Kingman

I wish it was the case, but they are all sequential fire until the computer goes in to safe mode and then a pre-set map runs everything open loop and the injectors in batch fire. But each ground is a different color so it's just plug and play to pins 101-106.

The two little red dots below the washer tank is where the coil will be. Shiny!!! A big bundle of wiring...that's only sorting out the MAF sensor wiring from the Z31 harness. MAF wiring singled out. I'm a little confused about why Nissan connected the MAF sensor and CAPS together. Not quite sure what I'm going to do about that one yet... And the fuel injector wiring is going to piss. me. off. I'm fairly sure there's 1 power wire to all 6 injectors, which is red, and the rest of the green wires to each injector are the grounds through the computer, which signals those for the firing sequence. At least that's how it seems on paper. I was getting delirious going through wiring so I think I'm done for the night...or morning.

Have I mentioned I hate wiring lately? Ditched the charcoal canister and mounted the coil where that was, plenty of room for the intake and what not. I spent about an hour with a bunch of degreaser and rags cleaning the engine bay. Now it's all shiny blue and easier to work with, instead of being covered in oil, dirt, and metal shavings.

Oh believe me, it's got plenty enough power. MY1PATH has driven his around the block with the starter, and I've moved my Pathfinder around from the front lawn and up the driveway with the starter so many times the battery has gone dead. It's a slow process but effective, and goes a little faster if you stick it in 2nd gear. So new fuel pump, still no start? If it suddenly died and won't restart, the coil could also be suspect. Sorry to but Rick, you're also on Z31performance, right?

Well damn, never mind then.

Use the starter.

It's also a good measure to replace the relay whenever you replace a pump.

Well that's...strange. The failure rate on the pump is insanely low...

X2, the snout is usually what holds people up on swapping everything over. Nissan produced 6 different crank snout designs for the VG engine. Sometimes people get lucky and it all matches up, like a guy I know (wish he would join the forum already) that put a set up from a '96 on his '93.

Lol, there's a procedure for that? I set aligned everything with the new belt and tightened them all down. Haven't had any problems...

Definitely the Xterra. Much better suited for offroading with a full frame (unlike the caR50's unibody and struts), fairly flexy suspension, tons of aftermarket support, decent amount of room, and enough power. As was stated, the VG33 is a strong and reliable engine.

Lol, I remember I was with my Grandpa one time and he was removing the crank pulley on his V8 Grand Cherokee for whatever reason. He was doing the starter trick and totally forgot the rig had auto start installed on it, so when he turned the key it kept cranking until it fired and ran, slinging the breaker bar out of the engine bay and on to the driveway. It ripped a few things out with it... I think all he said was "oops."

Turn the door upside down and shake it!

It's a common trick to do, and is very effective. Just make sure you don't have auto start on that thing...

I paid $17.99 at NAPA for a Goodyear timing belt. Perfect fitment...

True, I consider 1/8th" a "ton" because it's more than plenty. Shoulda been more clear.

Snap-On makes all of Nissan's specialty tools. Go figure.

Looks easy enough to make...

JB Weld runs off at only a few hundred degrees. It will not withstand exhaust temperatures. You cannot fix an exhaust manifold leak, if it's at the head, unless you replace the broken studs and gasket or tighten the nuts if they're loose. Always replace the gasket whenever you remove a manifold. You can use super ultra copper RTV on the new gaskets to create a much better seal, but it only works if it's in between the head/gasket/manifold. Putting it on the outside won't do anything. There needs to be at least one stud holding the flange on per port, and then you can use a ton of the RTV to seal the rest. Small leaks at the manifold don't hurt anything, they're just annoying as hell.

Uh, a manual transmission well never have a dip stick. And search, you'll find tons of information on fluids.

Oh boy, the heater core isn't fun. It's directly behind the center stack (stereo, heater controls) and up against the firewall.

The wiper arm springs may be a little worn out and not holding to the glass as well as they should be. I have Bosch Icons on mine, 19" for the driver's side and 20" for the passenger's side. Not having perfectly even wiper marks up above annoys me.

You're in the danger zone, but shouldn't have damaged anything like B said. Easiest way to correct the issue is to remove the rocker arms, this allows you to spin the cams and crank freely, until everything is aligned again. Then reinstall the belt and you're done. There's about 1/8th" between the piston head and the valve.

Limp mode is batch fire with an open loop pre-set map. Normal mode is sequential fire until a full throttle application, then they become batch fire.

Very true. I've lost so many nuts, washers, sockets, and whatever else into the random crevices on my Pathfinder.