Precise1

Yeah, I was guessing that there might be air trapped in the new calipers. I had this happen when I converted my bug to disk brakes. I removed the caliper and rotated it about, tapping it and ended up with the bleed nipple straight up (the highest point), and then bled them like that. Did this a couple of times and they worked. A little bit of a pain, but a 'free' fix. If you have a similiar issue, gravity bleeding will do nothing, but try it first... B

I believe there is a thread about this also. Same here, several times. No problems... Also, make sure to double check them after 20 miles or so, you may need to reset them. B

Just be careful of the lead paint on it... Your second attempt design sounds much better, BTW. B

Unfortunately I do not have any information on the 2006 models. Have you searched or asked this question in the 2005+ section?? B

It's all been said by now but I will second this.... I just bought a used bumper and winch. I haven't gotten the winch to work yet, but I can see the cable is pinched on the spool. Depending what inspection reveals, I may just replace it with a synthetic rope. Just as strong, lighter and easier to use and much safer in the event of line (not hardware) failure. Points for the effort Doc, but I strongly recommend revisiting that design/function. B

Sounds like you are on the right track. THIS!!! Unfortunately, not all remanufactured starters are good. Sometimes it is better to buy new... I'll have to post the name of the new aftermarket starter I have (after I look it up). B

Because the nut broke free due to the impact gun I used and galling, not rust... The other one came out nicely with a 1/2 drive rachet. B

I was simply considering the number of people who have ovaled holes/rods 1/2 worn through. If the stiffer poly bushing can lessen that effect, I find it a major benefit. What's wrong with 14 year old bolts, I have a whole truck of them and no issues. Oh, yeah, that's right. Forget it... B

I'm torn with GG's response and the fact that the poly are stiffer. I will probably use them for the compression rid bushing as it is a high wear item but for others like sway bar, I'd seriously consider stock.oem replacements. Yes, waterproof trailer bearing grease seems to work wonders and zerk fittings are used when ever possible for easy application. A member did a study but has since disappeared. Earth1 I think?? B

LOL Pinkie... Ok, maybe it wasn't 100% clear. Yes, 4" BS with 8" rims... B

Those are the BFG MT KM2. So far so good. They hum a bit over 40 mph but I don't mind. The sidewall is strong enough that handling is not adversely affected and I've been to every mall within 15 miles and haven't gotten stuck yet!! B

And the side picture.... The fronts protrude slightly more than the back, but I suspect that will change when I install the suspension lift... B

From what I read in this thread http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...=wheel+bearings The design is a bit different from what I am used to and have on my truck so I could only give you a general description. I will say this though, seating the bearing races can be a pain (you always change bearings and races as a set) unless you have some experience, the proper tools and a decent place to work. While it is not difficult, per se, it needs to be done right the first time. I'm not sure this is the job to experiment with. Here are my recommendations... 1) Buy/download a manual. It will pay for it's self the first time you don't damage something. Factory service manual is ideal, but has no pictures, Chiltons or Haynes has pictures but sometimes covers so many years it is not exact. I actually have all 3... 2) Read through the entire job to make sure you don't need (or have) special tools and supplies like pullers, torque wrenches, sealant, grease, etc... 3) Have someone helping you who has done this work before and can explain why/what not to do. 4) Have another vehicle to drive in case you have problems/need parts or more time. In this case, I suggest removing the rotors as per the manual and take them to a shop with the replacement bearings to have them remove the old and press in the new races. You will save a lot of $ this way, still doing 90% of the work, but won't need the special tools/knowledge. B

Do this carefully, especially if you habe a manual tranny, but try 'hotwiring' the starter with jumper cables. It will tell you if it is the starter or something inbetween. Also, have you checked your ground cable/connections? B

Here is an inadequate picture of the exact rims with 31x1.5" tires on them. Yes, you can run them without problems. They will stick out more, and slightly from the fender flares. I'l take a side view picture when I get home today. B

Cool, glad you got it done with a minimum of fuss and cost... B

The pilot bushing?? They are different for manual and automatic trannys... B

Someone here in the past painted theirs black. Turned out pretty good... How wide are the tires on those 7" rims??? *snort* B

Ok, this is similar... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 I have the same principle, it's good to have options when the sheit hits the fan and that is natural or man made disasters these days (zombies possible). To me that isn't having the biggest, baddest rig, it is having the most sensible. Besides, you may have to ditch your rig right off the bat or in a few days... These are my basics: WD21 in good tune with basic spares (alt, fan clutch, starter, hoses, belts, fuses, fluids,etc) Suspension lift Good, larger AT/MT tires with full sized spare or two (air pump/plug kit, etc) Strong front bumper (the best rig won't get far if a fender bender can make it undriveable), rear bumper optional Winch, a powerful/versatile tool that usually fits well in a strong front bumper Tow hitch (will help protect in the case of a stock bumper and provide a good attachment point) Extra lights to see where not to go/what not to hit with the strong bumper (see Colbywan's truck for Zombie attacks) Good battery to provide power for everything (deep cycle prefered, dual battery set up ideal)) Minimum 800w Power inverter so you can run 120v tools/appliances Communication (CB is probably sufficient) High lift jack, shovel, axe, etc. Extra fuel capacity (even if it is 'just' 5 gallons) Water (1 gal/day per person) so 5 is a good basic start I tried to stick to the vehicle appointments rather than which gun or what food to take, as I see that as personal gear and covered in the linked thread... B

Ok, I really have no idea what size Xterra rims are or what their backspacing is. Hopefully someone will chime in soon so we have numbers to go by. not guesses. Can you post a picture of the rims to help identify them, or satae the year, if known?? B

You talking to me?? Yep, that's a stock pathy. A couple of times the knobbies made some noise while turning sharply and reversing, but no, no real rubbing issues with 31" tires and 4"BS (3.75 is stock). I will still be doing a 3" suspension lift... B

By what you have posted, it sounds easy. It must be getting there and putting it all back that is difficult... Good luck, I want to see this thing running... B

http://www.rocky-road.com/thorley.html I see you found it, but I'm and posting so others can find the link... B

I'm guessing they meant 96-99?? R50... I don't see how those would bolt onto the WD21 frame with those ends. I don't recall seeing any tapped holes there. Is some bolt on bracketry missing?? Like I said, I'm just guessing... B

I always thought it was a free download... PM me a name and address and I'll send you a CD. B