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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Yes, AC does and perhaps others. Some members have made their own and some just unbolt the rear bar on one side before wheeling. In general, I'd leave it on unless you hit the dirt though. B
  2. I'm not sure. Try cross referencing part numbers for trailer hitches from a part supplier like 4wheelparts or AC... B
  3. Agreed with everything. I've often chastised people for being unhelpful in the same manner, but then I like to chastise... Perhaps we should get rid of the emote to make it less tempting?? 35 or 36" tires are a good fit. There will be some rubbing for the first 100 yards or so until the fenders are sucked in and torn off. After that you are golden!! B
  4. Where in the world did you come up with that?? No ever said it can't be done, much less don't do it. Hell, a lot of the member here are irritated that the diesel was never imported, much less the Patrol... B
  5. I'm guessing 16", but why guess when it is displayed on the side of the tire? You can probably go as large as you want with the rim as long as you keep the same width, backspacing and do not have a total diameter larger than 31". Go to the R50 section to double check my info. Of course, if you wind up rinning 24" rims with 50 series tires, we'll probably have to ban you... B
  6. MaritimeMan rebuilt his and posted some info; search for it? Normally, the 5 speed manual tranny lasts long time... Go to the garage section and go to the pinned manual thread. at the end is a link to download a PDF of the shop manual for your truck, it'll cover the technical stuff. B
  7. I can't see it in my head. Any chance of pictures?? B
  8. I see it now. Yes, what was previously said about removing the seat bottoms, but it doesn't give you the storage space. I'd be banging elbows and heads all night though... B
  9. I can't see any images, just "posted image". B
  10. As Dave said, they are considerably slower (less power) than the V6, almost along the same line as the Z24. Yes, more torque and better mileage, who doesn't want that?? But you had better see what our glorious DMV says about converting a gas vehicle into a smog exempt diesel first. There may be some pretty big hurdles or even outright rules against it. B
  11. 4500 is low end?? So come on, give us some feed back or did it blow up already?? B
  12. $84 or $500 for rims??? Hmmm.... I paid $42.40 for mine. Before you ask us these questions, what is it you would like to do/plan to do with the truck, use wise?? B
  13. You didn't say if you are in the rust belt or not. That raises questions I don't comprehend. Having recently bought a 99 with 150k, check the brakes, driving (pulling, brakes, vibration, hesitation, etc), tire wear (for evenness), tune up items, etc. Make sure to test every light, switch, power function, etc. Check everything, bring a flash light and a creeper to look around underneath, and rags for checking fluids. When in doubt, walk away. That said, our purchase seems pretty good so far!! A loaded, comfy driving R50 is nice to own in addition to a wheeler. B
  14. Yep, I'm thinking it must be the electronics engaging the front. I don't know that year or electronics, but there doesn't seem to be any other answer for the front shaft turning. Is it possible to jumper the front ABS sensor so it think there is always perfect traction? As for the vibration, I'd have to guess something is off physically. U joint angle causing a light bind, bad U joints, imbalanced drive shaft, too long, something of that sort. Failing all else with Derek when he says go back to a TC without electronics. They are handy when working perfectly, but... B
  15. Thanks for the heads up, I know of 2 or 3 other people who have had this problem. It is rare, but it happens... B
  16. Sweet!! Thanks for doing that, I'll have to look at that closer when I'm not at work. Is it just me or do those UCAs look exactly like the ones posted in the For Sale section by Red, the Washington Craigslist ad? The ones we thought were AC arms?? Or do the AC arms look identical to the old JCR versions?? B
  17. Waiting... Wait... What were we talking about?? *wanders off* B
  18. If it's just the sway bar that is keeping you from towing a trailer, I have one on my parts truck that I can ship to you, Bud. That way you don't have to worry about how to carry a spare either... The most I'd ask is that you cover the shipping and maybe send the drop links back so I can fab up a quick release with them. B
  19. Yes. I had this on the wife's Honda Civic. Front end shimmy and the shop wanted to replace the rims. I drove it for 5 miles and said 'replace the CV', it did it more on the gas than off (torque binding). Unless you can't stand the thought of manually selecting 4wd, I highly recommend you buy manual hubs... B
  20. I like the gauges above the glove box. I've been wondering where to put a 3 pod... B
  21. LOL JJ At least it wasn't BigPil... B
  22. Aww, damn!! That looks like a major pain, not to mention a rude suprise!! I hear you with the loctite, I have it everywhere. As a matter of fact, I just picked some of this up to keep in the tool bag and for convenient application... http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-Stick-Treadlocker-Adhesive/dp/B000GZR5WK B
  23. They are fine, .003" won't make any real difference. All you risk doing is damaging the iridium tips. IIRC you are only supposed to check gap with a brass wire set, not steel... B
  24. Looks fine for light duty (150lb max) and you can't beat the price. With a little creative hardware, you could securely mount it. I say go for it. B
  25. You are not installing OEM plugs, are you?? Or Haynes plugs?? You have top quality spark plugs, so go with what the manufacturer recommends. It is their job, after all... .032" http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp B
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