Precise1

Well, POR15 is the best way to do it and you can get a sample kit for about $30 that will cover that area and you will still have plenty left over. I treated mine with permatex rust treatment. This link will explain... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...485&hl=Permatex Here is a link on the POR15 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5534 Here is a general rust treatment thread... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5496&hl=rust Let us know what you used... Good luck !! B

Thanks Bob. Actually, when comparing the photos, I'd say the holes are basically the same size, just somewhat different configurations... Your fix may have taken longer, but it's the right (read better) way to do it. I'll have to revisit mine next year... If you could recall the name of the fireproof foam you used, that would be helpful !! Good news about sandwiching the two peices of stainless, the outer one seems to act as a heat shield, and with the air gap between, there is virtually no transer of heat between the two. After a drive yesterday, I touched the top plate and it was hardly warm !! :cool2: I figured it would work like that, but not that successfully. B

Yes, it could be a poor power or ground connection. How long has it been doing this ? Has it done it more frequently lately ? I'd definitely push the dealership to figure it out under warranty, regardless of only 2 weeks left on the warranty. The problem started before the warranty expired, and you have tried to get it fixed. Let them know if they try to pull BS, you'll never go there for service/work. B

Depending on where the dent is and how bad, you may be able to pop it back out from underneath, but if there are any creases it may not work or still be noticable. Yeah, sounds like that guy is a major jerk. Offer him the bill for a new and painted hood and see if he still thinks he's funny... If he refuses to pay, do exactly the same thing to his car, but make sure not to be seen. If he says something about it, just shrug and say "Karma maybe ?"... B

A steep hill and a tailwind... :o Seriously, headers, freeflow cat and good muffler all with 2.25-2.5" pipe is #1. Good plugs/wires and MSD or Jacobs ignition helps some. You are kind of stuck with the air filter but I'm sure there must be some good drop ins. From there you go to port and polish, cams, swapping heads for VG33's, etc but thats $ !! Get it breathing, farting and sparking as good as you can and realize you have a mellow tuned 3.0 V6... Good news is that they last a long time !! B

Ditto to the 31" comment... You need suspencion and body lift to run 33" and depending on the width and rim, you may have to trim the flares/fenders also. 31" fit fine, and are perfectly capable. Tread pattern is much more important than diameter. Look in the product review section for a good breakdown. You want good off road shocks then go with Rancho. Probably the #1 choice. B

Cool !! Keep us informed about it !! B

Yeah, never heard of O'reillys... I found some 85-90 (Gl-4 only) for about the same price at Napa I think. Thats what I used, but they really call for 75-90. I just figured to use it for a year or so as a flush. Who knows if it had ever been changed before... I'll probably use synth next time, I don't like pulling trannys !! B

Flush the tranny and put in a different cooler. Just call it maintenence and go from there... B

And the final temporary result... Took me about 3 hours, call it 1-2 with a helper and devision of labor... Anyone think this thread should go into the How To section ? B

This is the gaping wound after it has been drilled, preped and treated... B

Well, after cleaning the inside of my truck, I decided to check out my gas pedal floor board hole, and "Oh Crap !!", either I didn't look well the first time, or it grew !! Ok, time for a temp fix... I cut out 2 7x7" pieces of stainless sheet .025" thick. Took one, trimmed it a bit to fit the contours somewhat while still covering all the rust (and hole) then marked where the screws should go (thats the top piece). I C clamped the pieces together, and drilled through at slightly less than the minor diameter of the good sheet metal screws I dug up. Then I took the top plate, and redrilled the holes slightly over the major diameter of the screws. I put the top plate in position, using it as a template, and drilled the first hole in the floorboard (larger than the MD of the screw). Shoved a screw in the hole, drilled the second hole, put a screw in that, etc untill all 4 holes were drilled and removed the plate and screws. I flaked and chipped away the loose crap, wire brushed it well and gave it a few coats of Permatex rust treatment. We'll see how that stuff does... After some trimming and bending of the bottom piece (I only screwed up once when I forgot up is down, but front is still front. DONT ASK !) I just had to screw it together. Better part of an hour later, I had the 4 screws tight. I didn't have any help, so I was holding the bottom plate in place while trying to get the screws to bite from the top side. I DARE you to try that !! Even with my knuckle dragging monkey arms it was a contortionist's NIGHTMARE !! With help it would have been 5 minutes tops. :furious: Anyway, the results are suprisingly sound ! This is just a temp fix till spring or summer so I didn't try to seal or fill it. I'll have to pull the exhaust to do a better job of the underside rust treatment, but may very well just redo the the bottom plate then, seal it and call it good. Thought I'd share for the non welders and tight of budget... Here are a few picts... This is when I first pulled back the carpet. B

