k9sar

solenoid is easy to tell if it's working... when you throw 12v to it (using jumpers), it should thunk nice and solid.

good question. The problem sounds to me like a timing or vacuum advance issue. perhaps the ecu has a screw or something that will alter the timing. I'll have to pull up my caR50 FSM and take a look

thought the trim level was part of the VIN.

check the timing

no. not normal. you can read 12V with no load but have virtually nothing when you apply load. Check your fusable link at the pos post of the battery. Troubleshooting a starter circuit is fairly easy as long as you do it systematically and understand how a starter works. The starter motor itself has a constant 12V supply from a big wire and is grounded through the housing and mounting bolts. The solenoid is grounded to the starter and takes it's 12V from a 'trigger' wire that comes from the ignition system. Turn the key to opn and get 12V (hopefully) The 12V to the solenoid does 2 things... it throws a lever which drives the start gear into the housing to engage with the flywheel AND it makes the connection between the constant hot and the windings on the starter motor. bench testing a starter can be done by running ground to the starter case, run hot to the lug on the starter then touching a jumper from the hot supply (or the lug) to the port on the solenoid. If you are just testing the solenoid, leave the hot off of the starter lug and just throw hot to the solenoid (click, gear extension but no spinning of the motor). Since it is very difficult to test the starter motor only, determination of it's well-being is made by checking the entire unit then just the solenoid. If the unit is not working but the solenoid is, the problem is in the starter motor itself and you should go look for my other posts which talk about how to clean/rebuild one. Anyway... If you assume a good battery and are not getting good strong 12V (or so) on the starter when you throw a load on it (like starting it), you have a bad connection somewhere between the battery and the starter post. If you are not getting good 12V (or so) on the trigger plug when you turn the key, there is a bad connection in the ignition circuit and you should look for my previous posts that discuss bypassing all that crap and jumpering from the ignition switch to the solenoid. If you are getting 12V on the plug, try putting a jumper cable from the plug to the solenoid. This wil let you get at the voltage going into the solenoid. 12 is good... much less is bad... if it cranks in this configuration, you have a bad connection of your plug to the solenoid (it happens with oil drippage etc). This is what the problem was with my first starter failure. rapid little clicks are a sign of lack of power but I forget exactly what causes the rapid clicking. Good luck systematic test is the key to success.

perhaps just to get access to stuff. I did it without

why are you dropping the front diff to do an engine swap? I don't recall doing so.

first shot through the head second shot from a bottle third through [end of clip] shots riddled throughout the body

yea... 'defend yourself' bust him in the back of the head with a baseball bat, tee off on his balls with a 3-iron several times, cut him up into little bloody pieces with a machette, cover the remains with gasoline and set fire to him. Then, just to make a point, piss on the ashes, pack the mess into a block and mail it to his significant other (probably the biker from prison)

hopefully he's behind bars getting his ass split by some 400 pound biker who smells like an overused outhouse on a sunny beach. perhaps the thought of returning to his lovefest (or loveFIST) may discourage him from repeat perfromances. If not, remember that you can dissolve a human body in sulfuric acid in only 2 days.

since our pathys are ... well... slightly underpowered, how about controlling the weight by using materials other than steel? Kevlar, carbon fiber, titanium, granite, whatever.

do you have a FSM by the way? came in handy during my swap

2 more than you think. need to get up on top of the bell housing with some extensions, u-joint sockets and a few cuss words. just a hint... I got to many things I couldn't normally get my hands on by going long. If you can find a spot where you can see it, you should be able to beg/borrow/steal enough extensions to reach it. you need to go through the starter home and get at the torque convertor-to-flywheel bolts before you unbolt the housing. Follow the steps in the AT section of the FSM but you don't have to remove the AT like it says. You may need to unbolt it and definately support it but with some angle and cussing, the engine should be able to slide forward enough to get it off the tranny (did I mention you MUST remove the radiator and fan and crap from the front?)

I actually know someone who 'fixed' his frame (an old caddy) by filling the hollow rusty frame with concrete. if it bothers you to look at it, don't. bondo and paint will hide it well

I got at mine from the wheel well and from underneath with a bunch of long extensions.

I have one in a box on a shelf in my garage... does that count?

organ donors help the rest of us who are too cheap to buy new. :-)

could be the wire/circuit from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. That has been a source of issue. Symptoms are inconsistent start but battery checks out fine. Replace starter and it still is intermittent. I've posted the diagnosis a few times as well as the solution. Try a search on 'starter' and my username. You might find some interesting reading. oh... and WTF happened to that fuse???!!! holy crap!

If I recall correctly, you will need to remove them to get adequate clearance

get at the motor, disassemble and clean. Look for shorts. If fried, buy a new but with the motor disengaged, you should be able to put the window up by hand. If not fried, clean the brush dust out of the grooves and make sure the brushes seat and make contact. Not hard to do and could save you $$$

do you hear the motor at all when you try to put it up? If so, I'd grab it and pull up while someone holds the button. If no motor sound, I'd pop the inner panel and try to fix the motor (just like fixing a starter motor).

essential feature for all bumpers

rear hatch. common problem and easy fix. search (cause I don't recall the link offhand)

the arm will take a little pulling (use a gear puller if you have one) They are on pretty tight to the splines. there should eb info in the FSM for taking that crap apart

does the purple oily substance match in color to the AT fluid on your dipstick? If so, you have a leak in your AT cooler which is built into your radiator. If not, you may have a leak in your AC. The purple may be a leak-detector that was added to the system.