Kingman

Just as a more direct intake, so the air is forced in to the filter instead of only in to the open space and being sucked up from there.

Have you thought about making another elbow that comes out of the fender and points directly at the filter?

And be careful with emissions, and the swap would include changing every little thing over. Are you thinking of putting in a TD27? And yes the diesels came with a manual transmission. However if you use the 4 cylinder, the bell housing bolt pattern will be different. Good thing is, you can always swap bell housings. If you do start this project, I'm in Vancouver and would love to come take a look...

I typed an entire description, I thought it posted... I guess I must have somehow highlighted and typed again and cleared it all. It's not as bad as "search" though. Good luck, hopefully you didn't get a crappy belt. I've put one on from a cheapo parts store and it squealed no matter what until I replaced it again with one from NAPA. It's always a good idea to roughen the pulleys up every time you replace a belt.

What's wrong with Frankenfinder?

I want to say it's 10x1.5. That seems to be what almost all of the bolts are that attach the components underneath these things.

De-glaze the pulley.

26 PSI is way too squishy for me, I've had mine set at 35 PSI for as long as I've owned this Pathfinder and my last one. Tread wear is perfect.

Cool, I need to do that. I ripped the whole damn dinger out of the lower kick panel on mine. The reminder when the lights are on is nice...

I would say a junk yard. My passenger side one is so messed up I had to stick 3 layers of double sided foam tape on the door where the switch plunger meets it, just to keep the light from turning on when going around corners or someone leans on the arm rest. I keep forgetting to yank a few...

I used the stock pulley, and made a spacer from some steel tubing. Never had a problem with it,.

The lower intake manifold gasket is metal with rubber linings. If it's good, it will never require any kind of additive to seal. Keep in mind also, if you squeeze the RTV between the manifold and cylinder heads, it beads out of the sides and hardens, the flow of air, fuel, and coolant through the system will be dampened and could be enough to break little pieces loose and suck them right through the engine.

I edited a little, thanks B for changing the MT level. This is just kind of a rough draft, everything was copied word for word out of an updated shop manual covering Pickups and Pathfinders from 1970-1989. Obviously the information is a little old, and Nissan may have updated some of their specifications along the way; such as the TSB for the manual transmissions. I also haven't checked this information against a Nissan FSM, since I can imagine it would be a little difficult to find one for a diesel Terrano, 2WDs, and the few 4 cylinders out there. If someone has access to that specific information, feel free to chime in. Hopefully this can be edited to be as close to 100% correct as possible and used as a reference in the future.

