Kingman

Or just atmospherically vent the vapors. They make little micro filters that stick on the valve covers.

Me me me! Those bolts do tend to cause a lot of issues. I believe Silverton lost his UCA due to the bolts backing out.

A body lift won't affect an automatic transmission. It makes no difference.

Cross linking...

So that's what mine would look like lifted with 33s. I like!!!

There's four fusible links right on the battery. If they're doing their job, they should have blown...

Very very rarely.

You can, it's usually a little fussier about it because the front differential gears need to suddenly start spinning at the speed of the transfer case. With my manual Hardbody hubs the changeover is silk. It's definitely doable with the autos, but it's normally makes some concerning sounds.

180F is the optimal running temperature for a VG/VQ. 205F is too hot.

I'll help.

If you have manual locking hubs, that are locked, you can switch into 4HI at any time when the vehicle is moving. If they are unlocked, common sense would tell you that the CVs and front differential gears are spinning at different speeds (aka, the CVs aren't spinning) as the transfer case gears. It can easily be done without stopping the vehicle with auto hubs... I did it all the time. Rarely would it ever yell at me if I shifted firmly and quickly.

The carrier, not the differential. Made things a lot easier.

From the other thread - yes you can tighten the bolts from the starter hole. You have to. Alignment of the torque converter bosses is done by feel, with a philips screwdriver. Spin the torque converter until you can feel the boss touch the tip of the screwdriver, then slowly work the tip into the hole. After that you take great caution not to move anything the slightest bit and thread the bolts in. They are 14MM, and are very short. Easiest way is to lean over the fender and reach down into there with your hand. There's usually only enough room for your fingertips to feel what's going on. I highly suggest getting the support brace and oil filter out of the way. I doubt they are loose unless someone has tampered with the transmission before. They are torqued down to an astronomical amount from the factory. Same with the front differential carrier, which, needs to be removed for the transmission to come out if it comes down to it.

That's a good lookin caR50 man. There's one running around my town that looks almost exactly like that.

Don't drop the transmission yet! Remove the starter and you'll have access to the flex plate and torque converter bolts. With the transmission in neutral you'll be able to spin the torque converter and feel if the bolts are good and tight. There are four. It's a tight fit, but that's the only way to get access to the bolts. I would make sure those are tight and you don't see anything wrong with the flex plate before going through the trouble of removing the transmission as it is a major pain in the ass.

I would honestly look on 3.5L-powered forums to see what people run. Maximas, Altimas, 350Zs, etc...

That link is just the tip of the iceberg...

Yes, many people have said that you cannot fit 33s unless you cut fenders or do a lift and it's not entirely true...

Mr.510 has been running 33x10.50x15s with the stock aluminum lego wheels, on STOCK ride height, for a long time with no rubbing unless the rear end is fully flexed out. I've been in it a few times up wheeling so I know personally. He had to roll the outer lip of the fenders a tad bit, but other than that they WILL fit stock. The key is not to run wide tires. The 3+3=33 rule has been debunked quite a while ago, but not a lot of people have paid attention.

That's a hell of a list. All emissions related with for the most part directly affects fuel mileage. I would replace both O2 sensors and see if that also clears the rest of the codes. The downstream sensor should always directly mirror the upstream sensor, it's a testing system for the catalytic converter. If the two consistently show different readings, it means your cat is failed/failing. A leaky charcoal/EVAP canister can cause some pretty sheitty mileage as well. Sometimes one code will start a chain reaction.

Suddenly won't start and has weak spark? Sounds like the Crank Angle Sensor, those are known to suddenly up and fail for no reason. This sometimes helps: have someone stand by the engine and look closely at everything, in the dark, while you crank the engine. Any arching would be seen pretty fast. One more thing, if you spray starting fluid into the intake... do it after the MAF...

You'll flow more exhaust and be more efficient with a single large pipe than you will with duals. 2.5" from the y-pipe back, headers, cold air intake, cams, etc. The less back pressure you have the better, zero is best. Please use the SEARCH function...

I wouldn't bore a 3.0 to a 3.3 when you can take a 3.3 and bore it out even more, and make a VG34. And to add to what MY1PATH said. The W-series engines are from 4/87+. They have a much smoother cast to them and flow a little better than the A/B series from 3/87 down. The VG33 heads flow the best of all, and have a taller deck for more capacity. I would up the displacement if you want to make more power for cheap. You can spend thousands of dollars trying to crack the 200WHP mark with an NA VG30. A VG33 already has a 25-30HP advantage over a VG30.

2.25" is WAY to small for a 3.5L engine to breathe freely. Are you going with Mandrel bent tubing? Skulptr, Anyone who wants performance out of their VG/VQ powered cars will put a large free-flowing exhaust system on. Look underneath 350Zs, not uncommon to see dual 3" exhaust systems. You ran a straight pipe and got terrible mileage? Do the VG33s run an upstream and downstream O2 sensor?My fuel mileage went up with no cat and 2.5" pipe from the y-pipe back, along with a little more mid to top end power. Low end didn't change any.

Wrong. Optimum pipe diameter for a SOHC VG30 is 2.75 with 2" primaries (manifolds or headers). Back pressure is never good for any engine, the less there is the better. Keep in mind that VG510s and Z31s run 3" or larger exhaust systems. Same engine that's in a Pathfinder...