Precise1

I have plugged holes like that and driven home over 1,000 miles, and then drove around on it for years after that.... I know everyone talks about patches these days, but I have used (good) plugs for 25 years; multiple plugs in 1 hole, multiple holes in one tire, etc. Never had one fail yet, and I have one on the back tire of my BMW motorcycle, and one I put on the edge of the sidewall in my Moms car, that a tire company said wasn't repairable (via patch). That can be fixed, even if you only trust it as a spare. (no such thing, a spare is just as important as the ones touching the ground) B

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Wow, pretty impressive! I think it is a bit out of my budget though... B

Are the headlights as bright as normal? What voltage at the battery with no lights/ignition on? It could be at the ignition switch, the starter relay on the passenger fender, connections, etc. Check the battery voltage, the physical connections, the ground where it ties into the body/frame, remove the relay/check contacts/tap it and reinstall. Do one thing at a time, trying to start it in between. That way if something changes, you know what affected it. Do you have a multimeter or 12v test light? B

Looks pretty good from 10 feet away... I agree, with rear tint you almost have to upgrade the reverse lights to not be dangerous. B

So, here is a pretty decent set up; a place to stay and park your ZAV, 'cause you got to sleep sometime... http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/arts-culture/blogs/your-zombie-proof-log-cabin-has-arrived B

Smoke /= results, but that is just me. I don't think a few degrees should do that, especially in a water cooled motor. None of the few I have seen looked that way... B

He fixed the 2 door mistake, so the thread was in the right place. I know... Just joking... don't have a cow! Just because you bought a lame one.... B

Both the Nissan trucks (D720, WD21) that I have owned had a 'tall' clutch, but there is a bit of adjustment that you can play with that will affect the engagement point; there are specs in the FSM. I never played with mine as I always preferred it that way, but I'm sure you could get a bit of leeway either direction. Check out CL-3ish B

Interesting, good share! I would have liked to see that Gobi concept, especially in 4x4 version. B

Strange that there is so much difference in coloration, it makes me think that one end might not be getting sufficient oil. You might want to do an engine flush (usually a product that is left to run in a warm engine for a brief time, then flushed out) to see if it clears out any restrictions. I've never run seafoam but I know many here have and swear by it. As long as it is run just as briefly... what do the direction on the can say? B

In all reality, once you detect worrisome noises it is too late, the damage has been done. I don't know why dealerships would ignore the TSB, but it is a known fact that for the 1996 model year that used the identical transmission coupled with the VG33, the fill hole was raised to increase the case capacity. This, along with the fact that the manual transmissions are not pressurized (just vented) means there is no harm in the 'overfilling' procedure. Thanks again for this MadKiwi, I used this procedure with my first Pathy, along with countless others, and I really don't hear many complaints about bearing whine on the forum any more. B

It is not normal for a castle nut to shear its cotter pin and come free, so something else is going on. Make sure you have the right parts, tapers match, etc. Thread locker should not be needed, but I doubt a low/medium yield would hurt regardless. I have no idea of Switzerland salts roads or not, but if so, some sort of coating makes a lot of sense. B

It's a Jimmy, shiould have just left it there... B

Yes Alkorahil is Rob Lacy, the factory parts guy. He will be able to answer your questions/supply you with anything that is still being made. Also, when ordering, specify 1999.0 model year and you should avoid that confusion, but any decent parts place should be able to check the hole size for you as well... B

You should go to the Garage section and download a copy of the FSM from the pinned thread, it will give you a lot of information on how to check sensors (usually with a multimeter) and show you where things are. I'm all for checking and isolating the problems before replacing parts myself... B

Thread locked by request of OP. B

Yes, for it to have a little bit of play is normal. What aligns it is the mating splines when the hub (any brand/type) is installed. B

Clutch slip shouldn't be jerking you around, pun intended. Maybe surges, RPM increases or chatter. I knew my clutch was going when I did some power acceleration up a hill and 3rd or 4th gear slipped and engaged much slower. Tranny is big and heavy. Have a friend handy when you pull it loose, and I highly recommend a tranny jack or at least jack adapter. Might want to consider doing the rear main seal at the same time. Flywheel bolts are single use? Yes, always change the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing at the same time, unless you like pulling trannys... Take your time, keep organized and safe. You have to get the vehicle suspended pretty high to unbolt the tranny, lower it and slide it back so make sure you have plenty of good, tall jack stands and supports. Also, buy a clutch plate alignment tool, it is worth the few dollars... B

It has been a little while, but yes, IIRC you remove everything down to the bearing lock nut, then either slide the guts out of the Warn hubs, slip it on the CV spline, replace the snap ring in the outer groove, and slide the hub body back over the guts, OR slide the entire Warn assembly onto the CV spline and replace the snap ring in the outermost groove. Either way, everything is removed from the stock assembly and the snap ring must be reinstalled in the outer most groove once the manual hubs have been installed. What do you mean by play allowance? B

I think you might be able to just loosen the top timing cover and peek in (I thought someone else has done this), you just have to see one tooth. I'll look tomorrow to see if that is feasible... B

VGs run long enough themselves and Z24s dont get 20mpg around town, even when they aren't hauling around 2 tons. Not trying to change your mind, just saying I've driven both motors for about 10 years each and I'll take the VG, especially in a Pathy. Swap away! B

Fired it up and ran it around the block 1 or 17 times. I miss driving it... B

So the inie or outie part is a secret? B

Yes, by looking... There is a date cut off around mid year, so what month was yours produced? Perhaps a dealer could look up the VIN and tell you? B