Kingman

Pop the AC tensioner bracket off and then remove the upper timing belt cover. See if the belt is loose and flappy (stretched) or cracked. If so stop running the engine and replace it.

9PSI. However, oil weight is responsible for what oil pressure your engine builds at any given RPM. The thinner the oil when it's warm, the better. This allows more flow through the bearing galleys and more flow means a better lubrication/cooling effect. The spec for VGs is 5W20 in cold climates.

If cost is an issue for you at the moment, get a set of good used manifolds like B said. You will throw your money away buying OBX or Pacesetter headers. They are practically garbage, especially the OBX ones. The only headers out on the market worth a damn are Thorleys and Mr. 510's Experimental Engineering headers, which are better than the Thorleys.

Upper and lower link bushings are what cause the rear axle to shift around under sudden loading/unloading.

It seems a little low to me. At idle my Pathfinder with 250K ran 60+ PSI cold and so does my 300ZX. What is it at when it's warm? Anything below 7PSI you've got issues.

I think I know what you're describing. Mine does it too and it's most definitely the rear trailing arm bushings. It feels very unsettled over bumps and ruts, the rear end steps out when I hit the gas and sometimes it'll do it's own lane change. It started with only driving a little bit funny and progressed into being dangerous. But I can't stop driving it!

Very good point about the ethanol content in fuels nowadays. I do my best to fill up at a gas station in town that sells pure, NON ethanol, fuel. Matt, do you have one of those around your area? If so maybe give that a shot. It's a little more spendy but I do think it is worth it. I consistently get 3-4 sometimes 5 MPG better with the pure fuel than any other fuel containing ethanol. Consistently. The engine also makes more power and runs more efficiently.

No, 300ZX clutch LSD is the easiest to find. The were put in from 4/87-'89 - standard on all turbo cars and optional on the NAs. Only '88 Shiro Special editions, which they made 1002 of, had the viscous LSD and it is a heaping pile of garbage. '84-3/87s were all open differentials. The problem is the price point, 300ZX CLSD differentials are expensive when the seller knows what it is and it's value. A unit in good shape can run upwards of $1,000.

Yeah, you won't break a CV axle from a LSD. You'll break one from a locker though.

I ran a tank of premium fuel through my '87 Z31T. Gas mileage was dismal, somewhere around 17MPG. Sad thing is, when I turn up the boost I'll have to run premium.

Nope, won't work. VG30DETTs have a different bell housing pattern than the VG30/33s, hence why the Z32 bell housing had to be swapped onto the Pathfinder transmission in the first place.

Exhaust is stinky? ECM Coolant Temperature Sensor.

Long screwdrivers work fine too.

Bull@!*%.

You didn't notice any knocking because the computer adjusted the timing. Older vehicles requiring premium will more than likely ping.

Good thing about LSD is it's progressive as it engages, so it's predictable and easy to control. Just don't put a ratcheting locker in the front, it'll yank the wheel right out of your hands and more than likely stuff you into a tree or bank...or off a cliff.

Sounds like the distributor gear.

Take the column apart and jump the switch...

Z31 300ZX R200 limited slip rear end drops right into the carrer.

Octane is resistance to burning. It contains no more or less energy. Higher compression engines and/or engines with highly advanced timing require premium octane fuel. Running 87 octane in an engine designed to run 93 octane can lead to pre-detonation or "knocking." The engine's computer sees this and retards the timing until the knocking stops, which reduces power and fuel economy. It also amuses me when people say they put premium in their tank when it's not required because "it's better for my engine." It's entirely a waste of money and the engine can't actually burn all of the fuel entering the combustion chamber per power stroke. Usually you'll see worse mileage running higher octane fuel than what's required.

Oh, you. Talked a few times on youtube... lol.

Uh, well, that's 01silvapathy's R50 pictured... Anyways, yes, it's possible. What part of Washington are you in?

I'd bet you'll see much faster spool times and higher overall boost once you fix those exhaust leaks. Lookin' good so far! Can't wait to see the finished product.

TPS wouldn't do that. It's used for kick-down only. A failing speed sensor would though...

So, did you do what MY1PATH said or not? You entirely ignored what he said, and it's the most critical post in the thread so far. The run-in procedure has to be followed. If not you might as well replace them again because they'll never be right.