vengeful

I don't have first hand experience with it...I'm just going on what I was told by a mechanic of 30 years who is the only mechanic that I trust 100% with my vehicles.

OK, well.... A new development as of the last hour. I've found a guy here in Phoenix that is willing and able to make rear bumpers and tire carriers for the R50s...I have him scheduled to call me at 6PM tomorrow. If you're interested, or potentially interested in one, let me know. It would likely be very similar to Radek's bumper.... I'm also going to talk to some of the local WDers and see if anyone in the area is wanting a rear bumper/tire carrier so he can get a pattern for those as well.

That thing will DESTROY your departure angle.

That's all I needed to hear!

You absolutely do NOT want to use Dexcool in your Pathy. It will eat up your cooling system. Just use the regular, recommended green stuff.

What year Pathfinder are you looking for help on? The installation would be different based on the year of your truck.

1. Already answered. I think the RS9000x is better for wheeling, because it affords you the option of adjusting the shock. I do NOT recommend getting the in-cab controller, because it is known to cause leaks in the shock, which lead to premature failure. 2. Absolutely, definitely, most certainly, YES. You need two sets, one for each side. Without it, you will NEVER get your alignment anywhere near spec. Your camber will be appoximately +2.5° and it will eat your tires in no time flat. 3. I just reused the factory bumpstops. There is no reason to change those. 4. Yes, it certainly does matter! Warns are high-quality, fully tested ISO9001/2000 compliant products. The Mile Markers are not. You decide if the extra cost is worth it. One broken MM hub and you'll be wishing you bought the warns though! I've been through this before, so if you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask.

No...The R50 lacks the internal hardware to retrofit a rear carrier on a vehicle that is not factory equipped with one. It COULD be done, but it would be a lot more work than would be worth, and you'd have to have some tiny tiny hands and arms to be able to reach behind the reinforcing sheetmetal in the rear corners of the truck in order to get the bolts and nuts to line up - and even then, you'd be going at it blindly. And that doesn't even begin to consider that you have to swap the tailgate and the rear bumper to a tire carrier compatible version.

Just as I was about to point you in the direction of Jared...the link has already been posted. It's been done in a HB, so I see no reason why it cant be easily done in a Pathfinder. As was already said, you'll need to switch over the engine electricals and fuel stuff as well. It really shouldn't be that hard of a swap, in theory.... Good luck, and keep us posted!!

Hahaha...I've seen that before. It's classic, but no, I actually generated that post off the top of my head... I went to high-school in the ghetto in DC...forgive me. Haha.

I was wondering what happened with that X!!!

This was going to be in Washington State. The original poster is in Milton. I'm not sure where the shop would be located. And I don't know if anything ever came of this. This thread started back in March of 2004.

Was the timing belt ever changed on it? From the sound of it, I'd say that the timing belt failed and the interference engine known as the VG30i...well, interfered. There are a few options as to what you can do next: 1. Replace the motor with another VG30i. - My recommendation. 2. Swap in a different, higher performance motor. 3. Cut your losses and part out the truck - PLEASE DON'T THOUGH! If, as you say, the motor is indeed siezed, there is really no saving it at this point.

Well, I can get the T-max EW-9000 for $550 shipped...so...who wants to give me $550.

Tell you the truth, I dunno if they'll honor online prices in the store.

I've been to the one in Phoenix. But the problem is, when you go to the store, you have to pay tax. And the in-store pricing is higher than the online pricing.

Not at all! But, if it takes me 8 weeks to get a defective product again, and then have all kinds of trouble getting them to take it back, then it's not worth the hassle!

I've heard of and had bad experiences with them.

I carry spares.

Wow....I cannot believe I just actually typed that...

Yo Homie...you best check yo self...dem be skrate up pimp yo! I be dropin dat 12 G's on does ryimz fo mah Lac nex monf!

I'm getting ready to buy a winch, and I'm doing some comparative shopping. I've looked at: Warn XD9000 - Too rich for my blood Mile Marker SE9500 - Have some negative experiences with Mile Marker stuff, but not their electric winches T-Max EW9000 - never seen or had any experiences with T-max I know that the Warn is probably the best one out of the three, but it's also $800, and for that price, I'd rather buy a locker. I'm looking to spend around $500. I can get either the MM or the T-Max for about that price. I've compared stats, and they seem to be relatively comparable on statistics. The one outlier is the T-Max has a substantially higher HP rating than the MM. Anyone have any experiences with either and can shed some light on these in terms of quality, warranty service, reliability, etc? TIA

Except that the narrower your footprint, the smaller your contact patch is, and the less surface area you have contacting the ground. This decreased surface area means less traction. (Exception: snow where you want to dig through the snow to the pavement/ground.) I'd suggest that you stick with the 245s, or even go with a 255 for normal driving, and pick up a second set of designated snow tires in a 215.

There's also a gromet behind the engine just drivers side of center. That's what I use.

15-16 mixed? Consider yourself lucky....I can barely eek 15 highway.... 12-13 City....