hardwaretoad

Run a search for something like "AC balljoint spacers ruined my..." posted by 88. It goes into detail as to what these can possibly do to your parts. Some people have had no problems with them, others are another story entirely. You'd be better off getting aftermarket UCA's to get things back to a resemblance of proper angles, than the spacers used in conjunction with your stock arms.

Seems to me I read somewhere that the ones for the H/B trucks could be used. Not sure if it was for the Z24i or the KA24E motor or how much ghetto fabbing would be required, though... Anybody else heard of this? :confused:

*Bold highlight mine By this do you mean that it like backfired & started running crappy, or "up and bam" as in it was just a sudden event? Did it "cough" or anything? Possibly you've jumped a cog on your timing belt if it did, how many miles on yours? I'm just trying to think outside the bad fuel or plugs/wires boxes. Sounded like you've already checked those things... Have you checked the distributor? Cracked cap, loose adjustment clamp, things like that. 88's right, 91 won't do anything for you... mine's lived most of it's life in Nv. on 85 octane with no detrimental effects, but that's another story... -study- Let us know how you fare... :type:

Glad I could help. Take the time & 20 bucks (remember, I saved you some sssh ) to get a Haynes, Clymer, or a Chilton's repair manual for your appropriate year. It'll give you an idea as to where to start, or even help you to reference different topics going on here in the threads. -study-

Sure sounds like a dead coppertop. Is it a Pimp Boy's battery? Probably lucky it lasted 8 months... :oops: Have you done a volt & ammeter check? Is it a sealed battery where you can't check the specific gravity of the cells? At 8 months old, at the very least it should be under warrantee & a replacement given to you prorated. Take it back & have them test it... while you're there see if they'll check your alternator and the rest of your charging system, too. -thnkboutit- It'll run with it disconnected....

I guess I've been spoiled by living my whole life in the wide-open West, it always seems strange to me that people have to pay to use a park to go out wheeling... Does look like a nice facility, though. Have fun, be safe, and take pics....

Pretty easy, actually. There's like 6 or 7 screws holding the cluster face on, then 4 more holding the cluster itself in. When you get it loose, tilt it towards you & reach around to disconnect the various electrical connections. Be careful!! The cable is a press fit & should come loose when you pull the whole cluster out. If it broke in half, you'll have to take it loose at the tranny as well, just unscrew it. Lube up the new one with graphite & feed it in from the speedo side. When it gets down to the tranny hook it into the drive gear and retighten the collar. Offer up the guages slipping the end into it's receptacle on the back, hook your wires back up, a few screws later & your on your way... Just take your time, no need to hurry when you could mess up alot of stuff on the back of the guages. Plus, it's all plastic ~ don't force anything & you'll be fine... Get any burned out lights while your in there, too... -thnkboutit-

The trouble with the Bushwacker ones is that they're a copy of the stock flares, basically identical to what he has. The larger cut-out flares are only available for H/B pickups, whether or not they'll fit a Pathy I'm not sure. Seems like I've read that the H/B's have a differently shaped rear wheel well than our rigs. Anybody know for sure ?? That's why I suggested the HiLux flares... -thnkboutit- Plus at over 400 bucks, they ain't exactly cheap... :eek: Wonder what that front bumper weighs...

Might not be too bad a deal for someone that's not afraid of a little work. Plus, you could post the leftovers back on eBay. The one sitting on the ground was brought up in another thread here just a little while ago. The guy was wanting the buyer to haul it off or strip it there, supposedly he was going to use the frame for a streetrod project if I remember right. Never did figure that one out... There's not one speck of rust on my '87's body or frame either, even though most of it's life was spent in northern Nevada where salt/sand is used on the highways. I think statikuz can attest to the terrible conditions up that way in the winter, I've even seen it snow in June there. Thorough cleaning of the body & undercarriage weekly made sure it never got a start, although I had my doors freeze shut more than once after visiting the local carwash! Helped that the the guy that owned it the first 2 years of it's life was kind of anal (like moi) when it came to cleaning it, too... I'll just state the overtly obvious: Crawl over, under, & through a rig you're looking at. Take it to a competent mechanic for a checkup ~ if the owner/dealer balks, walk/run away. Not sure how you do that off of eBay, though... caveat emptor. :contract:

I think Mr P has it right...

That's part of the diversity antenna, you'll have to make sure your replacement windshield is equipped accordingly. Also, if you ever have to replace your fender mounted antenna you'll need an adaptor to hook the windshield mounted one to your new one, unless it's a Nissan antenna and not an aftermarket one. That being said, I've replaced my fender antenna without hooking up the windshield antenna & have noticed no difference in reception. Depends on how good your receiver is. Personally, I wouldn't bother spending the extra cash for the windshield antenna, I'd just make sure it's tinted & let it go at that...

