Precise1

Sounds like it worked out as good or better than you hoped. Congrats!! I give you a lot of points for trying out your own designs... B

Read this... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 That should help a bit. Another 'replace while you are there' item is the coolant bypass hose. You may want to get one and replace it... B

I have had a battery fail drastically on me. Started it, drove 2 miles to work, everything was fine and it was bone dead at the end of the day (one of the cells failed completely). It seems like you may have a problem with the ignition switch. I don't believe that these trucks have a starter relay. Try jumping it, check fuses then try to hotwire it... B

Nope... But if you have a bad leak as I suspect, that will only last a day. Look to see how many studs are left and maybe give them a torque, lightly. The ruined ones will twist off (if they are still attached) but the others may help seal it. Realistically, the only solution once it gets bad is to replace the gasket and studs... B

The reason for 'about anything you do to a wd21 comes from a junkyard' is because there is not a lot of aftermarket support for the pathfinder. Thats what we are trying to address, both by dealing with vendors who DO have aftermarket parts and trying to find work arounds like the JGC springs. There are many vendors listed in a thread, the Garage I believe. If you wish to go a step farther, the SEARCH function will lead you to SAS threads in which members are installing solid front axles. There is aftermarket at a basic level, and work arounds from there. What is it you need? B

Lets talk about that when the time comes. I have a good 95 other than the front end which is a mess, including frame horns. Shipping a tranny and/or engine back to you would probably be cheaper than towing a pathy here (opposed to driving it). I'd want pictures, blah, blah, but you know where I'm coming from. We'll worry about it when it is available, but don't get carried away before you contact me or it may not be worth my dime. Lets see what we can do, eh? :beer" B

Well, since the car jumps fine but doesn't start from the battery, it would have to be the battery, no? If it was an electrical connection issue, jumping it shouldn't help. This is one of those 'I need to be there things'. Hopefully it well be resolved easily and soon!! If this is the case, PM me with what would be stripped and we'll go from there. I may take the whole thing off your hands... Thanks Bud. B

Ok, I politely say "use the search function". There is all the info you could want out there, just look it up. People don't always have the time to look it up and link it. If you have problems with the search, let us know and we'll teach you. B

*snort* I'd laugh at you if I haven't done similar things... You are welcome for the nut specs and I'm glad you didn't need it! B

An abbreviation of 'Post Whore' thread. A place where people go to chat, post random crap or give each other a hard time (and boost their post count)... We are on # 6, I believe so there are 5 previous with 10,000 posts each. Please make sure you start on PoHo#1 page #1 and read up... Fair enough, thank you. I promise not to hold it against you for fixing them... B

LMAO!! Nice!! Thanks for being such a sport and helping out like that!! B

Ahh, got ya, thanks. I suppose it makes sense, but thats one of the last mods I'd consider. Not enough results to trouble with. I can think of 10 things to do first with far better results. To each their own, though... B

Ok, I'm new to this level of mods but I did read the links and I think I understand. What suprises me is that it just seems to be 2 slots with a bolt and some plastic (UHMW PE would be a good material. I have some 1/2" thick chunks if you want to try it). NO guide bushing much less shoulder bolt, NO internal plastic tube to fit over the bolt to help align it and a LOT of slop. From what people said in the forum, they work and years of use provides little wear. I'm really suprised at that!! Your design looks just fine, but very rough. As a machinist, I'd want to mill the slots and the guide rails in all at the same time, straight with no more than .005" clearance for everything. Welding is a good skill but hardly suffices for precision work. Again, this coming from a machinist who doesn't know how to weld. I'm not trying to be critical, but I'd never have guessed that the design is sufficient to hold on the leafs which hold on the axle!! What do I know... It seems like it should work, but I wonder how loose it will make the front end feel. Good job and thanks for sharing. B

Start there... Then that one... Then read the "Product Review" forum... Then ask questions... This must be something I don't know of. Why in the world do you want different pulleys? Is this a ricer trick? B

You are off on your front spline. 1)Make a temporary mark on the spline cup AND torsion bar. 2)Slide the torsion bar out. 3)Index it one way or another, depending on if it was too loose or too tight. 4)Reinsert the torsion bar and tension it. Did you go the right way? Did you go far enough? If you answered NO to any of these questions, repeat steps 1-4 until you answer yes to both. 5) Permanently mark the front spline cup AND torsion bar so you'll never have to do this again. Oh, JJ did provide you with a link that explains everything... Calm down, use your head and it will be simple. B

Ouch!! Problem is, you won't be able to sell it for much when it's not running with 'unknown' problems or major repairs needed. I don't know that your situation is like, but it would serve you better in the long run to get some cheap econobox to drive while you try to fix it, then sell said econobox. Even if you open it up and don't fix it, you'd still get about the same price for the pathy. I know it's tough, but I'm just trying to help. B

I'm sorry to hear that. You can't keep it and work on it in stages? At least tear it down to the pistons to see what the actual damage is... B

Nice, another machinist!! I used to run a Haas vertical mill years ago, but I must say, I liked the Matsuuras much better, enough to buy one. Thats all in the past, now I do diamond turning. Welcome to the board, like you said, there is plenty to read, some of it even useful!! I recommend playing with the search function. It is rather finicky, but once you get the basics down, you can usually find what you are looking for. B

Let me go out and measure it for you, I have calipers, thread gauges, etc... BRB B M12x1.25 with the flats 19mm across. Not that that matters, but it's nice to put a 19mm wrench on one and a 3/4" on the other... Make sure the nuts thread on before you leave the store parking lot!! BTW, I checked it with a thread file (couldn't find the thread gauge, I need to clean the garage!). I highly recommend getting one (or 2, metric and standard), they are cheap and handy!

Yep, these are considered 1/4 million mile trucks in general. The most likely (and costly) failures are the timing belt failing (preventable) and an automagic tranny failing (sometimes preventable). The rest is all the standard items that fail on any vehicle. Keep up the driving, you only have abut 265,000 more miles to go to get the record here... B

If thats the case, yours is bad!! Better double check my guess though. I did nothing. The leak was minor so I'm guessing it got fouled up enough to plug? Not sure, I just know I don't have the ticking anymore... B

Good, I'm glad! So the old Dizzy wasn't firing right or messing up the timing? B

Sorry we weren't more help. It's maybe one of those 'if I was there' fiddle with it things, but yeah, don't feel bad, I've had to take cars in occasionally because I couldn't figure it out without randomly throwing $ at the problem. Good luck, and please remember to post what the problem/solution was. It may save someone else some headache. B

I'll guess the infamous exhaust manifold leak. Lucas oil shouldn't affect it unless it's a lifter or valve, though. Does it do it more from cold start? How about full warm, let it set 1/2 hour then start and drive? More noticable then? These motors are famous for having the crappy exhaust manifold studs breaking/manifold warping... Ok, I read closer and you answered my question. Mine did the same thing for a while., I could stop at a store and it would tick 10 minutes later, but go away after full warm. Actually, for the last 2 years, it has gone away almost completely. Some people need to change the gasket/some broken studs. B

Or my favorite thing to mention, bad ground strap connection perhaps? B