Precise1

You better make a lot of $... B

Fair enough, but it sounds like you have already done more work/spent more time than modding the Quest unit would take. When the better weather gets here I plan to work it all out on my parts car and see if I can't make it a bit more straight forward swap... B

Ususally once it is torn out, not much goes back in... Do you need to replace all of it? No junk yard or part out units good enough?? B

I went out and looked, but I couldn't follow the wire in the harness and my multimeter is at work. I can check it tomorrow afternoon, sorry in the delay Bud. B

I have heard many people talk about it, but never have seen it done. It really shouldn't be too hard... On the other hand, you can install an alternator from a Nissan Quest with out too much trouble and that one is good for 110 amps IIRC. I just bought one for $30 from pick and pull. There is a write up on the Garage/How To section. B

What material is that waffle grid thing? B

Yeah, been there... Got bitched at for changing a flat tire because there was 'no working on cars allowed' rule. How's that for stupid?? B

LOL That's why we are here!! (sort of, anyway) It just so happens that I was messing with the hubs/drive flanges on a couple of pathfinders and just installed my used Warn hubs. What you have posted is exactly how my auto hubs were assembled and they worked correctly. Must have been something else... B

Bad news guys, it ain't happenin'. This is why... R50 flange drive stripped down... WD21 autolocking hub stripped down... The crenelations (slots for tabs) in the face of the spindle tube is why I could not do the swap. The two tabbed components from the WD21 auto hub could not be installed, otherwise I am certain it would work. Everything else is the same down to the two different C clip grooves required for each system. I have not yet determined if this piece is easily removable (doubt it) for machining, but sorry, this is not the plug and play I had hoped for. I'll update farther when I have had more time to look at it... B

That is a commendable attitude and one I try to follow after being so jaded. I've offered a deal on my 5 speed with help with the swap, but he is dead set on keeping the slush box and not having a drivable truck... B

I'm going to go out and look at mine first thing in the morning... B

At least check the wiring connector to make sure it is not loose or corroded. Obviously, disconnect the battery and discharge the system first. (wait 15 minutes and/or step on the brakes/turn on the lights) B

I believe the wacky connector unit you are talking about is a fusable link and yes, you can bypass it but it is not a good idea in the long run. Fuses are inline for a reason... B

Yes, that is correct. It can't hurt to try to get as close a year as possible though. There are numbers on the top that change per model/year so you can tell that way if no other (someone said they found a list on line). Hope the old one works though... B

Congrats Kory!! Just think, some day I might let you work on my truck!!! Sacramento is about 100 miles from me and only 40 miles from the Sierras, as much mountain range as most people could want. Bound to be good wheeling up there, but I didn't own a 4x4 when I went to SSU. Only thing you'll have to get used to is the summer heat... I'm sure we'll meet once you get down here, I'm looking forward to it! B

^x2 I believe those are retaining/positioning clips, not vibration shims. Hack!! Why didn't you take it to a belt sander?? Do you need me to send some 2000 grit?? B

1) $30. Just bought a Quest alty last month. 2) Could there be anything with your system that is killing the alts? If not, yes, break the cycle. It really could stick you some time and it certainly isn't good for the battery. I have 3 or 4 alternators lying around, all used. 2 stock pathy, a Maxima and a Quest. No, the Maxima is in the Pathy now, I loose track... B

Ok, the thought behind this is that I have a set of used Warn hubs that I bought for my WD21 but have not yet installed. My GF's stock R50 has the drive flanges that I want to get away from to try to increase the gas mileage a little. Since the Warn part is the same for my WD21 and her R50 as per Warn, http://www.warn.com/truck/hubs/premium_application_chart.shtml I have to believe that the WD21 auto hubs should work fine on R50. I could not find any information on this as most people switch to manual hubs. What I hope to do is keep the convenience of not having to manually set her hubs and avoid buying another set of hubs for a vehicle which won't be leaving the road (intentionally). Any input?? The following is some of what I dug up on a search, but nothing seems answer my question. This could be handy for other people who want to avoid the drive flanges because there sure are a lot of WD21 autolockers laying around!!! B

Ahh, yes, conveniently 1 1/16" also. Now I remember... B

LOL Brain fart. It's usually the first thing I ask as most people seem to forget to... B

I want to say 28m?? Not 100% sure though, it's been a few months, sorry... B

Yes, it can. The hydraulic fluid will move what ever has the least resistance if it doesn not fill up the resevoir easily. I've never experimented with it but I can see it happening... B

Generally pistons will stick due to grime or corrosion and if this is cleaned off well will work again. Worth a shot if $ is an issue... B

Have you checked the ECU codes?? B

Hey James, I got a Smittybilt XRC8000 from 4 wheel parts for $250+tax. (Drove to the local store) Currently they are $299+ free shipping. Just saying that there are good options in that price range, and 8000lbs is considered the realistic minimum for the 4000lb Pathy, some people even go to 10k and 12k... http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-Winch-Accessories/Smittybilt-Electric-Winch-8-000-to-10-500-lbs.aspx?t_c=18&t_s=300&t_pt=100702&t_pl=6426 B