Precise1

Sweet!! B

To note, I assumed you are installing polyurethane bushings Dowser. B

You can get the ARB for the Hardbody and modify the mounts a little, KMA (??) makes bumpers but they can be slow or have communication issues from what I have heard. Try to find a used bumper (one in Colorado but you have to buy the whole truck). Slim pickings, my friend... B

Well, don't ditch the WD21 but an R50 is a good addition. I'd buy it that cheap if nothing else is wrong with it!! (rare 5 speed) That said, how big tires can I fit on my Pathfinder?? Head to the R50 section and B

^ This is good info. I reset mine 3 times before I was happy, and I also errored on the tight side figuring the belt would stretch a little. Don't get to carried away though!! If it audibly whines when it runs, it is too tight, perhaps damagingly so. I know of a few members who reported a whine and each of them experienced cam or tensioner stud failure. On the other side, don't be paranoid because it only happened to a few people over many years. B

Can you measure or display the OD of the new bushings VS the diameter of the hole? I'm thinking you are fine like that but I need to confirm it. B

Yes, 94 was the first distributed electronic copy so that is what you will have to go with. It is fine for under the hood and the majority of other things. The main differences are the dash and related systems, bumper/fog lights, tie rod end tapers, etc. With the spark plugs, one important thing is that they are all similar in coloration/deposits so things are the same in all cylinders. Yeah, post it up... I can't help with the hiss; I can't hear it from here... B

*snort* Nice analogy!! Yeah, start with the vacuum lines, it's pretty cheap and easy and sounds like it will be trouble soon anyway. Go ahead and check all vacuum diaphrams for proper function while you are at it. Valve coloration may not be a recent thing, may have to do with hot spots in the head/manifold, etc. Spark plugs, on the other hand, show the immediate condition the best. Yes, 1000 miles is more than enough, 100 would probably suffice. Pull them and if you aren't sure, take some good pictures of them and post. We'll figure what is going on... B

Never use "a ton" of RTV, all you do is waste it or have it wind up inside what you are sealing. 1/16"-1/8" bead is all anything will ever need and even then it tends to squeeze out... B

Good Luck!! Just take your time and pay attention to details, it'll go smoothly... B

I'd read the cylinders by the condition of the spark plugs, not by the valves. If your idle runs in between 1k RPM and stall, yeah, there is a problem... Check the ECU for stored codes (Garage/How To section), clean your MAF and check the connection/wiring, download the 1994 FSM (pinned in the Garage section) and maybe check the TPS? Check for vacuum hose leaks... B

Unless you know a certified plastic welder, get a new radiator. Most any fix you can do isn't reliable and you won't make it far with a leak... B

You are welcome, there are a lot of us who know this job first hand... Yes, that is the right temp for the thermostat. Checking the timing: he means counting the teeth on the belt between marka on the pulleys and pulley position. It is all explained in those threads. Rob will be more expensive than Kragens on most things, but not terribly so and I like to think you are getting better quality. With the items that are very expensive, he will literally tell you to buy elsewhere. He is a very honest and knowledgable guy, a forum member and a WD21 owner so you can have confidence in what he says/recommends. B

LOL I noticed that... Thanks for passing it along. Alkorahil (aka Rob Lacy) works at a on line Nissan dealership and can get you good enough prices for factory parts (like belts) that it's not worth getting something iffy from Kragens or where ever. Look in the Services section... When I recently changed the timing belt I also changed the tensioner, cam seals, crank seal, thermostat, bypass hose, water pump, fan clutch, all accessory belts and the upper and lower radiator hoses. Overkill?? Maybe but it was about $400 in parts and everything on the front of the engine is new and should last until the next timing belt change in 100k miles, no to mention I have spares for everything now also. B

I'm glad you got it figured out and that there is no damage. In all honesty, the links I provided you would have walked you through how to align things, no matter where the cams and crank were (as with broken belt). That's the strength of the forum, the recorded information... B

Check out this thread, it is written by a Nissan/Infinity mechanic. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828 Here is another very detailed one. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23280&st=0&p=416969&hl=timing&fromsearch=1entry416969 B

That guy thought that truck was going to make it over those obstacles?? Maybe with a lot of mods, that thing is Mall Rated at best... B

If you are a tooth or two off that generally isn't damaging. I don't know what the limit is, but many people have reported being off 1-2 teeth and all they needed to do was go back and correct it. Don't worry about it, just focus on getting things right. There is a great write up in the Garage/How To section that will tell you everything you need to know to correct it... B

I bet it was the O2 sensor but good, I'm glad you got it running right. That is the same I do for plug #6 and I even put a pen mark on the firewall so I can line up the extension the same way for easier reinstallation and no crossthreading. Are you sure?? Sometimes I wonder... B

No, just pull the front console where the switch is and go off of that, even if you fuse and relay it elsewhere... B I forgot you have the old square dash so I don't know what that would be like. On the round dashes it's easy to get to.

Yep, that sounds about right. It's not that bad though... You still haven't gotten the plug out?? You tried soaking it with penetrant?? Heating it?? Beating it?? How bunged up is the square drive hole, will a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar still fit?? If so, put one in and shim it with steel shims as tight as possible, turn the handle so it is at a right angle, put a floor jack under it so it is forced into the plug and you don't have to try to hold it in then (try to) rotate it back and forth both directions until it starts to turn. The last one I did was so tight that when I heaved on it all I did was slide all 200lbs of me out from under the truck. I had to use the floor jack method, brace one foot on the frame and wrap one leg around a tire before I could get enough leverage. I just slit the carpet an inch or two in the corners, it's not too bad to get in there. Just be patient. B

Go to the Product Review section and look for a thread called rust preventors or something, all the info is there and it is all good... B

If it works... Just don't be prejudiced without studying before hand. I had a huge thumper that absolutely sang at higher RPM and was a joy to ride. My 87 BMW K75 with an inline 3 cylinder (laying on it's side) runs so smooth (other than between 4700 and 5000 rpm) that the exhaust note is a whistle and the engine is a proven bullet proof design. My CBR1100XX inline 4 has twin gear driven counter balancers that work so well the mirrors don't shake at any speed. There are many great designs out there that depart from the simple or standard ones but are just as able and long lasting. Technology can do wonders, no reason to fear it... B

Can you get to them with the little flexible 4 finger metal claw grabber deals?? If not, I might still have them from when I sold Adam my heated, power mirrors. B

How can a 650cc single even run?? Would you expect an inline 3 cylinder to run smoothly? Ever drive an Audi Quattro?? B