hardwaretoad

LOL ! ~ maybe a sticky is in order for this...

There is a crossmember that you either have to add or change as well if memory serves me correctly...

Looks good, the black Legos mix well with the green. BTW what kind of grill insert you running? I'm tired of lookin' at my stock one...

Good scores there, DanCamm. Nothing to pick from in my area at all. That's a b*tch that they're hitting you with a cover charge just to go in & look, 90seven... is there a 2 drink minimum too ? -alcohol-

It attaches to the top of the back of the rear seat, is self-storing & pulls out & hooks to the rear hatch to cover all your gold bullion that you carry around with you...

Sounds like a stuck thermostat...

Has the mech torn into it yet ? If not, how can he justify 5 large for a rebuild ? Tough to diagnose damages when you can't see them ~ to a certain extent anyway. If you got it shut down right away when it broke, it's possible that you kept internal damage to a minimum. I know valve & head damage is a distinct possibility when the belt lets go, something about Nissans being "non-dedicated" or something like that. The valvetrain doesn't float "free" of input when a belt jumps or breaks, causing major problems. I'd go along the way jj suggested... the Japanese pull-outs usually have under 30k miles on them. You could probably pick one up & have it installed for 1500-2000, depending on different things of course. Beats 5 large any day. :contract: Be hard to recoup your investment, but a new motor would be a point in your favor when you go to sell it. If none are available locally, you might try these guys for one out of a wreck: Nissan Only Wrecking Good luck no matter which way you choose... BTW, I had mine "jump" a couple of cogs while on vacation, just outside Searchlight, Nv. about 6 years ago. Ended up having to have it put on the back of a truck & hauled to the stealer in Henderson. Got lucky as to no "big" damage ~ but it was still the better part of $1k to get back on the road, $200 of that being the truck ride... new belt, retime it, etc. They had me by the shorthairs, ya know? What can you do on the side of the road in BFE? :furious:

Is it just your highbeams? If so, there's a good chance that it's the contacts in your combo switch. There's about a half dozen screws that hold the 2 halves of your steering column together. Once you're in there pop the combo switch loose (2 screws), just a matter of opening it up ~ carefully ~ and cleaning the brass contacts. They also might need some tender tweaking so that they make better contact. That works alot of times but to replace the whole schlemeel is what I did... the cams inside on mine were worn past the point of no return, no surprise seeing how the whole thing's plastic. Should be under a C note for a new one ~ and 10 minutes of your time. :contract:

And all this time I've been carrying insurance in case I do get in an accident... never knew you could put it on after an accident. Or are you meaning that you usually just pay out of pocket when you hit someone ? :confused: Might try these guys for parts... Nissan Only Wreckers

Ghetto fab...

If all you want is an inch in the back, why don't you just go with a spacer on the top of the coil to effectively push the rear down? Seems easier than trial & fit on JGC coils to me...

Yeah, neat idea... but why's it paved & striped ?

Just hit the search key up at the top... type in body lift, suspension lift, torsion bar adjusting, JGC coils, torsion bar re-indexing, to name a few. Try also the "sticky" threads at the top of the Garage section pertaining to lifting. All will give you a very good idea as to what will do what, & how much it'll take to do it. -study- After studying a little, you'll be more informed as to not ask quite so generic a question. There's too many different ways to lift, you can lift a little or alot ~ what you want of your rig after it's done will decide which way you go... If you can slam 'em, you can lift 'em too. Not my cup of tea, but on the 620's... and kudos for picking up a Pathy ~ looks pretty clean.

They probably stripped the threads out of the pan... drain plug takes no torque at all to snug up, just foolish (& lazy) for the mech to use a rattle gun on it in the first place. I ran into probs with the local Yota dealer when I took my Supra in to have the heater blower replaced. Got the car back & the power antenna wasn't working ~ the leads for it run through the same area under the dash, which I pointed out to them. The mech claimed that nothing for the antenna was in the area that he worked in (wrong, liar). They claimed no responsibility... "merely a coincidence" said the service manager. I ended up taking the CD player out & what do you know ? The switched lead had been torn loose. I'm contemplating sending them a freaking bill for my time & aggravation.

3.5"- 4" BS would seem to be about right. 88's running 4" BS with 33x10.50's. I've got 31x 10.50's on stock Legos (5"BS) and have some rub at full lock. Of course that's without any BL or SL, both of which you'll need (and fender trimming) to run 33's. Unless you plan on not turning or going over anything. As far as sticking out too far... that's why God invented fender flares ! :bow: Hopefully I've got this right... chime in everybody! :gossip:

I thought the chrome steels were 6" and the alloy Legos were 7"... correct me if I'm wrong. I've got 31x10.50x15's on my Legos (5"BS) and there is some rubbing at full lock. Not much, but it's there. If you were to go to an 8" rim with say a 3.75" or 4" BS for your 31's, you'd be happier. As it's been mentioned, no way will 32's fit without lifting and/or cutting.

You bet, eh! Matter of fact it's on later this evening, plan on tuning in. I have to say though that I liked the earlier shows better than the ones they've been putting up lately... I think he used more duct tape in them. :bow: The one about the homemade ski rope-tow was great, so was the "Cigarette Bus" modification... classic.

Then there's this... Duct Tape Man

Don't cry, slick. Just lop off everything in the addy behind .com/ then click on their Pathfinder link on the left side in the menu. :type:

Curious... what kind of gear changes have you made to accomodate the tire height?

How about trying POR15 ? I understand it works real good solving the rust problems, just prep correctly.

Try a search in here ~ the shock subject's been covered 10 ways to Sunday. You'll find part numbers and everything you need to know for how high you're going, or planning on going. The Ranchos are available for any application you can dream up. Personally, from what I've read I'd stay away from the AC UCA's... try a search on that topic and I think you'll find out some of the problems people have been having with them re: extreme shimming & alignment problems, no zerks, being shorter than your stock UCA's, etc. Matter of fact, try some different boards ~ it's been discussed elsewhere, not just here. The only place you won't hear about it is on AC's board. :X

TJM is a brand of front bumper replacements ~ bull bars, winch mounts, etc. Similar to ARB, although I think somewhat cheaper in price... they bolt up to your frame, a little thing like this probably wouldn't have scratched the paint on one. Try a search here, there was a post not too long ago regarding both. -study- And vengeful, sorry about the H & R... I've had it happen to me ~ sucks royally. By all rights your rates shouldn't go up as this wasn't your fault being parked & unattended, but with the small difference between the two, I don't think I'd turn it in either... :contract: I could've used an ARB myself here a few months back...

You won't see any on mine, either ~ it's called "PAINT" ! Probably spruced it up for higher Ebay bidding bucks... :contract:

Dang, that's a tall '87 ! How ya planning on gettin' in there ? Nice to see a full pic, all I've ever seen is just the front in one of your avatars somewhere. Looks "formidable"... Didn't recognize you w/o the welding helmet...