Precise1

I thought he was asking about SUVs not minivans. The pilot is a tall minivan... Thats fine if you never go down more than a gravel road 1 or 2 times, but I think he wanted something more capable. While I'm a big fan of Honda, I see no suitable SUV offered... B

I would think that any decent shop would check for that, back flush, etc... I expect things to last more than a day when it comes out of a shop !! :o B

If the tranny blew 1 day after the shop work, they MUST be liable !! Didn't it come with any warranty ?? I'd demand my $ back AND have them pay for the tow bill !! I believe there is a tranny for sale in the classified section of this forum.. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9213 Other than that, I'd follow mws's advice, it's sound... B

The last dog I had was stir-fried with bok choy and hunan sauce... B

Howdy !! While Honda also makes great cars, I'd argue they have some pretty lame SUV's... More like tall cars. Check out this thread... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1987 I think the record is over 500k miles so far. Generally, you can count on an easy 200k if you maintain it and don't beat the crap out of it. Personally, if I get over 200k out of a vehicle I figure it's done it's job... B

Yeah, I had the chance to poke around a few of them... One Van/personnel carrier, one 4 door covered pickup I think and 1 ambulance. I was impressed by the good engineering and solid build. VERY utilitarian though !! Didn't get a chance to drive one though. If I had the dough, I'd own one, hands down !! B

LOL at answering your own question... Definitely post a pict of the E series snorkel !! Is there a reason you can't drill/tap the ABS or the steel box for the sensor ?? Not exactly sure where it normally mounts, but you get the idea. Cheap and easy while keeping the computer happy... B

Start with a mixture of baking soda and water, put it on, let it fizz, rinse it off and repeat until the fizzing stops. Then use a scraper/wire brush/etc to expose clean metal for contact, coat with dielectric grease and reinstall. I have done this many times and it works like a charm. B

Yep, same with my d720 (carburated). It would surge (occasionally) at idle at a stoplight, etc once warmed up, but if I stepped on the gas to get the rpm to 1500+, it would not interfere and run smooth. Then, if I let off the gas, it would drop to idle (800 rpm) and surge between that and 1300ish rpm... Didn't do it while driving either. Then the next day it would be fine... Like I said, I never did figure it out, but then I olny drove it to work (3 miles) and planned to sell it, so I didn't look too hard. I'd just check/clean/replace the vacuum diaphrams and mechanical units in the order of cheapest/easiest first if you don't have a particular idea... I'm suprised 88 hasn't chimed in !! B Oh, I just remembered, with the fast idle valve, there was a bit about adjusting it... I'll reference the manual tomorrow, unless you have one and can read ??

DAMN, hope you are OK Bud !! I was hoping it would be that easy, but I guess not... My old d720 would do that sometimes but then it would go away. I just ignored it after I couldn't find the issue. Could you have an intake leak ?? It's obviously air/ gas/ sensor related... I don't know the TBI well but isn't there a fast idle valve with a mechanical dingus ? Check/clean that ? The manual lists too many little items for me to be helpful. I'm afraid it's one of those 'have to be there and play with it' things. Hopefully someone else has been there and solved it. Good luck and be patient... B

Nice trick JJ, mentally noted... B

Cool Bud !! Sounds like you are almost there... Replacing the vacuum lines is a good plan; connecting them all correctly is even better... That may very well solve the surging and high idle. Did you check the ECU for problem codes ? B

I'm guessing it's the idler pully ? It may be the bearing it's self. Thats not hard to replace and the part will be pretty standard and easy to find. Try loosening the tensioner and spinning the pulley by hand. If there is slop in it, hard to turn or not smooth, it's probably the bearing (after you check the nut like gg said). B

As 88 stated, the 94 & 95's have a 105k mile pm change for the timing belt. Having them fail is not funny... How many miles on your truck ? If it is unknown, assume it has never been changed. I'm sure you can do the math.... The timing belt is less than $50, and if it is done, general consensus is to check/change the cam seals, bypass hose, waterpump and thermostat ? (not sure on the last) Parts for all that are about $300, labor at a dealership is maybe $800 ?? If you have the means, this is a do it yourself job $ saver. Only tricky part is futzing with the new belt and plenty of people here can walk you through it. The rest is just labor... B

Depends on $... BL is cheap and easy on the scale of things. That gains little in my book... SL is more important with the SU in mind. Steering Upgrade... It seems that L&P is better/ prefered ( ) to Calmini, but both are argueably better than stock. I have run neither... As a wheeler that has done mods to their rigs, your questions seems very vague... What to do plan to do with the truck ? This sets the priority of armor, tire size, lift, etc... Didn't you want to SAS that R50 ?? Where are you comming from Max ? B

Sounds like a good deal for free... Have you actually driven it and experienced the 5th gear slipping out issue ?? Best case is that the issue is overstated and perhaps new fluid would help. Worst case is the tranny needs a rebuild/replacement. How mechanically inclined are you or your friends ? This makes a world of difference as shop labor for this type of work can add up quick... I won't go farther without an answer. I would accept the truck with the mind set that it may need some mechanic work. Depending on the actual issues and needs, it can be sold as a parts truck for $500+. This is a can't loose in my book. Radiator: Used, clean one or get a new replacement... $100 for a cheap new one. Dont jb-weld, etc it'll only leave you stranded somewhere. A/C: Sorry don't know.... B

LOL, answers to his questions... Start by checking that you have ballanced tires on straight, clean rims. Make sure the wheel bearings are not loose. Look for bad tie rod ends, center link, idler arm, etc... Alignment can be a factor. I seem to remember bad shake can be a toe in/out issue ?? Correct me if I'm wrong. Basically, if ther is nothing obvious, start on the outsides with the cheap/free stuff and work your way in. You can check your toe with some string and patience. Let us know what you find. B

All good info, but it boggles the mind that it has to be explained... Just play with it a bit and read the help info... It's not rocket science !! Don't people self teach anymore ?? B

As I understand, it's the same thing, just a different name. Some are right hand drive and/or have the 2.7l TD. B

88 is cool like that... and other ways... B

ENOUGH BASHING !!!! Unfortunately, 88 has stated all that needed to be said. I wish you well with your project. Good Luck. I tried to help most of te time and that's all I can do. If you need info in the future, I suggest you change login names and try another tactic. I'm locking this thread so idiots don't try any more cheap shots (which demean the site) and so doesn't turn into a sheit fest. While I don't agree with some of Jay's methods, attutides and responses, some of you people are actually validating his claims. Knock it off, it's not tolerated here ! B

Evan, good luck and don't hesitate to ask about issues that arise. Can I ask that you photo document the work and do a write up ?? B

Absolutely ! An engine is really just an air pump. Make it breathe and fart well... I rarely do engine mods, just aspiration and exhaust work. That alone can liven up most any motor while retaining the bone stock reliability, sometimes improving on it ! That said VWF, sounds like yours was suffering from some neglect... I'm glad that you got her running well again. B

Jay, you have issues... The first several posts answered you directly and fully. Seems to me you were taken seriously BEFORE you 'threatened'. After that, I stopped taking you seriously. Sure there was some crappola that followed, but quit getting so bent out of shape about it. IGNORE IT MAN ! Most people are happy to be here and comment how mellow and helpful the site is. Sorry if you are not happy but I doubt that you will find another large, free web site that is more benign. For your own long term benefit and quality of life, I suggest you slow down and cool off a bit. Learn to take things in stride or ignore would be irritants. It's only to your benefit. Good luck Bud... B I refute that...

If they are specific side to side, thats for a reason.... What up FL ?? You need that dynamite for an enema or what ?? B