I ran into some pics of one of those Icelandic rigs with the 35"-38" meats on it on another site. It was a pre-'96 Pathy 4 door, and he was using fiberglass flares for an '88 Toyota Hilux to cover them ~ swapped front to back. They looked really good, and there was no problems covering those 14.50" wide floatations... I've seen pics of early Pathy's from Oz that were sporting some nice wide paintable flares on them, too. Maybe some of our overseas Terrano owners have a link...

Yeah, like about the 235's...

New lugs, centercaps, valvestems, etc. are all add-ons... :contract:

How's the frame, grumpy? That looks like it's mostly cosmetic...

Lookin' good there, nick1716. Nice job...

Yeah, I was just agreeing with you, statikuz. Seems like any time I want to whip something out quick, that's when a bolt or a stud snaps on me or something... Probably just get into too big of a hurry ~ "this'll be easy" mentality at work. Or Murphy's Law, maybe...

Thanks, guys, on the "report". I've had chrome steelies on other rigs, but have never had U.S.'s ~ was curious about their quality. As with any wheel, whether steel or alloy, a little PM goes a long way to keeping 'em shining. I think Mother's makes great products... Being in Az, rust is the least of my worries with summer coming! Nothing like a black rig when it's 120...

I gotta agree with Matterhorn ~ the cut to fit look like crap, they will warp and look crappier the longer they're on your rig, too. The stock ones can be painted to match your rig with flexible bumper paint or the plastic "fusion" type of paint, doing away with the UV blues... they're a b*tch to ArmorAll, anyways.

I think I'd add new wires to those plugs, and check the shocks/struts, too ~ just me, though. Jack the rig up, support it, put it in neutral, and give 'em a spin ~ if they turn the same direction you've (she) has the LSD rear. Opposite spin means an open diff. Of course, I think I'd look on the rear pumpkin to see if it has an orange sticker on it first ~ signifying an LSD... -thnkboutit- Oh, and don't forget the blinker fluid reservoir... :secret: Sorry to hear the '94 got wrecked, I've got a soft spot for black Pathy's. Glad your daughter's O.K. and hope she has good luck with her new one.

Ahem.... Shock trouble for canuklehead It's the "10 minute" jobs that end up taking 2 days & countless trips for parts, etc. in my experience...

Mandrel (mandril) bending is the only way to go to get smooth exaust flow, you absolutely don't want choke points hurting your escaping gasses. -thnkboutit- 98silverpathy, I'd take it back & demand that they install your piping correctly ~ a competent shop would've never bent it so drastically as to reduce your pipe diameter by folding it over, etc. You paid your hard-earned cash, make 'em do it right... :contract: If the places you're going to don't have a simple tool like a mandrel pipe bender, I'd be looking for a more competent shop...

Jaype, I'd read, read, read. Hit the search button on lifts (body & suspension), headers, tire & wheels, intakes, etc. 'til you can't read any more. Then read some more! -study- Also, check the pinned topics at the top of the garage section, most of the more common topics listed above will be there ~ click & learn. If something's not clear to you, you can always start a post in the appropriate section. Same thing in a thread that you find that relates to what you're wanting to do ~ by posting a reply it'll bring the thread back up to the top. They slide into oblivion all too quick sometimes, and then can get hard to find... :type: Wanting "to do some mods" is pretty general, it depends on what you want or need out of your vehicle ~ what's good for a hardcore offroad rig won't be right for a "weekend warrior's" rig, or visa-versa. There's give & take in all of it, think it out, jump in & ask questions, and you & your rig will be happier for it. Welcome to NPORA...

Something to remember is that by routing your exaust out the back you're changing your departure angle for the worse and putting it in a position to have damage done to it much easier, too. Guess that wouldn't matter if you don't take it too hard offroad... -thnkboutit- But they do look better coming out the back... As far as the exaust re-entering, I argued in another thread with a couple of guys that were discussing putting like a power lift on the rear glass so the guy could open it while he was cruising down the road to supplement his 2-55 A/C. I voiced my concerns about CO poisoning, etc. ~ they blew me off. I've got to almost 50 knowing a few things not to do... :secret:

Be forewarned that peeps using JGC coils for a rear lift have been using stock used JGC V8 front ones, not aftermarket lift coils. Even at that, they've been cutting the top of the pigtail off & chamfering the edges so they fit correctly... -study- Just thought I'd give you a heads up...