Precise1

You might find some 31" tires for under $125 taxed, mounted and balanced, but I seriously doubt they would be good tires. There is a tire thread in the review section you might want to read through for some ideas. B

Got it, thank you. B

Oh, I'm not sure where the VIN on the motor would be, but I thought that was required by law for anti-theft-traceability? I know motorcycles are that way... B

No, that is a blur, a caliper and an upper ball joint. I believe you that you have a leak, that is easy to determine, I just find it hard to believe that it brakes normally or well. Step one, replace that line and if they aren't too expensive, do the other side as well. Bleed, check the adjustment of the rear shoes (or do you have rear disk?), and see how the brakes work then. B

Well, the Thorleys are the only ones that are smog legal, in California anyway. Apparently you can get the EGR bung in the EE headers which might be good enough where you are, I don't know your local laws. My pathy is currently in the garage on jackstands with Thorleys mounted so I think I can help you figure this out. Can you take pictures of your T-bar mounts (not too close) front and rear with measurements of how far apart they are and maybe something off of the frame or cross member? I'll compare them to mine and I can take pictures of the header clearances as well. Since it is a 2wd, I'm assuming you don't have a body lift... B

I didn't realize the T-bars were located differently on 2wd VS 4wd, that almost doesn't make sense. Do you need to deal with smog laws where you are? That would limit you to choice #2 right off the bat. B

Sorry, just saw this now. I have no idea what a 3 pill linear is so... B

It looks like you already have some decent rims, so the PTO could be handy. Which could you sell for more? B

You are welcome, I enjoyed it and learned things as well. B

*snort* No, but I haven't searched. That smells like a standard answer, so I'd get some verification on the claims if possible. Remember, you generally get what you pay for... Your brake line has a hole that you know of? And you drive it and it stops? Are you just trolling? I'd worry about the front end and timing belt long before that. And work on that as well? I recommend slowing down and deciding what makes sense to do first. B

Yes, some companies do rebuild them but I have no direct sources to share. I doubt it is something you want to do unless you have good mechanical experience, place to work and some time. As for the timing belt, there is a write-up in the Garage/How To section about the timing belt that covers it all. Yes, replacing some seals is recommended, up to thermostat, bypass hose, water pump, etc. Everyone has a different take on it, but I changed everything so I do not expect to touch anything for another 100k miles. Your recommended timing belt interval is every 60k miles BTW. As for what else, get it steering straight, braking well, the timing belt changed and I recommend changing all fluids to set a maintenance schedule. B

Probably the easiest/cheapest is to source one from a junkyard. Good used ones can be found, but there is obviously some pre-screening required. Do not buy one that doesn't have some sort of warranty/return policy, but it does sound like almost any replacement would be better than the one you have. You can make slight adjustments to tighten them up but it is a little touchy and time consuming; we'll go into that later (or read the FSM). You might want to look into the classifieds here for a truck part-out or post a thread in the parts wanted section. I had my first pathy removed on a flat bed minus the steering box so that isn't an issue. B

The links to a free FSM is pinned in the Garage section. Shocks are pretty easy, basically 2 bolts each. The trickiest part is getting them lined up if they are gas filled (they will try to expand), but use of a jack or lever makes it achievable. B

Sometimes I want to know the why or science behind it. Then there is the coffee I drank in the afternoon (and why I usually don't)... It was worth it to learn the equasion though. As a fine teacher once told me, there is no need to memorize answers if you learn how to derive them. Here, I'll throw you a bone: Machine screw thread OD. (Size # x .013) + .06 0-80=.06" OD 6-40=.138" OD 10-32=.190" OD Of course these are theoretical values, actual threads will be .005-.01" smaller for clearance/poorly formed thread See how much fun we are having? Want the metric thread core hole size equasion? B