Cheapo's are Monroe, mid line are Pro Comp, top end are Rancho, Bilstein, Calmini... But they all have different grades, from stock replacement to dial adjust. I have Pro Comp ES3000 (stiffer than stock) and got the package deal + a steering stabilizer for $125 delivered from 4wheelparts... So far, so good ! I'm sure I'm missing some, but others will chime in. B

Hey V6, sorry but I ran out of time today. Patching the burn/rust hole under the gas pedal took until dusk. I'll post some tomorrow. While the truck is drivable, the geometry is significantly off and especially noticable when cornering at speed or under power. I'm sure that I could space/block/shim things straight and square enough for leafs, but it would take some careful measuring and fabing... Of course I'd like coils !! The SAS project wouldn't happen till spring at the soonest so there is plenty of time figure things out. Thanks much Bud for the offer and interest !! B Oh, as for how smashed it was, imagine a 2 foot radius about 8 to 10 inches deep almost dead center and up to about the center of the radiator. The bumper was curled out like a handlebar mustache. I did a fine job of it, but was able to drive it 1/2 mile to work no problem (other than really wierd steering!).

I'd think you could feel it if the tranny was trying to shift, but then 500 rpm is too big of a change not to significantly increase/decrease speed if it wasn't shifting... Do you have an aftermarket tranny cooler ? Is the tranny fluid level correct ? How old/what condition is it in ? Have you checked to see how hot the tranny cooler return line is ? The only other thing I could even guess at is the throttle position sensor, but I'd check all the other stuff first... GL ! B

Hey V6. Thats a picture of it, but almost all of the damage was structural (frame horns, front x-member) + bumper, radiator, etc. Thats the original hood and Q panels, they weren't touched. I'm assuming you want to see picts of the underside, etc. I'll take some today... B

Yes, I agree, but do you have any idea when (if ever) the timing belt was changed ??? On a 95, it's due every 105k miles. Find out if you can, Several people here have lost motors this summer due to timing belt failures. It's not something to take lightly. These motors run 200-250k easy, but that can end quick for lack of a $40 belt. It's not the easiest job, but necessary... I started detailing inside my truck today and was alarmed at how the hole in the drivers floorboard had grown in 1 year. Tomorrow I will treat it, screw some stainless sheet on underneath, and slide in a plate on top as a stop measure until I can do it right in spring (no garage). WOW, I was suprised... B

Definitely get the tire/rack secured, it shouldn't be too hard. You dont need 50+ lbs comming loose in any scenario. As for the external carrier, you can make it happen, just not yesterday like you want. Sheesh, kids these days... No patience !! B

Yow, from oil leak to pulling the heads in 1 day flat... I hope you find whats up and it's nothing major, but thats seems unlikely as you describe it. The guys in Washington are finding motors for about $700 (without core charge) with 3-12 month warrantys. I don't know you situation, but finding something like that may not be a bad way to go. Then you can sell the core and recoup the price of gaskets+ ? Anyway, just pointing out possible options. Good luck and keep us informed. B

Cool, you lose a bit in first, but the motor should make up for that, and second is better... Thats close enough to run with it. Good luck !! B

Cool, glad you got it all in and were not attacked by chitonous demons !! Again !! Well, it's actually UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) polyethylene and yours is anti static, but it's all good. For the install, please, all you really have to do is drill three holes, if it takes more than an hour it's your own damn fault !! Good luck. B

Ok, I'm dizzy from looking at the picts... I'll have to slide under mine tomorrow to look and reference, but wouldn't that be the oil pan seal ? Just guessing, I need to eye ball it... B

There is a free alternator in the parts section if you can wait for the shipping... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6378 Now thats help... B

If you get the door open light flickering, then it is probably the rear hatch switch. Either move the U plate or (aaakkk) wrap it with tape. Mine behaves like that but I have everything set so no lights come on... SSSSHHH!! Stealth mode, lol. Back dome light... maybe it is something wrong with the wiring, but have you checked the bulb ? Certainly investigate what the others have mentioned also... B

Congrats Bud, I'm jealous !! But then, I only have the tick for a minute if it happens at all so I'm pretending it's not there... I know the thread you mean but don't know where it is. I'll poke around a bit, but a search in the last 90 days with 'thorley' would probably turn it up... How about you take good pictures and do a little write up for the site ?? B