Kingman

Someone converted your belts to serpentine (poly-V)? Pics? I'm assuming it's a Z swap.

Go look?

4PSI? Not what I've read, a few different places have said different things and when I was talking to a small Nissan mechanic shop that's been in business for 25 years, he told me what I wrote. If it's only 4PSI, 40HP from that low of boost would theoretically mean there's much more room for power to be made. Do supercharges run the risk of pre detonation like turbos do? But I wouldn't need to even mess with the throttle body since mine's already completely fuel injected, and it almost looks like from the picture in the ad the runners on the lower intake manifold are the same or similar to what I have, and if that's the case the supercharger could be bolted right on. I want to find someone with a supercharged truck and stop them so I can take a real close look under the hood.

*Snort* I wish I had the cash for that, or it was closer. I've wanted to supercharge my Pathfinder for a long ass time now, love the sound of them. There are a few pictures of a blown Pathfinder floating around on here, I can't remember where though. Put a smaller pulley on it and run 12-13 LBS instead of the stock 8-9. The SC VG33 Xterra and Frontiers only put out 210HP in plain stock form. Smaller pulley and the compression ratio of an NA VG (8.5:1 instead of a boosted 7.5:1) alone would make worlds of difference. Headers, cams, tuning, exhaust, etc. on top of that... This guy went the odd route, attaching the factory throttle body sideways running to the supercharger. I didn't even think the throttle body would function like that...

No they weren't. The rod is covered by the metal sleeve that slides over the lower portion when under compression.

Hahaha, dude, your shocks are upside down! Boots ALWAYS on top.

Which is why for the snow a tall skinny snow tire outperforms a wide tire.

Pretty much everywhere besides California it's 25 years or older is smog exempt, and all you really need to pass is a working emissions system that keeps the emissions numbers below the legal threshold. Example, the 2004 350Z roaming around here with a Corvette ZO6 motor passed emissions and is street legal.

SBCs are no where near as wide as a DOHC motor like the VG30DE.

I think it's just a rubber spacer they put in there do dampen vibrations so the metal lines don't fatigue. It's the one that goes in between the mounting bracket on the fuel rail and the lower intake manifold, with the manifold allen bolt going through it, right? Think of it this way though: when it comes to something like that, why would a manufacturer add a part that costs more money if it wasn't necessary? They gotta keep their costs down, they aren't going to add something that isn't necessary.

I have drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads from R1 that I got for as cheap as what I could get for the good-quality plain-jane parts at an auto store. They work well enough to send the rear passenger up front and choke the crap out of me or the front passenger, until the tires lock of course. I haven't noticed any fade from them, and there's a long windy steep hill going up to a local wheelin' hole. The old pads and rotors faded pretty quick and by the time most people get to the bottom it's hard to stop. After I put the new set on, no fade with plenty of power to stop by the time I hit the bottom. I also run DOT4 brake fluid instead of DOT3 which helps a lot with fade and spongy pedals over time. Towing feels much better too, more power to stop and easier to gauge.

Bull! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7jfV4ohWh0

I missed the 200,000 mile mark 34 miles too late. Now it's at 200,179 miles.

Yeah, you really can't drive a vehicle with a Posi or LSD in the rain the same as you would an open-diffed one. Hit the throttle around a wet corner like you would in the open, with the LSD, you'll be doing donuts. I usually have issues with freeway on ramps that are turned at the very entrance then slope up to the freeway. Giving it gas to accelerate always steps the rear out, though I have learned how to keep it to a minimum and not go entirely sideways. If you take corners nice and slowly in the wet, there shouldn't be much of a problem. There's sometimes the freak accident where it decides to step out anyways, which I did last night, with almost zero throttle applied going around the corner.

Ah. Someone stuck a VQ45DE in a 2-door WD chassis. THAT was interesting. You'll need to modify the firewall to gain clearance for the crossover pipe and what not, and definitely some other sheet metal and frame work to clear the DOHC heads. I plan on turbo-ing my Z31 MPFI swap in my '88 Pathfinder, the turbo will go right where the AC pump is. I had to cut a huge chunk of the firewall out just to fit the rear of the intake. Enjoy the wiring... Will you keep the factory intercoolers or run without? If so, where are you going to put them? The intercooler tubing? Will you be running the factory turbos? Is it an NA block that you'll be turbo-ing? An NA block makes a sheit load more power than a factory turbo block with less boost. What kind of clutch are you going to run? Are you going to run a 3" exhaust? Good luck with the build and take a lot of pictures.

I spent $130 for an Exedy kit from Ebay. It's well known that they make Nissan clutch assemblies, and honestly $300-350 for the "Nissan" name is supidly ridiculous. It;s a relatively cheap job to do if you do it yourself.

Lol, different motors man. VG33 VS. VQ35.

No. These engines are designed to run off 87 octane only, anything higher is completely wasting money. Newer (VQ35) Pathfinders are recommended to be ran with premium fuel due to a higher compression ratio.

Thief!!!

That's probably one of the ugliest grilles I have ever seen.

Neither do I, the correct term per Nissan is "compression rod." "Tension rod" is used on the 2WD and older (pre-'87) Nissan trucks. Rockauto has them. $23 for a set of polyurethane Moog ones. Look under suspension.

A stock Pathfinder should sit around 3/4" lower in the front, for improved road manners and handling.

This is your second post on this forum, GG has been around for ages here and a lot of us have seen these types of questions get asked repeatedly over and over and over. Same with the "what size tire can I fit", "how do I lift my Pathfinder", etc. Also, his post was from April of 2009, well over a year ago. Was there a point in bringing back a very dead thread just to say that?

The center link should have absolutely zero movement in any direction other than directly left or right when you pull on a tire. Check this: jack one front tire up off the ground and twist on it, the other tire being on the ground will "load" the center link when you twist and if any of the ball joints in the steering system are bad it will appear as up and down or twisting movement in the center link. That can account for a vary large variety of problems/sloppiness. Stabilizer bar link kits are insanely cheap, replace them. $10 at the most for the parts, and RockAuto sells polyurethane kits which stiffen it a little.

I swapped in a Z31 MPFI intake, injection system, and computer. I have a thread about it on here, you can see a picture in my signature - far right. Mr.510 is the one who takes TBI lower intake manifold cores and guts them, then welds the adapter plate on to install a Holley 2 barrel carb for Datsun VG510s. James, what does your O2 sensor do above 2800 RPM? That's when it completely takes over the fuel mixture. Seems weird that it would lean out under acceleration...