hardwaretoad

You must've worn pants with BIG pockets... a must when visiting J/Y's...

Here you go. Stock '87 with 31x10.50x15's on Legos... no lifts at all. Yeah, I know it's not a '96 or up...

You must be building some sort of boulevard sleeper to take the ricer boys to task at the stoplights. A s/c makes alot more sense in just about any other application that the Pathy would find itself in. Typical Japanese twin-turbo set-ups (Mazda, Toyota, Nissan) use the small turbo spinning all the time, with the second one kicking in depending on throttle position, sensors, etc., thus doing away with the dreaded lag of a single turbo set-up. As far as a turbo on anything going offroad... maybe you're planning on entering it in the local rally series or something ?

Ahhh, I see now. Was hard to tell from your pic in your profile ~ it's expanded metal, right ? I was looking to install something a little more "finished" looking. I know there's some "dress-up" aluminum grills (saw one on a Pathy @ CarDomain), looked similar to some that good ol' J.C. Whitney used to carry ~ square aluminum tubing that mounted in there. Never got a lead as to where the guy had gotten his... FYI ~ click on the diff stickies re: Resize you pictures, etc. ~ they'll give you a little guideline as to what's an acceptable size for submitting. Piece of cake to resize in Paint, Photoshop, Picture It, etc. Big pics hit the server hard & plays havoc with dial-up users.

I remember seeing a pic of it in another post, could tell it was a construction sign by virtue of the orange color. Think I made a comment in there, too... I wasn't insinuating that you'd stolen that one... just a comment from my work experience ~ the fact that in my 7+ years working there we had 12 deaths in the county directly related to a$sholes stealing stop signs, etc. Matter of fact, I think it is a "high school thing"... I'm guilty of going out & checking the choke pattern on my 12 guage on any available sign I could find back in my day, too...

As long as they're ones that've been "retired" ~allready taken down because of condition, etc. Back when I was younger I worked in Signing & Striping for a County Highway Dept. and people could come in & request them and pay next to nothing for a whole pile of them. Nice stuff... I had a couple of Baja bugs that I built that had aluminum firewalls, door panels, skid plates, etc. ~ a perk of working there. One thing I have to say ~ NEVER TAKE DOWN STREET SIGNS OUT ON THE ROAD !!!! ~ people's lives depend on them. It's the epitome of stupidity to go out & steal signs off the side of the road... you could kill someone. BTW, good lookin' skid there, nick1716... I'll get off my soapbox now...

LOL ! ~ maybe a sticky is in order for this...

There is a crossmember that you either have to add or change as well if memory serves me correctly...

Looks good, the black Legos mix well with the green. BTW what kind of grill insert you running? I'm tired of lookin' at my stock one...

Good scores there, DanCamm. Nothing to pick from in my area at all. That's a b*tch that they're hitting you with a cover charge just to go in & look, 90seven... is there a 2 drink minimum too ? -alcohol-

It attaches to the top of the back of the rear seat, is self-storing & pulls out & hooks to the rear hatch to cover all your gold bullion that you carry around with you...

Sounds like a stuck thermostat...

Has the mech torn into it yet ? If not, how can he justify 5 large for a rebuild ? Tough to diagnose damages when you can't see them ~ to a certain extent anyway. If you got it shut down right away when it broke, it's possible that you kept internal damage to a minimum. I know valve & head damage is a distinct possibility when the belt lets go, something about Nissans being "non-dedicated" or something like that. The valvetrain doesn't float "free" of input when a belt jumps or breaks, causing major problems. I'd go along the way jj suggested... the Japanese pull-outs usually have under 30k miles on them. You could probably pick one up & have it installed for 1500-2000, depending on different things of course. Beats 5 large any day. :contract: Be hard to recoup your investment, but a new motor would be a point in your favor when you go to sell it. If none are available locally, you might try these guys for one out of a wreck: Nissan Only Wrecking Good luck no matter which way you choose... BTW, I had mine "jump" a couple of cogs while on vacation, just outside Searchlight, Nv. about 6 years ago. Ended up having to have it put on the back of a truck & hauled to the stealer in Henderson. Got lucky as to no "big" damage ~ but it was still the better part of $1k to get back on the road, $200 of that being the truck ride... new belt, retime it, etc. They had me by the shorthairs, ya know? What can you do on the side of the road in BFE? :furious:

