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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Yeah, you don't have enough... B
  2. X10 on the rainex. Just don't apply it over stickers (alcohol based). The other thing you could do is buy an intermittent wiper switch assembly and motor out of another 95XE, sort of like the one in my driveway that I'm parting out... B
  3. Try flushing the motor and changing the oil. I used to have a lifter tap at start up but after I did that it went away completely. B
  4. Good. Ok, so you don't want my LSD. Check around locally with wreckers though, they may be had cheap. What gearing do you have? The plate on the passenger fender wall (inside the hood) near the firewall will say "HG43" or "HG46" on the bottom. This is your gear ratio, 4.35 or 4.63 (?) gears. Make sure to match them, but an LSD would probably help you out a lot in mild off road situations. All too true. Don't toss a lot of $ at it but a 'poor man's lift', tires and LSD would probably take you as far as you want to go... B
  5. Most of those are insane!! "scrape any sealant/putty", etc... Yeah, if you are running for $ and then only in the 1/4 mile/serious track scene. Other than that, most drivers can't handle the car well enough to have a few 100LBS shaved off make a difference!! This was my thought. Seriously, there is not much weight to be lost with out ditching all the amenities so either don't bother or buy a WD21 and gut it... B
  6. Yes, that or perhaps an easier option for a light duty DD (daily driver). Install a LSD rear end (the 95 (94 also?) have pretty good break away force). It's only a dozen bolts and 2 brake lines to deal with. Just so happens that I have 1 for sale that works well. Where is Agg town?? *snort* See what I mean?? B
  7. /\ What they said. Do you have an open rear differential or LSD? B
  8. LOL I'm not sure if that is a wise arse comment or if Dad is just stating the history. If it is the second, yeah, the hole is shot!! Hey Dad, by all means slow down on the road (and off), you can wheel just fine without catching air... B
  9. Sell it, buy a Honda Civic, lower it, put on a fart muffler and be as cool as everyone else... Ok, your question is so vague and open ended that not many will have 'good' advice. Try answering these questions... 1) Is it your daily driver? What would you like to do with it? 2) Do you plan to take it off the pavement? If so, how seriously? 3) How much time and $ do you have? 4) How mechanically inclined are you and do you have a good place to work on it, ie garage and the right tools. My advice is to start there... B
  10. /\ Like they said. It's worth the effort not to drop crud into the cylinders. I've used a screw driver and wadded paper towel pieces to break loose/mop up crud and clear it out with canned air (no air compressor). It works fairly well... Nice!! Sometimes patience is the only way... Make sure to put some anti seize on the threads of the new plugs. B
  11. WOW!! An 87 with 133k on it?!? Check the distributor to see if it spins when the motor is turned, that's far easier than pulling a timing belt cover... Check the ECU for fault codes (write up in the How To section). Remember, all else working, you need fuel and spark so check for that first. B
  12. I'm moving this to the diesel section where people can probably help more... B
  13. Moved for maximum exposure and clarity... B
  14. I second the PB blaster suggestion. Try to budge them cold, then warm or hot. Once it does move, don't just unscrew it all the way, thread it back in a turn or so to allow the penetrant deeper access. Do not let the threads heat up or they may gall. Get it a few turns out, and let it sit for 5 mintues and then go back and turn it a few more threads, etc... Before fully removing the plug, make sure to vacuum or blow out the plug well!! B
  15. Here is the info posted... I suggest you read it before you purchase your bolts... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325 B
  16. Several people have had this issue and one cause is longer bolts are required with some aftermarket UCAs, especially when shimmed. Were you using a torque wrench? Helicoils have the tab for inserting, but it is easily (supposed to be) broken off after being inserted and there is no through hole interference. Yes, there are many types of thread inserts from Helicoil style to solid sleeves with tabs on the OD that have to be driven in place to lock them. It's really more about the application, clearance, wall thickness, etc. I have never had a problem with Helicoils my self (they are mil spec) but some people don't like them. B
  17. Not that I know of, but I've never worked on one of those. Just make sure not to put in the T-stat backwards (is possible with some cars) and clean the gasket surfaces well and use a good rtv type sealant. B
  18. LOL I'm not going to say "I told you so...". Many people forget that important step. I generally consider it the second thing to do after a visual inspection. Glad to hear that it was so simple to fix!! Lucas OS is good stuff. I ran it in my tranny and diffs, but never in the motor. After flushing the motor and a few oil changes, even the lifter tap it had when I bought it is gone. Maybe I'll try some next oil change... B
  19. No, probably not that quickly. Also, did you prime the oil pump?? I swear I read something on that recently. Let me go see if i can find it... Ahh, here it is. I have never done this work so I'm just parroting... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...=prime+oil+pump Swap the motor from the other one in it and start parting out what's left!! The slight tap is probably the lifters, common and not a problem. If it quieted down right away, then you must have oil pressure... B
  20. Did you dry test or wet test (adding some oil to the cylinder) when checking the compression? If dry, then that would give you low numbers, if wet, that could account for the smoke, but it should be more bluish than black; black is usually to rich. Could be O2 sensor?? Have you run the ECU codes? There is a write up in the How To section... This doesn't sound good at all!! Valves/guides trashed?? B Welcome, BTW!!
  21. Now it really sounds like the exhaust manifold leak... B
  22. Yes. Use something metal... B
  23. I'm moving this into the diesel section for maximum exposure to people who might know. Sounds like a nice swap though!! B
  24. A set of wire deflectors would help a lot and with the bolt holes fabing a bracket would be simple... I can't tell if I like it or not, I'd need to see one on a pathy to tell. I can see the value though, especially on an old windshield. B
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