Ok, the BCI is just a size chart code: 24 260x173x225 LxWxH http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/bcigroup.html I picked out this battery because it is the closet to your specs and is the same size (larger cells could mean more amp hours) http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NBD7524_0269022338 BAT 7524 Battery BCI # : BCI #24 Battery Cold Cranking Amps @ 0 Degrees F : 600 Battery Cranking Amps @ 32 Degrees F : 750 Battery Load Test Amps : 300 Battery Posts Type : Top Mount Battery Reserve Capacity (Minutes) : 110 Odds are your exact model isn't made anymore, and here is a tidbit I ran across... so I looked up this... cross referenced it here and selected the Exide 24-75 as the comparison and after that, I couldn't find an amp-hour rating. RC (reserve capacity) seems to be the preferred standard due to the many variables in calculating AHs. If I had to take a guess, it would be around 50-65 amp hours.http://www.interstatedealers.com/IBCatalog/common/comp_x_ref.pdf Then I found this gem!! So, assuming the RC of 110 (the battery I cross referenced to) the amp hours are 71. My guess was a bit low. Ok, all that said, you battery is just a basic lead acid battery and any trickle charger should suffice, it is more a factor of how long you leave it on to recharge. I believe that only the AGM type of battery has specific charging requirements, and that they want more current. I have a 6amp charger that I use on lead acid and AGM alike without issues. B Oh, then there is this... If you care to educate yourself...http://www.chem.hawaii.edu/uham/bat.html

Looks all good from here. You over reacted a bit, then apologized and we all move on. For the most part, people posting are ultimately trying to help but being that we hail from all over the globe and from different cultures (or lack of ), there's bound to be occasional misunderstandings. We generally don't have internet warriors around here, or at least not for very long so defensiveness is usually unnecessary. Have you jacked up the front end and examined the steering linkage/suspension bushings yet? Some times the problem is isolated to a few components and it isn't terribly hard/expensive to fix. I would set the ride height where it is appropriate/level with the T-bars, jack up the front end and try to isolate a cause/starting place to address the slop and when that has been repaired, then have it aligned. B

I agree. My experience is that the stock Nissan cooling system is more than sufficient, regardless of outside temperatures, if it is in proper working order. I have not owned or driven a VQ though, my info is based on Z24i, VG30 and VG33. You might want to look into an aftermarket tranny cooler as well... B

You'll be back. The pathy is still under your roof and I've never met a teenage boy who keeps the RPM at 3000. Regardless, as was said, you are welcome to say Hi any time, Pathy or not. Or you can find a cheap WD21 and build it up for yourself... B

How old was the coolant and what percentage mix? Is there any scale on the inside of the radiator? Do you see flow when it is hot and running? Is there dirt/bent fins that could obstruct flow on either the condensor or radiator? How hot was the tranny and do you have an aftermarket tranny cooler? If not and it is plumbed through the radiator, you are actually adding heat to the radiator from the tranny. The fan clutch really only matters at about 30mph or less, the rest of the time it is airflow from the vehicle speed that cools. Obviously test/replace the cap and go from there. Also, your thermostat might be failing or partially obstructed. B

Every sensor, relay and brain on it. If you don't use it, someone else will. All engine parts you can like MAF, fuel rails/pressure regulator/injectors, starter, alternator, etc. Some interior like arm rests, center console, switches, and definitely the dash cluster and signal/lights switch assembly. Welcome to NPORA, home of the scavengers... B

Truck nuts hanging from the rear view mirror instead of the reailer hitch for that homey feel... B

I'd fix the vehicle. It is still cheap, and you know what you have. You say that they can run 250k miles so you have 80k left, allow me to correct that. They are expected to run at least 250k and if not, it is usually due to abuse/lack of maintenence. In your scenario, assuming a little time and place to work, I recommend getting a lower mileage replacement motor and installing it. It's almost the same work as the heads, will have some sort of warranty, might come with all the components on it so you will have spares to set aside or sell, and will give you time to fix and store/sell the current motor or part it out. B

That is a lot better but it is still hard to tell and I haven't had mine off/apart for a long time to reference to. I keep looking at the corroded center piece, is that what you are talking aboot? Have you contacted Warn? I have heard of them replacing parts unconditionally before. If not, can it be disassembled and cleaned? Is it corroded in place? Sorry if that doesn't help much. B

Torsion bars are a type of torsion spring, defined by axial torque or load. Is too a spring... The opposite of how you put it on them. See below... Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual yet? B

I agree, it is why I removed mine. Good to know. My spare flares are no longer for sale and will be boxed and stored in the shed. B