Precise1

Well, the new '95 pathy has 95,572 miles on it and... and... (wait for it!!! ) NO RUST!!! (I can't vote in the poll twice) B

Dear Gods, 3rd post and he's already a comedian... Canadian humor... B

*snort* Maybe it fell out of the hole... B

Ok, I'm assuming everything is the same other than the diesel engine which I have no information on. 91 Pathfinder: manual tranny=10.5? pints (5.1 liters) GL4 ONLY 75w-90, auto tranny=9 pints dextron 2 or 3, transfer case=2.4 pints ATF, front drive axle=3.1 pints GL5 80w-90 rear drive axle 5.9 pints GL5 80w-90 cooling system 12.4 quarts. That seems high, can anyone verify that? Read this... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 and remember when changing the differential oils, remove the fill plug first... B

Like has been said, I see the reasons and can not argue... I'm just glad it served you well for the time you had it. Why were you running premium fuel though? I hope it serves you well, and yes, you better stick around or I'll wire down a flounder on top of your muffler!! B

Honestly, I'm not sure it will make that much difference in braking as at least 2/3 stopping power is from the front brakes. Still, many people prefer rear disks, if no other reason than easy of maintenance (other than parking brake). No big deal either way.... I'm going to move this to the R50 section where it should get more response. B

I'm with mws and k9sar. For $100ish, you should be able to find a hitch, quite possibly cheaper. Of course, you can make something, but most people don't have the skills/tools required, and when it comes down to it, do you really want to? The price isn't very high and do you really want the liability involved? B

1) Probably both since you specified heavy loads/full truck. 2) Bigger tires will give you more clearance, more traction(assuming same tread type and that they are wider, not just taller). Also if you run the tires 'aired down' ie low pressure, it will help absorb some of the bumps. 3) I'm not familiar with the Nissan strut front end so I'm no help. B

Cool, thanks for the update Slick!! B

That would be 1.5" of plexiglass... Ok, different but the same... B

Not slighting this one bit, but I believe it is old news. I'll dig up the old thread tomorrow... That said, YES, when recovering vehicles there is major stress on the parts, and if they fail bad things can happen. Always have good, high proof components, clear spectators of at least 30 degrees from the path of recovery. Use remotes when ever possible. If in the vehicle, DUCK DOWN!!! It can''t hurt!! I can go on, but I think that is enough to plant the seed. Let's put it this way. I carry 1 tow strap right now in the Pathy; it is rated for 33,000LBS. Overkill? Yes. I don't have to worry about it, just the hardware... B

Honestly, it sounds like a combination of things, not just 1. Yes, these are not powerful trucks, but generally have enough power to maintain. I'd advise checking any drag points, ie brakes and wheel bearings. How is the tranny fluid? Is there a tranny issue perhaps? From there I'd run the ECU codes just for luck, check/clean the MAF, dizzy and then look towards the exhaust. As has been said, a clogged cat can kill performance but won't necessarily throw a code... B

I agree... So, whats the current status with the bumpers/new plans ? Personally, I have no problem with corner uptubes. Fill them with sand/cement and they will be damn near crumple proof!! I have a new truck that needs good bumpers, whats the time line and price? Does he need a model truck for the first set? How do these mount if you have no body lift VS 3" body lift? Front bumper with a winch mount? Rear bumper available with class 3 receiver tube? I personally prefer to keep the stock spare tire mount... Please tell the man that people are interested and waiting. (I know you are busy Slick) B

$3800 in Iowa may be a bit much, I just paid $3300 in Cali for a 95 with 95k miles. As for the auto tranny bit, I'm in the same boat; haven't had an auto for 20 years and never been in an auto pathy... I'm using my old pathy as a donor, if the tranny gives out, I'm swapping to manual. It's not too hard to do and if you have a donor vehicle, it is fairly cheap. B

Well, the truck I just bought is a 95 automagic, freshly rebuilt (12,000 miles ago) with a shift kit in it (have to ask the PO which one; floor it in power mode and you better have a headrest!!) and I have decided to run it until I a) decide I hate it or until it grenades. This is the first automagic I have owned in 20 years. While I have searched, I still have a few questions. This list may grow, so check back!! 1) Who is running this mod, when do you use it and is there any reason to bother? http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 2) Apparently I have an tranny inline magnafine filter (saw it in the receipts, have not found it on the truck yet). Has anyone heard of these, used them, have any feedback, etc? http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/ 3) ATF additive? Anyone? Bueler? Who runs what? What difference do you notice? What do you recommend? I want to take care of this tranny the best that I can so even if I still decide to do a manual swap, I can sell a functioning unit, not discard junk. Thanks for now. B Oh, yes, there is a 18,000 lb external tranny cooler mounted, but then run back through the radiator... *facepalm* I'll be changing that soon!! B

Wiring connections? Distributor? what did you dry? Glad to hear all you are complaining about is some wind and rain... B

Thanks Mr P, I did read all of that during my search. I haven't done any significant work on it yet, I've turned my efforts to buying a replacement part. Another WD21... Quite frankly, I don't know. I haven't changed it in 4 years/25k miles and the PO didn't mention anything. I seem to remember thinking it was factory Nissan when I replaced the clutch. B

*snort* .62 miles to the KiLoMeTeR if you want to be backwards... B

Trim makes a difference in life for me. B

Try canola oil... B

Is that for a automagic? I put some lucas oil stabilizer in my tranny when I did the overfill with GL4. I can't tell the difference, but it shifts nice and has no bearing whine at 130k miles. B

1) Have you downloaded the Factory Service Manual (FSM)?? If not, do so, it is in the Garage section towards the top I believe... 2) I seriously doubt that whatever is keeping your truck from running is related to the trim levels. If you really have the quest for knowledge, PM akorahill (I think thats how it is spelled) and politely ask him to look up your VIN. There is another guy who can do it, I'll have to find his login... B

I agree. It was too hot to mess with this afternoon so I did little other than re-install the battery. Tonight or tomorrow I'll start throwing current around... But, allow me to quote your quote... It may not be the case? That's why I'm asking, searching, saving and hope to compile something comprehensive. B

Ok, you lost me. Why do you plan to take the tranny out? Are you replacing it? Clearance? I'll check back shortly B

Bear with me, electrical is my weak point. Ok, starter has been cranking slowly for a few days, then quit. I switched the 6 year old 800CCA battery with a 1 year old 500CCA unit and it was exactly the same. Relay click and nothing else. After checking battery and ground wires, I beat on the starter seleniod for a bit. It started and has done so 10 times but barely started the last time... I am about to measure voltage, try the jumper cable trick, 'hotwire' the seleniod, bypass the relay and interlock and everything else I have read in the last 2 hours of searching. My hunch is that it is the starter seleniod, as pounding on it made it work. What is your guess? Oh, I've been collecting the information so we should get a good starter troubleshoot/rebuild How To out of this. Feel free to chime in with anything I haven't mentioned.