Precise1

Other than general tune up basics, this is where to start. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 B

Could it have anything to do with the ignition wiring in the steering column getting pinched, seperated, etc?? The turning left thing is making me suspicious... B I meant turning right...

Well, the Bridgeport is at work, not my garage unfortunately. When I get settled somewhere it is on the list of things to have. Until then, I have to deal with my little Rong Fu mill/drill, which actually does pretty good. I'm going out tonight to do some quotes and disassembling so maybe sooner than later. I never thought of trying to use fiberglass but then I've never done that work before. I really mean it when I say that a custom housing for the clino guts is the best way and probably what I will do next time... I know the smitty combo unit you are talking about and as a machinist, I advise against it. It is irritating to spend extra time on set ups (not to mention between when you need to mill/turn/mill something) and they are very limited with travel and capacity. For roughly the same price, you are far better off buying a table top mill/drill and a seperate enco 9x20" lathe than the all-in-1 units (if you can't manage a Bridgeport and a Hardinge). Just saying from experience... No big loss, most of the jobs have gone to China anyway. Stick with copping, no shortage of crime and idiots... Yeah, I have been machining for almost 20 years so I'm pretty used to it by now. No worries Bud. Probably the most common and annoying thing I hear when I say I'm a machinist (other than "Can you work on motors??" ) is 'Can you make me a silencer?!?'. My answer is 'Yes, I can. No I wont. Dont ever ask me again." B

I know you are handy, and I work around air lines/tools all day also. Dude, you have nothing to worry about popping a mini 120PSI tank, that's not enough pressure for an explosive rupture. The worst thing that it will do is scare you and/or piss you off. Mount it somewhere high and shield it with a UHME PE skid and you are golden... My 3200psi aluminum scuba tank, on the other hand, would rip the ass out of your truck... B

Nothing to really add to that (Well done UNCCP) other than go to the Garage section and download the FSM that is pinned near the top. It will give you step by step instructions also. B

Sorry, I can't be of more help. Too bad you are so far away, I have a parts truck with a manual tranny sitting in the driveway... B

Never heard of it before, so don't worry. I just read this and good job zombie killer!!! (I now have a mental image of you as Woodie Harrelson in Zombieland) B

Nice!! Pictures might help the next guy... B

Seriously, have you checked the ECU for fault codes?? B

I'll repeat myself for the large, hairy and slow crowd... B

Hahaha!! Good input. B

Well, my first guess would be an issue with the linkage. I'm not an auto tranny pro so my only suggestion is that you go to the Garage section, download the FSM for the 94 model and follow the auto tranny diagnostic procedure that is defined. It might not give you the answer but it could rule things out or give ideas of what may have happened. Besides, it's free and can be done right away. B

Thanks E. At this point, I almost think the best thing to do is ditch the factory housing and just make a custom one. It would be shorter, narrower and not as deep. Not to mention easier to make... Not really. You obviously mistake me for someone else... LOL I can run a lot of machines, this was just hand work on a Bridgeport. Only if it is legal and you don't mind the shipping charges. Gun work is either easy or custom gunsmith worthy. I'm not a custom gunsmith. B

I can't prove it but it seemed like the SL (Rough Country twin) UCA had a lower bump stop, making for less down travel. CV safety feature?? B

Ok, I made the next step in progress this week. I milled out a pocket and put in a few tapped holes to mount the clino to it's new base while I figure out the dash mounting angles and bolt hole pattern. Here is the stack up in exploded view... The base bracket mounted to the base, a pretty good fit. The clino mounted to the base bracket. The cosmetic body installed by slipping it over the assembly, front and back. I'll probably still do some blending and rounding work to it, but so far it is exactly what I expected to make. Damn, I miss my CNC mill now!! Again, next step is milling the bottom down at the proper angle, putting in a few tapped holes and the final installation. TIP: I couldn't scare up any helicoils so what I did was tap 10-32 through the base for max engagement of threads. 10-32 has a minor diameter call out of .156-.164, but I drilled my core hole with a .154 drill. The hole shrunk down to .152 so it is a tight engagement from the start, feeling much like a nylon lock nut on a bolt. That should be plenty strong and if there is ever a problem, I can always helicoil it. B

I'm no good with electronics, but this seems Pin worthy for those with aptitude. Hell, maybe someone will start a side business fixing these things. Only side note: This is for the 86.5-93 gauge clusters as the 94-95 have a completely different set up?? I'm going to add a title description for clarity. B

Here it is. http://www.harborfreight.com/8000-lb-electric-winch-with-automatic-brake-67576.html The 10klb unit is $400 though, $120 more. You can buy a good snatch block and recovery strap for that. I don't know the Harbor Freight one, but I am jaded and don't buy much from them unless it is a single use item. What I did get was this, on sale for $250. Same basic design, 1.4hp more and with a roller fairlead. Just throwing it out there... http://www.4wheelparts.com/XRC8-Winch.aspx?t_pl=6208&t_pn=S%2fB97281 B

Don't disturb him. He's having a private conversation with himself. Let him be and he'll eventually wander away after a butterfly or seeing something shiney... The hubs (internal components) get lightly greased, but thats all they want. The heat is generated from the rotors or wheel bearings. Dry, worn out or too tight wheel bearings can heat things up and will usually need replacing by that time or heavy braking, towing or dragging brake pads will also make the hubs seem hot and can warp the rotors as well. There is nothing in the hubs that should generate heat. B

No worries. If you buy the used ones from the member here, can't it be declared 'Gift: Used car parts' or something... B

I've sent parts to Canada, Puerto Rico, New Zealand, etc and it isn't always that bad. Just trying to help. B

Nice!! B

But you don't have a lift, do you? He'll have 4" more clearance... B

*sigh* We have this discussion every month... All you really need for a suspension lift is rear springs and longer shocks. Some people even run stock UCAs but angle correcting units are recommended. Forget the front shoucks unless they are shot and I run the stock T-bars and I have a hefty front bumper. You haven't been watching the classifieds, have you?? Here is most of what you need. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27448 My suspension lift cost me about $200. Look for deals and save your $ for the other stuff... B BTW RoughCountrys are discontinued but the Superlifts are still available. They are the same product, just zinc plated instead of black painted.

I believe you are correct, and that's not the information you want, is it... B

Sorry, my bad. I was rushing a reply at work. Ok, more flex means more wear on bushings and such, but what I really think they are talking about in the rear shocks, especially if you ditch the rear sway bar. If you hyper extend, you can damage internals and there is "irreversible damage to suspension components", right?? There are some threads about what shocks people with lifts are running, and I know Slick has the same set up so maybe she can provide the shock info?? The other way is to flex and measure what range you need... B