Precise1

If it is in the wiring, hopefully you can just splice in past the bad part. Depends where it fails I guess. I'm sure you don't have to replace everything though. It isn't that much to read, it is more that you want a copy for yourself (trust me) and I can't recall the exact values... B

I like it, using your noggin! I have a pump somewhere as well, but last few times I used a previously emptied quart bottle with a removable nozzle top and 1' of hose. Fill up the bottle, put the nozzle on, jam the hose on the nozzle, put the other end in the hole and squeeze! Works great for filling the low capacity items with the side benefit of knowing how much you have put in it, but filling a tranny would suck. Besides, you do that through the shifter hole anyway! B

Yes, like he said! The OHM test is listed in the FSM, available for download free, pinned in the Garage section. IIRC, it is something like 9-14 ohms... Make sure to test hot and cold as I had one that only failed when hot. Also, since it is intermittent, check the wiring as well. Yes, injectors are to be color matched when replaced. As for the ones on the drivers side, If possible, I would replace them all since you have to pull the intake. The ones on the passenger side are easy to get to so they aren't a big deal. Changing the injector is pretty easy, just release the fuel pressure (pull the fuel pump fuse and run it until it dies), remove the retaining cap (be careful, the screws are soft and like to strip), gently twist/pull the old injector out, twist/push the new one in after lubricating it with some gas and be careful not to damage the seal. If your cylinder fills with gas (park so that side is highest to minimize it), remove the coil wire and briefly crank the engine to clear the gas (before installing the injector). B

What you talkin' 'bout Willis? There is no filter or AC in the garage! Ya don't have to take it all personal just because you live in hell. Hot is hot and wheeling is wheeling. If it is too hot to go wheeling, there it is... B

Door seals, but that is about it. Sounds like you are ready to drown the sucker! B

Cool! How does the compass work? It must be electronic... B

A little rought, but it will work. Not bad for a budget snorkel. What diameter pipe did you use? B

If it did, the outside air would as well. Sure, it can be nice to have filtered air, but whatever, it is just another item to show how weak and lazy people have become. Need to go wheeling with the windows up, air filtered and AC on? Do us all a favor and just stay home... B

^That is a good deal for anyone close enough to pick it up! You'd have to pry it from my cold, dead hands... I am lucky I was able to buy it locally, used for 1/2 price and don't ever expect that to happen again. Sorry, Bud, you are on your own! You are on the right track with modifying the D21 version though... B

Cool, thanks! I like the pre-cleaner link at the bottom as well. That would be good in some circumstances... Does this one have a provision for a pre-filter to be installed in the intake behind the grill? 3", eh? That can probably be necked down. I can't recall what I measured it at, but the MAF is the choke opint in the intake system and it is much smaller than that. B

Here, this should do it. As you can see, mine does have some additional bracing and support in the form of a second backing plate welded over the extension on the inside and a few other braces. Not the prettiest, but highly effective and hidden; it is stronger now than it was before the 2" extension. Note in the pictures the difference in the height of the extension welded in? Mine was 2", GrimGreg installed a 3". I'd buy the bumper (mount it if the truck is lifted), measure the difference, remove the bumper and add in an extension of that amount. Any additional bracing should be done then as well, you'll see. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26160-arb-pictures/?hl=bumper%2Bmodify&do=findComment&comment=480700 B Oh, sorry, I forgot to mention that the top mounts need to be cut off, flipped and rewelded as well as seen in the pictures.

Yes, that will work and they should still be made. The only issue is that the Hardbody 4x4s have roughly a 2" body lift from the factory so you either need the same amound lift on the Pathfinder, or you need or have the mount arms modified in height which is not difficult or costly. B

Which head did you get and where? Is it the one with drains? What diameter? B

x2 no need to touch the pan unless you want to clean things out. Another nice thing to do it to verify the level before hand, then drain it all into a pan or bucket (only about 1/2 will come out), measure the amount that was drained, and then put in exactly that much new fluid. B (after re-installing the drain plug of course)

