Kingman

The stabilizer bar links just unbolt and slide out. For the control arm bushings, if they're shot and you're replacing them, you can burn them out and have the new ones pressed in.

I didn't touch the torsion bars or transmission, but I dropped the diff and removed the radiator. It all came out smooth as silk, same with going back in.

Must be a new edition for the MPFI Pathfinders, I haven't studied the wiring diagrams on the newer ones. The older versions don't use the extra plug on the TPS unless they're automatics. I'm used to Z31s and TBI Pathfinders. My Z31 MPFI Pathfinder TPS does absolutely nothing, as it is only an idle switch. Unplug the extra connector and see what happens?

The Pathfinder manual transmission TPS is just used as an idle switch. The automatic TPS is a potentiometer or variable resistor to give the ECU exact information on where the throttle plate is, and then feeds the information to the TCU for shifting.

M30 ECUs are far better than any previous Nissan ECU. Consult, adapt to changes rapidly, extremely, more capable of running the engine smoother, easier to install Nistune, etc. Now, the Z32 ECU is the most powerful Nissan computer produced. People have those running blown V8 drag cars.

Got it all put back together. Had a really bad miss for a few minutes until the rest of the water evacuated from the cylinders, it was so bad I thought I screwed something up. Runs a hell of a lot better now but still has a stupid little miss that sounds like a vacuum leak at idle. Looks much better with the plenum cover on. Had to cut 3/8" off the back to clear the firewall.

Here are a few pics of the coolant hard line that runs underneath the lower intake manifold. Here's a little lesson I learned the hard way because I didn't slow down and take my time to think. This is the first time I've messed this up and will definitely be the last. Coolant runs through the lower intake manifold, and down in to the block next to the cylinder intake ports. Not draining the coolant before removing the lower intake manifold will result in cylinders full of water and a massive mess as you can see from the pictures.

Took the lower intake manifold off to replace it. Totally forgot about the coolant passages in it and didn't drain the coolant. Filled the cylinders and ports with coolant, then galled the threads on the NO. 2 spark plug hole.

You would ask that...

That was my error, I was thinking a little differently when I wrote that. My bad. With your position I would try and locate some Z heads, or purchase a good used W-series engine.

The pre-4/87 VG30s are A/B series. The only difference is the heads which have a lower quality casting and cams that have a little more duration for low end torque. Physically, the A/B and W-series heads are the same and you can use either one. If you can't find a head for a Pathfinder, look around for a head for an '84-'86 300ZX. All of those heads are the older A/B series.

It's relatively easy. But be prepared to purchase new lower intake manifold gaskets if needed. The factory ones are metal with rubber o-rings to seal the intake ports on the head. They usually aren't bad and are re-usable, but re-using ones in poor condition is a recipe for failure and another tear down.

Can't wait to see it finished! Solid drive train choice, should be plenty of power.

There are three soft plugs in the valley of the block, and a metal hard line that mates to the back of the thermostat housing. That's all there is behind the thermostat that could leak. To access them the lower intake manifold will need to be removed.

Coolant bypass hose. The one that feeds the thermostat and is right behind the rear timing belt cover.

Not really, just make sure you don't use the old torque converter. I suppose you could get some cleaner and clean everything really well.

He says he's unable to get the proper timing. "Off by 2-3 degrees." I've put my distributor in wrong, it ran very similar to what's been said and I couldn't get the base timing set correctly. Took it back out and realigned it, bingo. It takes 5 minutes to pull the dizzy so I think it's worth checking.

Sorry, but I doubt you'll ever get a consistent "at least" 30MPG from a 4,000LB+ 4x4 brick with an underpowered 150HP gasoline engine. A diesel engine made to run vegetable oil maybe but the cost of that kind of conversion would negate any gas mileage increase for a long time.

M30 ECUs are the sheit...

Yes, they are the same.

Pretty sure that's a check connector.

I have a phenolic spacer on my Z31T. I also have dyno sheets of before and after. To make it simple, the spacer did it's job of preventing heat soak from the upper plenum to the lower intake manifold and kept the numbers between pulls nearly identical. Before the heat soak was very evident, with declining numbers every pull. Actual HP/TQ numbers didn't change enough to show an improvement - too many factors to consider. Generally longer intake runners will shift the torque curve to the left, which is what mine did. The numbers were about the same but the graph moved left a bit.

They're actually known to be some of the longest lasting tires on the road. Which makes sense considering they're made by Michelin. BFG ATs can last almost 100,000 miles, that's definitely not wearing out fast. Even after around 70,000 miles the ATs I took off multiple trucks still had life left. The MTs generally last around 50-60,000 miles. I haven't been a fan of the older Rugged Terrains, but the new ones look pretty good.

Current bid is $3550 with the reserve not met.

I took the floor mats out and cleaned them with Spic N Span, hot water, and a bristle brush. Then rinsed 'em off. Besides the wear on the driver's mat, they look just about brand new. When I started they were all muddy, discolored, and full of dust.