Is it just your highbeams? If so, there's a good chance that it's the contacts in your combo switch. There's about a half dozen screws that hold the 2 halves of your steering column together. Once you're in there pop the combo switch loose (2 screws), just a matter of opening it up ~ carefully ~ and cleaning the brass contacts. They also might need some tender tweaking so that they make better contact. That works alot of times but to replace the whole schlemeel is what I did... the cams inside on mine were worn past the point of no return, no surprise seeing how the whole thing's plastic. Should be under a C note for a new one ~ and 10 minutes of your time. :contract:

And all this time I've been carrying insurance in case I do get in an accident... never knew you could put it on after an accident. Or are you meaning that you usually just pay out of pocket when you hit someone ? :confused: Might try these guys for parts... Nissan Only Wreckers

Ghetto fab...

If all you want is an inch in the back, why don't you just go with a spacer on the top of the coil to effectively push the rear down? Seems easier than trial & fit on JGC coils to me...

Point I was trying to make was that things aren't always what they seem... gotta admit, the Gwagen was/is a very capable rig. If it's good enough for the Pope... :bow:

Yeah, neat idea... but why's it paved & striped ?

I can drive 30 miles from my house and make that one along the cliffs look like they're on a major freeway... it's called Buttercup Valley ~ looks like the middle of the Sahara... except on Holiday weekends of course. -alcohol- As far as you know, there's the European equivalent of a Howard Johnson's right behind the guy that took the pic... And welcome, 05...

Just hit the search key up at the top... type in body lift, suspension lift, torsion bar adjusting, JGC coils, torsion bar re-indexing, to name a few. Try also the "sticky" threads at the top of the Garage section pertaining to lifting. All will give you a very good idea as to what will do what, & how much it'll take to do it. -study- After studying a little, you'll be more informed as to not ask quite so generic a question. There's too many different ways to lift, you can lift a little or alot ~ what you want of your rig after it's done will decide which way you go... If you can slam 'em, you can lift 'em too. Not my cup of tea, but on the 620's... and kudos for picking up a Pathy ~ looks pretty clean.

They probably stripped the threads out of the pan... drain plug takes no torque at all to snug up, just foolish (& lazy) for the mech to use a rattle gun on it in the first place. I ran into probs with the local Yota dealer when I took my Supra in to have the heater blower replaced. Got the car back & the power antenna wasn't working ~ the leads for it run through the same area under the dash, which I pointed out to them. The mech claimed that nothing for the antenna was in the area that he worked in (wrong, liar). They claimed no responsibility... "merely a coincidence" said the service manager. I ended up taking the CD player out & what do you know ? The switched lead had been torn loose. I'm contemplating sending them a freaking bill for my time & aggravation.

3.5"- 4" BS would seem to be about right. 88's running 4" BS with 33x10.50's. I've got 31x 10.50's on stock Legos (5"BS) and have some rub at full lock. Of course that's without any BL or SL, both of which you'll need (and fender trimming) to run 33's. Unless you plan on not turning or going over anything. As far as sticking out too far... that's why God invented fender flares ! :bow: Hopefully I've got this right... chime in everybody! :gossip:

I thought the chrome steels were 6" and the alloy Legos were 7"... correct me if I'm wrong. I've got 31x10.50x15's on my Legos (5"BS) and there is some rubbing at full lock. Not much, but it's there. If you were to go to an 8" rim with say a 3.75" or 4" BS for your 31's, you'd be happier. As it's been mentioned, no way will 32's fit without lifting and/or cutting.

You bet, eh! Matter of fact it's on later this evening, plan on tuning in. I have to say though that I liked the earlier shows better than the ones they've been putting up lately... I think he used more duct tape in them. :bow: The one about the homemade ski rope-tow was great, so was the "Cigarette Bus" modification... classic.