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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Precise1
    So when it stalls (stumbles, not dying) and you pull over, what happens then? Does it rev back up when you feather the throttle, do you shut it off and restart? What action ends the stumbling? Operating under the the assumption that all the parts you replaced are working properly/were set properly I would check the connection/wire to the ECU temp sensor, the TPS output over the entire range, the connection to the ECU it's self (loose or corroded), the wires to the fuel pump, most wires/connectors under the hood and maybe the fuel pressure again (34 psi idle, 43 the moment it is fully open). It seems like an intermittent electrical issue... B
  2. Precise1
    Agreed, I can't think of any reason why one bank runs richer than the other (especially to foul the plugs) other than if one of the cross over tubes was clogged and one side had pressure/the other starved, but that is unlikely, especially since you had the rails off. B
  3. Precise1
    Didn't he go into considerable detail in the thread? I'm sure you can PM or email him with any questions and he will tell you. Mechanic/machinist/shooter good old boy, you can count on him. B
  4. Precise1
    Or LAM 17, it is like DOM 16 but much cheaper. Apparently Mexico made it too. You can get it in front of Home Depot... (just a joke!) B
  5. Precise1
    Yep, they are way overbuild... What is a few hundrem more pounds on your rig anyway, you won't even notice! B
  6. Precise1
    Yep, it was this info you posted that I was thinking of. I'm pretty sure it was in a different thread at first (or different place in this one). B
  7. Precise1
    What? Just going by what my eyeballs tell me! That would make a bit of a difference (the 32" inch), but maybe not alloys as you are out in bat rock country. Perhaps just more narrow steel rim, the minimum to mount the 32" tires as a compromise? There is a reason I run 31" tires on my WD21; it still drives well with acceptable power, and I can tow with it with the stock motor. I'd much rather invest in under armor than 1" of more clearance... B
  8. Precise1
    Looking good! I like the width/backspacing of those rims, they seem to fit perfectly! Do you recall the width/backspacing? I know the center caps say Vision, but they also look exactly like Cragar Soft 8s, which are available from Summit Racing. A FYI for people, Summit just charges a flat rate shipping/handling fee so when I ordered my 5 rims, it was $11.95 to have them delivered to my doorstep. Pretty hard to beat... Holy wheel weights though! They didn't get that re-tread centered very well, did they? B
  9. Precise1
    If you look at the first picture, you can see that the mounts just clamp on to the tubing with a V underneath a V bolt (modified U bolt) that runs through it. You've got 2 nuts per mount so position them were you want them, snug them, mount the jack and check for fitment/clearance and tighten them down fully. The jack mounts via the holes in it's body so you have a lot of latitude in mounting it. B
  10. Precise1
    No problem Bud, not trying to shut you down or anything, just adding what I think I know. I'm all for following any possible trails... Sadly, the WD21 Pathfinders have been recognized as being quite capable, reliable, and easy to steal. If it is one that looks well maintained, it is more fo a target. Often they wind up on farms/ranches (not registered) or driven South. Just like I advise every WD21 owner to put a good bumper on it, I'm suggesting people look into a low-jack type system to be able to track it. I plan to do this and insure mine for purchase price+all additional parts prices (more than I care to list). Welcome to our 'society'. B
  11. Precise1
    That isn't it. The Mr Jim truck has a tire carrrier and no ARB lockers IIRC. Good eye though, it is damn close. I don't know about the IP storing, that would be an Admin thing, but I do know Mr Jim hasn't frequented the site for quite a while so it is unlikely that is where the address was obtained, much less information of how the vehicle was stored or guarded. B
  12. Precise1
    Well, what I meant is to check the voltage with a multimeter, just VDC (volts direct current) when the engine is running, and when it isn't (with the ignition off). Anyone with a meter can do this in minutes, so save you a trip to the shop. It is more the state of charging that should be verified, the battery being new shouldn't be an issue. B
  13. Precise1
    Yep! JamesRich did exactly that and at last report, it worked well... B
  14. Precise1
    If the wife likes it, then it is a win! I hope you get and it works out like you want. We'd love to have an in depth owner review as well. Then we want to take it wheeling... B
  15. Precise1
    Because one of the things that the wheel support bolts to isn't flexing all over the place anymore? Good, sounds like they did their job. Yes, definitely tackle the rust on the inside now, it shouldn't be too hard. I don't know if it is available up there, but look for Permatex Rust Treatment, it is an easy but useful item... N
  16. Precise1
    Agreed, and yes to the distilled water, many people get lazy or forget that part. Please do check the charging voltage VS the static voltage (engine running VS ignition off) to verify that you are getting 14-14.5 volts running and 12.5+ off. It is unusual, but sometimes alternators over charge and cook the batteries (I have seen them bulging and/or smoking before!). The test only takes a few minutes so it's worth the trouble... B
  17. Precise1
    Smart man! I'm also enjoying the sweet, delicious wiggle room, but only because I have wished for it in the past... B
  18. Precise1
    I would advise getting the engine to TDC on cyl #1 and then following the write up in the How To section, it was written by a Nissan mechanic who knows his job. (also check that the dizzy rotor is pointing to just before #1 electrode) Once you know that is all lined up as it should be, if it still sounds weird/doesn't want to start, it is probably time to do a compression check. If it was way out, you might have hit some valves, these are interference engines... B
  19. Precise1
    My opinion is that it would be a bad idea, but you can talk about it here. We won't tell her... What year are you planning to buy? B
  20. Precise1
    That would make it about the 19th or 20th of May, so it was gone for 2 weeks before anyone noticed? What did the police have to say when you reported it stolen? When is the last time you saw it? The more info the better... X2 on a recent pict post. B
  21. Precise1
    I'd look in the FSM in the EC section, the troubleshooting guide for bogging (sometimes it has tests you wouldn't think of) but I'd also start out by checking for vacuum leaks and testing the TPS. B
  22. Precise1
    You can get a link to the FSM from a thread pinned in the Garage section. That will tell you codes, trouble shooting, repair/replacement and everything else you could want. (don't have that manual so can't get the code definitions any easier than you can) B
  23. Precise1
    Exactly. You will need to loosen the stop bolt, then turn the tensioning bolt counter clockwise quite a bit to get enough play to remove the belt. You may want to use a speed handle or a slow air gun/ratchet/cordless drill. It is a good idea to lubricate the threads first, and you may want to loosen the pivot bolt for the PS unit, depending on movement. Be careful tightening it back up, it is easy to over tension belts with this system. B
  24. Precise1
    Depends how high you have gone and if you have re-routed yet, IIRC. Regardless, the R50 section is where this will get input, so... B
  25. Precise1
    I'm going to move this to the R50 section where it will get far more attention... B
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