Precise1

Not too much, the clear coat is peeling so they need reconditioning. Not hard, but takes time and effort. Shipping could kill the deal though. PM me about it... B

That looks really clean! I have one in the same color. How many miles on it? B

Yes and yes, but... check out the difference between the link and The Pimp's link (Alkorahil). http://www.partsfornissans.com/parts/1995/Nissan/Pathfinder/XE/?siteid=214024&vehicleid=92803&section=ENGINE&group=CAMSHAFT%20%26%20TIMING http://www.factorynissanparts.com/parts/1995/Nissan/Pathfinder/XE/?siteid=214081&vehicleid=92803&section=ENGINE&group=CAMSHAFT%20%26%20TIMING B

LOL Then why did you put it on? Sorry, but I'm going to tell you to search for that one, it is well documented. The one thing I will point out is that if you get swivel barb fitting, ditch them, they will leak. Replace with solid barbs, get everything in place and make that connection last. B

Yep, and I used some Permatex Copper to stick the gasket to the heads since there were no studs to hang it on. It works just fine both ways in my book... B

Plenty of room, don't worry about it. Air is an excellent insulator and most of the time it it will be moving through that gap and the fuel flowing through the hose will actually cool it as well. Mine are almost that close to unwrapped headers and the oil lines for my filter relocation are closer than what you displayed. I recommend you drive it and prove it to yourself, just for peace of mind. Open the hood after a drive when everything is nice and hot and feel what it is like... B

^Exactly. Pros and cons to both, but the bolts are cheaper and more available... B

I have 5. B

I'll see if I can get a weight for you, but just off hand, I'd have to say F-ing heavy. It will basically weight the same as ARB Deluxe Bar Nissan Pickup 1991-97 (3438050) I used the stock T-bars with the bumper without issue but I can't tell you how much I had to crank the T-bars, if at all. I do have Sway-Away bars to install when I install the winch, another 100lbs... B

Close, but not really. Sorry, I tried... Good luck. B

Thank you. There is also a unit meant for a GM that has 4 prongs instead of two. You just grind 2 of them off and you are set. I can't recall the part number, but I know it has been posted as well. B

I will be posting actual dimensions shortly. Yes, the upper mounts in the second picture bolt directly to the stock bumper bracket mounts. It would be easy and a good idea to reinforce those stock mounts. The real strength is from the lower mounts though, where it bolts to the tow hook mounts and the tie down points. B

You almost certainly have a leak there, directing the gasses upward. It is a bit close to the floor board but isn't an issue if it isn't leaking. Check the flange for leaks and the pipe for a hole. Fix that and then attach a piece of sheet metal above the pipe and problem solved... B

Calmini sells Moog? Moog is generally considered a quality product, and yes, don't skimp on steering parts. Here is a recent thread that is somewhat of an answer. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37407-moog-tie-rods-and-center-link/ B

Ok, 1/2 way there as promised... There are those pesky mounts! I have the bumper kicked up so the flat mounting surface is level and everything else will go off of that since that is probably the easiest was to build it. I probably won't get to taking measurements until Monday and then I get to see how well I remember my CAD skills, or where I put the software... I'm hoping to have a basic mount design by the end of the week with the rest of the of it to follow shortly. I'm realy digging the hoist, it makes things sooo much easier! B

That is silly! WD-40 is a specific formula (where the 40 comes from). You can't just change the formula and put WD-40 on it because it isn't! Call it WD-52 or whatever... I walked around my Pathy to get to the mini fridge in the garage. I drove the wife's Pathy to go get groceries... B

It should, but it may be it has some trapped air. I've learned that bench bleeding is an important step. B

On an R50? I was going by the manifold statement, not a non-existent Y pipe scenario... B

So you want a DeLorean? Because that is about all that won't rust away where they spread salt... Actually, our R50 probably looked a lot like that when it was new, with the same faux wood and cream leather interior before it got dirty and sun faded; it is still rather nice. Absolutely not what I would choose for a wheeler but it is pleasant to get groceries in... B

Please, don't ever confuse WD-40 with a penetrating oil, it is a Water Displacement formula that also serves as a light duty oil and sticker remover. Use something like PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, etc. or you might as well just save the WD-40 and just pee on it. Seriously! Penetrating oil may not have worked in your application (sounds rusted solid), but you didn't give it a real chance either. B

LOL Not as badly as you think apparently... Sorry, I wasn't trying to call you out, but I don't see a lot of evidence of voltage stabilizers making a car run better. Which is why audio guys install dedicated capacitors, no? Not a 'woofer' here so my lights nor audio dim... I pulled the ARB and is measurificating! B

Have you tried just snugging the bolts first? B

Yes, sorry, I didn't take that into account as your English is better than some born in the US. I will be removing my bumper today and will take pictures as well, so I will have plenty of information for you shortly... B

^Exactly. M8x1.25x25-30mm socket head cap screw IIRC. B

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jK-NcRmVcw Sorry, couldn't help it... B