, wait... that's what we WANTED to do. sorry

I went with the pacesetters cause they'll probably outlast my truck. Yea, the thorleys are better but I'm a cheapskate and got a good deal on the pacesetters from another forum member.

if you bent a valve, you'll not have compression etc. Get to your belt and take a look and let us know what you find. Additionally, take a crack at searching on timing belt or other keywords and you'll probably find detailed procs on what's involved (don't know where they are offhand but I've done it myself a couple times)

may be a t-belt. If so, you should probably start disassembly rather than crank it. VG30's are an interference engine and you chance damaging your valves and/or pistons. Pull the fan and t-belt cover and inspect it for damage or worse. That should tell you if that was the problem and... a t-belt is fairly cheap if you're a do-it-yourself kind-of person.