Fishpath95

Good luck with the replacement process. I hope it goes much easier for you than it did for my buddy. He probably had 4+ hrs into the project when all was said and done. Three years later his rattle is back. If you are carrying anything other than the stock mini-spare it's just going to wear out again, faster than you can imagine (so in a sense this is also a temp fix). If the carrier is even a bit out of round from wear your rattle will be back instantly. I went with JJ BigShoe's method and would much rather spend the 10 minutes and $2.00 every now and then. But here's to you and your dedication to fixing it "right"

Hayseed, Just a thought... I was blowing fuses left and right which would knock out my factory fog/driving lights and my right side headlight. I happened to notice that on a couple of occasions it blew the fuse in conjuction with me lowering the e-brake handle. I took my center console apart and found where somehow the wiring from the switch had been pinched or worn through and was shorting out, thus blowing the fuse. A few seconds with some e-tape and no more fuses blowing. Might pay for you to take a look there as well. Good luck!

Start by searching the forums for JGC lift. Basically, replacing the rear springs with those from a JCG and cranking the torsion bars to lift the front end. By searching you will also learn that it is adviseable that you change over to aftermarket UCA's. There is a ton of information available, if you can't figure out how to search then just scroll back and look into topics that appear to be related to your question. It literally has been answered hundreds of times here. Good luck

True, that should do the trick. But, if by some act of god or emergency, my wife has to drive my Pathy I would like that safty feature intact.

Must have been an option because by MT 95 doesn't have it.

Anybody ever attempt to retrofit an interlock button to a '95?

There is so much information on this board a quick search will answer most of your questions. I spent about two years soaking up as much info as I could on this forum and it has been great. I was real gunshy about getting flammed for not using the search function. I will say this forum is much more willing to help out a Newbie than other Nissan/Pathfinder/Offroad forums. The folks on here are great! Some things I have come across: SE and XE model designations don't mean that much. It would be safe to say that not ALL SE's came with the LSD rear end. There should be an orange LSD sticker on the rear diff or you can jack it up and spin the tires to verify if you have one or not. Some Pathy's came stock running 31x10.5 tires so I would say that the answer to your question is YES. However if your springs or torsion bars have begun to sag you may have some rubbing issues at full lock or during heavy suspension flex. IIRC stock w/ 31x10.5 may have come with an adjusted steering lock setting to prevent rubbing.

Check for for sale section! There are front and rear smittybilt bumpers in Seattle's Craigslist. I think it was 250.00 for the set, front and rear. If you guys are intersted, I am local and I would be willing to handle the shipping for you. Not sure if they are still available but you could shoot the guy an e-mail.

It's not that the stock UCA's will break but they do not correct the ball joint angle like the aftermarket UCA's do which will lead to premature ball joint failure. I think?

By searching a bit you can pretty much come up with all the possible issues that members have come across. In my own experience we had to torch out the old spindle bushings and used the torch to heat up the sleeves enough to get them off. I also sheared off the aft two bolts on the drivers side and passenger side upper ball joints. As they were 12 yrs old I just went ahead and replaced them rather than fighting to extract the bolts. Other than that, everything was pretty much straight forward. I am running 32x11.5 with just a bit of fender flare and lower valence trimming. Total time for front end was approx 5 hrs, rear springs took about an hour total. Good luck!

32's may need a bit of trimming. I am running 32/11.5 Procomp Mudders on Soft 8's w/ 4'BS. We re-indexed the torsion bars and maxed them out. Still had to trim the front fender flares and lower valance. If you had brand new torsion bars or 32/10.5 tires you can probably do it w/o any cutting, but what fun is that?

Dank, that's classic! Sorry it all happened and, for what it's worth, glad the damages sound minimal.

Thanks, Slick for being sick enough to ask that question...... Yeah, how'd you "finish it off"?

There have been a lot of folks who have used JGC springs from the junk yard with success. There is the potential for some loss of spring rate/sag on used springs. I chose to purchase new GN code springs since I have a small utility trailer and a drift boat I tow from time to time. Also, I knew what I was getting for sure, as there are several sets of springs used on the JGC dependant on motor and performance options (ie Upcountry vs Larado, etc...). If you have the time and a set of calipers to check the diameter you can certainly crawl around the JY to find the ones you are looking for. There is also the aftermarket/non-oem available through most local parts stores. I think Slick is pretty happy with the ones she got, IIRC an old post correctly.

Pav, Sorry to hear about your situation. I can't imagine how schnitty going through that would be. My only little insurance policy is that the old lady can't drive a stick. I am in no hurry to teach her and she does not show much interest in learning. Until then the Pathy is safe. Take care and drop by from time to time.