hardwaretoad

Some first class fabbing going on there...

Sounds about right...

Very clean, welcome back to Pathyland...

Think about it, the driver's side gets used more. It's probably a combination of gunk in the tracks and burned/pitted contacts in the operating switch. The lube will help no matter what time of year it is, BTW...

Welcome to the forums. Not alot you can do to the early VG30 with TBI for extra power. Headers, free flow cat and muffler, K&N air cleaner are the obvious ones. Check into L & P ~ they've got a few tricks up their sleeves for us early Pathy owners... adjustable cam gears, porting & polishing of the TBI, etc. Here's a link... L & P Performance Of course you could always take the SB out of that 'stang...

Adjustable shocks were available as an option, my '87 SE had them. I did what alot of owners have ~ when they wore out, rather than buy the dealer's pricey replacements I just bought a good pair of manual ones. Check your local Autozone or something like that, stick with name-brands and you'll be fine. Rancho's and the like are great, but if you're only going to offroad on the odd occasion buy a set of Gabriel's or something and save some money... :contract:

No problemo... Just remember, about the most you can go up is 2" or so. Trying to go higher will make it very hard to align and will wear out steering parts without going to aftermarket upper contol arms (UCA's). Make sure you're not setting on your bump stops, either ~ you'll have no downward travel in the suspension. You can get low profile stops that'll give you a little more room, too. Good luck, it's getting closer to spring all the time... -bounce-

1. No 2. No 3. Yes try this, it's pretty straight forward: Torsion Bar Lift If they're really fatigued, you might have to re-index them first to be able to crank them adequately. Here's a link for that, too: Re-indexing Torsion Bars Good Luck... and welcome to the forums !

This week's rotation, subject to change: Pink Floyd ~ A Momentary Lapse of Reason, Delicate Sound of Thunder Collective Soul ~ Youth Peter Gabriel ~ Us, Shaking the Tree Depeche Mode ~ Violator Kenny Wayne Shepherd ~ Trouble Is Roger Waters ~ Radio K.A.O.S. Tom Petty ~ Greatest Hits Loreena McKennitt ~ Book of Secrets.....in case I feel road rage coming on !

Try about a 1" crank on your front end, might do away with your rubbing problem. You shouldn't need a BL, alot of Pathys came stock with 31's on them. To have a shop do a body lift will more than likely run you several hundred dollars... Just do a search here for torsion bar adjusting or re-indexing... matter of fact, here's a link to a good one: Torsion Bar Lift Welcome to the forums...

Welcome to the forums, pfb1. Try a post in the parts wanted section, or try looking in the parts for sale just extend the search time back a little, to 60 days or so, good chance you'll find some things people are still trying to get rid of...

Where did you read that ?

Yeah, a couple of 15"-ers up there would get them pedestrians a hoppin', foshizzle !

My suggestion would be to get a quote from a reputable 4x4 shop that's experienced in BL's... try a couple different ones & see what they come up with. It could easily run you several hundred dollars. Or try a "local-area-NPORA-I'll-buy-the-beer-&-pizza-body-lift-installation party" thread and see if you get any helpers... Are you running the 31's on stock rims? I have some minor rubbing at full lock with mine on the stock Legos ~ mainly due to the backspacing. Same tires on different rims might remedy that. Many a Pathy came factory equipped with 31x10.50x15's, for the most part you shouldn't be experiencing excessive rubbing just by running them without a BL...

Here's a link for ECU stuff: Jim Wolf Technology, Inc. After a little checking, I'm not sure there's headers available for your year. Sorry if I got you all excited... It looks like I steered you wrong on them. :o With a little searching here, you can find out anything you need, whether it's mods or the right place to find parts/upgrades, to simple/not simple repairs... :bow: I steered you wrong on the ECU, too, after doing some reading. You've got the OBDII system on yours. Either a shop will have to retrieve your codes, or I think you can buy some reasonably priced OBDII readers now days for home use. Once again, sorry for misleading you... sssh

Have you checked your timing lately? It's possible the decrease in power from when you had it done might be due to your timing going off. I think the cold air intakes come with a new cone-type air cleaner. Switching to OD will drop your rpms but do nothing for power, as you've found out. Headers will give you a boost, as will having your ECU reprogrammed. Stay clear of the Ebay "bolt-on/plug in" programmers, magnets, etc. ~ it's all just crap to separate you & your money... :contract: How long since your last tune up ? Try running your ECU in diagnostic mode & see what comes up, too.

k9sar, virtually every Pathy suffers from that one... mzxtreme, why would a ball joint make a squealing noise when driving in a straight line ? Might be a combo of dirt/dust/rock in the backing plate maybe...

Sounds like you have a tweaked window channel or two. I made my own little panel removal tool out of some scrap flat stock... just cut like a "v" in the end, wrap the handle end in good ol' duct tape. In a pinch 2 butter knives will work too... just doesn't leave you a free hand to pull on the panel. Above all be gentle, otherwise you can rip the clips right through the panel, then it'll never stay on unless you screw it in place. :furious:

Lotsa work there, MrP ! Seems I read in a post either here or possibly one of the other Nissan boards that you can do some cutting inside of the boot to do away with the "hard shifting". Good luck on the binding...

I think you're confusing 1st generation Pathys with 2nd generation ones as far as the "shock & the spring in the front". Sounds like you've been looking at the post about the coil-overs for the McPherson strut front-ends on the R50's. The JGC coils wouldn't lift a Pathy with a rear carrier as high... an extra 100+ lbs. hanging off the extreme rear would see to that, simple physics. It would depend on alot of things ~ how used & abused the donor springs are, for example. You could always go buy some new lift springs for a JGC to assure max lift... :contract:

Well, I'm not 88, but I think I can answer a couple of your questions. That's called a compression rod there on the front suspension, 87mudfinder. I'd try & find some "un-bent" ones off of a wrecker, not sure what the stealer wants for 'em, but I'm sure it'd be more. Might not be that much for the peace of mind of having new components up there... :contract: Not much to say about worn gear but that the thing will be all over the road ~ crapped out ball joints, etc. have a habit of sending you wandering because of all the slop in the respective joints. One's bad enough... if they're all gone you'll be having some interesting looks from the cops ~ "Have you been drinking, Sir?" -alcohol- As far as the JGC coils, the reason they lift the rear on the Pathy has to do with the fact that they're designed to support a big ol' cast iron V8, on top of being somewhat longer in design. Since the pigtail's cut to fit the Pathy (thereby reducing overall height), it's not so much additional spring height as it is increased weight capacity of the coil itself that pops your rear up. If they'll handle the Heep's pig-iron motor, they'll probably handle anything you might have in mind... like a coil sprung SAS perhaps?

LOL... I was wondering if he had matching windshield wipers to go with that... :X

I can take all the shots you want, but not sure how much good they'd do you as mine's an '87 ~ seeing how you have a'93...

I didn't think there were any left down there, I think they're all in school in Yuma, Az.

Apples & oranges... the turbo diesel is a nice motor for the Pathy/Terrano. It'll be interesting to see how Airrun comes out with this... fab away, my man ~ and good luck. Keep us posted...