Here is a list of the lube specifications from Nissan for the WD21, D21, and some caR50. The caR50 Pathfinders use the same transmission, transfer case, and differentials as the WD21, so lube specifications for those will be the same. I do not have the information available for the rest, however. The commonly known TSB for the WD21 manual transmission was fixed at the factory when the R50 was introduced. Nothing fancy, just the basics. Please, feel free to add to the list. Type: Engine oil - 5W30 (or whatever works best for your particular application) Manual transmission oil: Gasoline engine - APL GL-4 SAE 75W90 Diesel engine - APL GL-3 SAE 90 or 140 Differential oil: Open differential - APL GL-5 SAE 80W90 LSDs differential - Use only LSD gear oil APL GL-5 SAE 80W90 approved for Nissan LSDs Transfer case oil - APL GL-4 80W90 Automatic transmission fluid - DEXRON or DEXRON II (Dexron III is "suitable") Chassis: Wheel bearings, muffler bearings, steering knuckles, drives hafts - Multipurpose lithium grease No. 2 Steering drag link, sliding shaft yoke - Multipurpose lithium grease No. 0 Power steering fluid - Automatic transmission fluid DEXRON or DEXRON II (Dexron III is "suitable") Brake fluid - DOT3 or DOT4. DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3, and also absorbs much less moisture. Both are compatible with zero issues Clutch fluid - Brake fluid DOT3 or DOT4. DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3, and also absorbs much less moisture. Both are compatible with zero issues Fill quantity: Engine oil 4 cylinder: With filter change 2WD - 4.0 quarts (3.79 liters) 4WD - 4.5 quarts (4.26 liters) Without filter change: 2WD - 3.5 quarts (3.31 liters) 4WD - 4.0 quarts (4.26 liters) Engine oil 6 cylinder: With filter change 2WD - 4.25 quarts (4.02 liters) 4WD - 3.7 quarts (3.5 liters) Without filter change: 2WD - 3.8 quarts (3.58 liters) 4WD - 3.2 quarts (3.03 liters) Engine oil 4 cylinder diesel: With filter change 4WD - 7.9 quarts (7.48 liters) Without filter change: 4WD - 7.1 quarts (6.72 liters) Manual transmission fluid - 5.1 quarts (4.83 liters) REFER TO THIS THREAD FOR THE TSB INFORMATION ON OVER-FILLING THE MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS. http://npora.ipbhost...?showtopic=2621 Differential: Front R180A - 2.75 pints (1.3 liters) R200A - 3.1 pints (1.47 liters) Rear H190A - 3.1 pints (1.47 liters) C200 - 2.75 pints (1.3 liters) H223B - 5.85 pints (2.77 liters) Automatic transmission fluid - 6.15 quarts (5.82 liters) Steering gear: Manual - .75 pints (.35 liters) Power - 2.15 pints (1.02 liters) Coolant: (includes coolant recovery tank, if so equipped.) Use regular "green" fluid, it is Ethylene Glycol. Do not, under any circumstances, mix red and green coolant. Destruction of parts will ensue. 6 cylinder - 11.1 quarts (10.5 liters) 4 cylinder gasoline - 9.25 quarts (8.76 liters) 4 cylinder diesel - 13.5 quarts (12.78 liters) Blinker fluid - 2.97247821466358 pints, use Nissan Part No. 999MP-WD21D21R50WD22Z31Z32Z33Z34 (1.40627934 liters) Automatic transmission fluid oxidation in degrees Fahrenheit, life expectancy in miles: 175F - 100,000 195F - 50,000 212F - 25,000 235F - 12,000 255F - 6,250 275F - 3,000 295F - 1,500 315F - 750 335F - 325 355F - 160 375F - 80 390F - 40 415F - Less than 30 minutes

APL GL-5 80W90. Taken directly from a Nissan/Datsun repair and shop manual.

Don't be too worried about the voltage while cranking, obviously starters are extremely high draw. A proper load test is the way to tell how well your battery is holding up. 15 seconds, at a draw if 1/2 the cold cranking amps of the battery's rating. Anything below 9.6V or thereabouts at 70F is considered a bad battery. Yes, that's very weak spark. Maybe hit up a junk yard for a cheap replacement?

Yes, that. A Pathfinder motor and intake is designed for, well, a Pathfinder so it will fit fine. My Z31 intake is longer in the back, because the engine bay in the 300ZX is quite a bit longer and the motor sits further forward in the engine bay, allowing room for the back of the intake and exhaust cross over pipe with room to spare. Am I crazy for doing this? Most certainly...

Have you tried running a seriously concentrated mix of injector cleaner or Seafoam? Like, 2-3 gallons of fuel to an entire bottle? I'm wondering if fuel injectors are a little clogged... reading your last post made me think of the vehicles I've worked on with the same problem basically, and they were fixed by that or having the injectors ultrasonically cleaned.

I agree, I vote for pictures of rigs in "action" so to speak, on their way to a destination rather than stopping and posing though a lot of those pictures are badass. The background and focal point count a lot too, and clarity.

I like this!

Uh, your Pathfinder has HOW MANY MILES?! Bastage!

Getting closer, Mister510 kindly sent me some injector parts I had lost along the way so I was finally able to fit the injector rail on. I'm greatly annoyed by the fact that the fuel lines for the stock TBI would fit perfectly on the feed and return lines on the Z31 system, if they weren't backwards. so the feed line would fit perfectly on the return line, and visa versa. So I'll need to make a pit stop at a junk yard soon.

If it is the distributor, and it sounds like it, there's been a slough of people who've had to replace them lately. Strange...

MTs are generally horrible for ice due to having less of a contact patch on smooth surfaces. Swampers flat out suck on anything other than mud. And Pitbull Rockers are badass.

Coil.