Precise1

Yep, try to get it to rotate, maybe 1/16-1/8 turn either direction while pulling. Once it breaks loose it should twist right out. Try by hand and be gentle yet persistant. Worst case is that you break the injector in 1/2 and have to remove the fuel rail, but the one came out of my wife's R50 with 160k miles pretty easy. B

Yep, middle one on the passenger side and I don't see why you would need/want to pull the plenum. Like was said, match injectors, install new O-rings, grease and go easy and you should not have any issues. Make sure to relieve fuel pressure first and drain the fuel rails so it doesn't all pool in the cylinder... B

Isn't your buddy a bit young to be driving?? Looks good!! B

Ok, fine... B

I like this idea and want my rear belts back. B

Didn't the R50s all come with drive flanges that bolt on? Manual hubs can be locked in for 1/2 the year and disconnected the rest of the time... B

x2 on Moog. Beck Arnley is another reliable name. B

Ok, I understand and agree, thanks for the info. Generally these trannys are bulletproof in Pathys, I don't know many people who have had to open theirs up but while you are there, you might as well upgrade whatever is cost effective and sensible... B

I'm at work and didn't watch the video. Essentially it soulds like you understand the procedure and I agree, bleeding is line nomenclature. You are more burping the MC but that sounds odd too... B

The raising of the fill hole position/capacity is the only change that I have heard of and I did not know of any weakness of 3rd gear. B

The ECUs aren't easily chipped. IIRC a programmable chip has to be soldered in?? Check out Jim Wolf, they do it. B

*snort* You have a 50/50 chance if you offer to pay in diapers. Unused... B

I'm guessing that you have an automatic tranny?? The 'traditional' way is out through the front. You have to clock it in a few stages along the way for clearance and the tranny lines are usually the last hurdle. It can be done though, do not give up or get mad. It is a PITA for everyone without a body lift. I'm certain there has to be a write up/description around here. Could have sworn k9sar did one... B

When 'tapping' races in, always use a non ferrous soft alloy such aluminum or brass drift pin with a brass or non metalic dead blow hammer. No fear of scoring the races then... B

The Redline should work fine, many people here have used it and I do not recall a single complaint other than perhaps price. As for the pilot bushing/bearing, I'm not sure. I haven't done a lot of tranny work or examined these. Best bet would be to go to the Garage section in the pinned Factory Service Manual thread, download the earliest (1994) and look at the exploded view to see what that shows you. The tranny is the same over the years IIRC. B

Tex has been keeping track of the number for leaky seals VS non-leaking and IIRC 2/3 of the motors have a leaking seal, usually the passenger side cam seal. Mine was leaking and I changed both cam and the crank seal. If you reuse the waterpump, make sure to clock the fan clutch and that it mounts exactly the same way. If you change the balance/runout of a used waterpump, it generally won't last too long. I replaced everything when I changed my timing belt, including the water pump and fan clutch. I insist on reliability, my time is $ so I like to do hings right and once when I can and I do not plan to touch anything on the front of the motor for the next 100k miles... B

It sounds like your best option is to buy some used, good condition stock manifolds. Check around your area and post a thread in the parts wanted section. I have a set, but they are buried in my garage from moving last weekend and I'm in NorCal. B

Sorry Bud, I didn't look to see that you are in ice fishing country. No garage?? Yes, that is the stuff. Some people like to run it in their motors and I'm not too sure about that, but I do think it belongs in gear boxes and differentials. I put some in my first pathy with the MT and it certainly didn't cause any problems. B

Wiggle the MAF wiring? Inline fuel filter? EGR valve? Unfortunately, there are many things that need to be checked. Go to the Garage section, and the pinned topic of Factory Service Manual. Download one and follow the diagnostics... B

Ok then, step one is to get that stuff out of there. Get some GL-4 only oil in the right wieght (75-W90 IIRC) or some Redlime MTR-90, put 5.1 liters into the tranny through the shifter hole, maybe reserve 1 liter for Lucas oil stabilizer and that might 1/2 cure the problem and offset further degradation. B

Ok, so you are limited to a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck/van then, which will get lousy mileage unless you can find a diesel, but then diesel costs more anyway. Regardless, you probably won't find anything worth buying for less than it takes to fix the pathy. I'm actually not telling you to fix/keep the pathy, I'm pointing out that for your needs/wants/prices you are going to have a hard time finding something that will work. B

I had several. To those still with us and those who have fallen along the way... B

That's a hell of a gift!! Give her a kiss for me... B

I'm glad no one was seriously hurt, that is what matters. The hell with sheet metal, it can be replaced. Sure it sounds like the lady is irresponsible both with her driving and her social responsibility (how the hell do you run into a trailer in a residential area hard enough to total your car??) but I blame the state for not making insurance manditory. People will usually try to get away with as little as possible... B

Get the part numbers or aftermarket compatable numbers and see if they are the same... B