Power wise, do you think it is because you are getting greater and more immediate flow, or just because it is a fresh system compared to the old one? Yeah, a better Y pipe would certainly make a huge difference. I know you can weld, so have you considered piecing together your own? I know Tungsten did out of off the shelf parts, and no slight on him, but if he can do it, you can! David is... David, and yeah, from what I have seen miscommunications and/or ruffles feathers occur. I fully agree that when the stock system is shot, it is a good time to do swaps like this. I am no fan of the TBI set up and would never want to own one here in California! I don't have an issue with the carb swap, I just see it as a lot of work and expense without understanding the benefits. I'm not worried about poluting either, I know you aren't the 'hack the cat off to go faster' kid mentality. A well tuned carb can run quite clean as well; I'm fairly sure the reason for the FI swap is the whole OBD2+ requirements that wouldn't work well with a carb. LOL about the EMP, but you are right. I've been looking at old trucks and that would be one of the benefits... B

^exactly. I had the 31x10.5" BFG AT KOs on the stock steelies (6" wide IIRC) on my first Pathy, and they were a bit pinched like that. BFG states rim widths of 7-9". IIRC, I ran mine at 28PSI front, 26PSI rear unloaded/28PSI loaded for best ride/footprint/wear. B

Very clever! I have these which have magnets on the back and build in hooks and are quite similar to what you made. http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/5-pc-grip-led-light-kit.aspx?a=789156 And these keep me from having to hold a light as well... http://www.energizer.com/flashlights-lighting/flashlights/headlight/Pages/trailfinder-3-led-headlight.aspx B

Looks like a good job! May I ask why though? I don't understand the benefits... B

I trimmed a little off of each sleeve and just compressed the bushing, although it might not hurt to shorten the bushing slightly as well. My thought was that the bushing would swell in diameter and be tighter on the sleeve and in UCA bore. I also cut grease grooves in the OD of the busing and drilled a couple of small holes to the center as well, so I could lube them via the zerk fittings. I could have done a better job with it, but I used a lathe at work and the truck was at home so I couldn't cut and test fit. B

Honestly, I don't know the Bilstiens well enough to recommend which one, I just know that people here have talked favorably about them. And yes, I would get 5 rims/tires. More $, obviously, but I think it is worth it... B

Who are you? What do you want? What are you doing on my screen? Yep, my Pathy has a 2" body lift and 2.5" suspension lift with 31" tires. I didn't want to try to sky jack it to fit 33" tires and make it slower with worse mileage. It looks like it sits right to me... Yes, you will need longer shocks to allow for full articulation, but you can drive 'normally' with the stock length as well. I recommend you measure from the ground to the body crease at all 4 wheels and write the numbers down somewhere. Do your suspension lift and then re-measure. The difference in height will be how much longer the shocks need to be (only in the back though). I can't recall offhand but there are several threads you can look up that have all the lengths listed. Yes, you can get 2" with the stock bars easily. I did at least that and I have that sick (heavy) front bumper. As Nunya said, it is an ARB bull bar modified to fit my 2" body lift, and yeah, it is pretty solid! 265/75/16 should come out to be 31-31.5" diameter which is stock on some Pathys so no, you shouldn't have to lift to get them to fit. BUT, depending on the width of the rims and the backspacing, there might be some rubbing unless you go a little higher. I can't tell from here... I hear people say good things about the Bilsteins, but there are several good brands out there. One option is to go with the adjustable Ranchos so you can tune them to your preference. Again, there are a few threads that go into great detail about shock options so I suggest you search for them. If you can't find the info, let me know and I'll try... B Damn, that is a good looking Pathy up there!

Good point. I just default to blue, just in case... B

Standard 173psi Minimim 128psi Difference limit 14psi As per the FSM, section EM, page 8 which also has all the recommended test parameters as well. B

You didn't cut the sleeve down, did you? The standard proceedure is to take about 1/16"-3/32" off of the OAL. I took almost 1/8 and it was a bit much... Here, read this. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26143-unexceptable-tolerances/?hl=%2Buca+%2Bbushing+%2Bsleeve B Can you reuse the old sleeves? Are there even sleeves from the factory? I can't remember...

Exactly, and make sure not to suck any air into the master cylinder, keep the reservoir well filled. B