Precise1

This should tell you everything you need to know. It is in the garage/How To section, a good place to look first. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/5325-90-95-pathfinder-body-lift/ B

Yes, that is what I meant, and thanks for the detailed response. I will go and crawl under a few Pathys tomorrow to see if what I was thinking is true. I've changed a few springs in both vehicles, and have it in my head that it was the case. I don't know that it is a big deal either, just curious. Tomorrow... B

Good job Steve! One Q... No coil end stop? IIRC, the bottom seat for a WD21 (and r50?) is clocked for the coil end, about 1/4 loop... B

I rolled down the windows. B

No, the PO insisted it had been done before we bought it at 150k, and it is about to hit 180k. I'll be doing it at 200k... They are so similar that the write up in the Garage/How To section is actually on a VG33, not a VG30; it doesn't make much of a difference. Honestly, if you can't work around/figure out the small differences, you shouldn't be doing it in the first place. Yes, I have changed T-belts on my WD21 and an inlaws R50... B

Wow, makes the interior look good too! I put 1.21 gallons in the tank... B

What you get as factory Nissan parts, make sure you get them from Rob (Alkorahil) at www.factorynissanparts.com, he'll have about the best prices around. I got everything from him for about $250. Not bad for maintenance every 100k miles. (I changed the water pump as well because you have to take the belts of to get to it) B

Both my '95 XEs had/have it so Adam must be correct. Another reason the '94 & '95 4 doors are better... B

It will still work fine, I'm just surprised they included that one in the package. Why fab one when you should be able just to buy one? I recall that once the mold is made they should be able to be ordered. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31242-pillar-gauge-pod/?hl=%2Bgauge+%2Bpillar B

Ahh, another reason 4 doors are better... Thanks for the clarification though. B

Well, that definitely means penetrant and hammers! B Looks like a large puller might work with those three tabs on the OD?

Well, if the holes are rusted out, it is probably rust holding the drum on. 2 options I can think of is to hit the drum on the face right by the holes with a hand sledge fairly hard, but alternating from one side to the other. That might break it loose, and penetrant might be a good idea as well. I'm pretty sure those threaded holes are M8x1.25 which equals .315Dx.0492P. a 5/16-18 thread equals .3125Dx.0555P so probably close enough to chase out the threads for that short distance, otherwise drill and tap, but it will be hard to get sufficient and full thread depth in the thin metal when it is pressed ip against a face like that so I'd try hammering first... B

Have fun and be safe. Keep the WD21 and lift the X! B

Don't you have a warning light that the carrier is not properly secured? B

Sorry, I can't recall the brand I bought when I only replaced the #1 cylinder on the R50. I'm pretty sure it was a 'cheapo' for around $70 tthough and I bought it on line. Yes, mixing is not a good idea, and I have heard this from mechanics and parts guys. Apparently there are some combos that work acceptably, but why go there? If I was you, I would buy two new injectors of the same color you have and 6 (or 7) O-ring kits. I would have the 5 old injectors cleaned and tested and would install the two new and the one newer/used on the drivers side under the plenum. Out of the 5 tested, 3 should be good enough to reinstall on the passenger side where it is easy to get to, with maybe 1 or 2 spares. Should any of the old ones fail, you know how to check and swap them so it is an easy repair. This should save you some $ and keep you from having to tear things apart again... B

Thank you for that! That is quite a deal for the filter/gauge kit! I believe I spent more than that piecing it together and still had to make a T for the sender unit. Only I am a little surpirsed by the temp range on the gauge, it seems to be more for oil than ATF. You don't want to be at/over 200/220 deg for very long as it degrade the fluid very quickly! Again, there has been some discussion on the 'right 'way to plumb a cooler, and generally most people go with the inlet on the bottom or both ports on the top, but I have heard it doesn't matter as well. No instructions with the cooler? I have also heard some coolers are directional as well, so make sure that isn't the case with yours. Otherwise, looks good to me! Where do you plan to put the gauge? B

Yes! B

In all honesty, while that sucks, you got hit by the best guy possible! Hats off to him for not being a jerk... Also, there isn't much damage from what I can tell, most of it is just tearing the plastic and lights off. Hell, some guys just take that off anyway. Depending on the check and your needs, you should be able to get a nice bumper made that will make this a thing of the past (or just have the plastic replaced). Don't worry, she will live on... B

Of course not. That one looks to be about 7.5x11" and has to be 3/4" thick to fit there without mods. I have a 6x11x3/4" mounted solo with a temp gauge and on hot days going over local passes, it would hit 180 degrees and still be climbing going down the other side. Too hot in my book! I have one I took out of a Ford Explorer, stock of course, that measures 7.5x11x3/4" that I plan to mount and run the same way; after the radiator cooler and filter. The filter will make sure the radiator doesn't clog, the radiator will warm the tranny on cold mornings and do a better job of maintaining the tranny temp with the cooler taking care of the extra heat under load. I might even install a thermal switch if that doesn't do what I want. It is worth it to me not be swapping trannys... FYI, a Hayden 9.5x11x3/4" plate style cooler is rated up to 5,000lbs, so that is barely adequate alone and not at all excessive. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-678 The one you had mounted when desert racing class 5, that was that same size on a Pathfinder, it was mounted solo and you had a temp gauge installed? What temp did it run at? Everyone has different mounting preferences. I prefer the sideways mount with the inlet at the bottom so there is no chance to trap air, but I have also read that the line pressure is sufficient to make that a non issue. I don't know what is right, but I prefer to play it safe and it allowed better esposure for both the cooler and radiator with my winch bumper IIRC. You are welcome. Like I said above, I'm convinced that is the best overall way to do it and plan to change my system to match. It should work well... When you do get the temp system set up, please post what you did with the sender and gauge. There are a few different ways to do it, and it will help people to be able to see what you did. Congrats and good luck with the lift BTW. B

x3, those long skinny funnels... Looks good! Where did you put the temp gauge? Did you plumb through the radiator still and just add the cooler, or did you bypass the radiator part? I ask because that might not be large enough as a stand alone unit... B

Thank you, I looked but there was no 'cruise control' section. It does say that on the button though. B

Wow, those screens look like crap! But then again, at 200k, they have driven around the world 8 times... I'd change your fuel filter before re-installing as well, unless you have done so recently. B

Washed it... B

When you try to activate it, does the light come on? Check for vacuum leaks to and at the diaphram as well. I've never worked on this system so I don't know it first hand, but I'm sure it is listed in the FSM somewhere... B

There is a little metal cap with 2 screws on either side that I'm sure you have taken off. Other than that, yes, the injectors are just a tight fit with 2 o-rings. You might want to consider a little penetrant around the diameter, you might have crud and crust holding it in place. I had luck rotating them back and forth as I pulled to get them out, other than one that the plastic top begain rotating independently of the metal botton in the fuel rail cup, so don't force it too much. Make sure to release the fuel pressure before you remove the injector. You might get a lot of gas down in that cylinder that you will want to clear before you try starting it. Injectors are color coded with a dab of paint, make sure to get a replacement of the same color. Use new o-rings when installing the injector, and you want to lubricate them first (gas is fine) and be careful, a member split an O-ring installing an injector and had to do it all over again. B