Kingman

So my understanding is that you are removing an engine mated to an automatic transmission, right? Then installing a manual transmission and engine, right? If so the torque converter bolts don't need to be undone while still mated to the engine. The torque converter will slip off the input shaft of the transmission when you pull the engine.

You sure there's nothing binding in the drive train or brake system?

Hmmm. It looks incredibly shiny and way too clean...

I spy new transmission?

Everything is engine-wise interchangeable. You'll have swap wiring harnesses to run the different computers as the pins and clip for the ECUs are entirely different. VG30I is throttle body injected and VG30E is the multi-port injection. If you want to change to an automatic transmission, you'll need that entire wiring harness, aftermarket transmission cooler, press a flex plate locating spacer in to the back of the manual transmission engine block (after removing the pilot bushing), a different Throttle Position Sensor, probably a different speedometer gear, etc.

Fried my &^%*ing clutch.

Yes, the CAS informs the computer of how fast the engine is rotating in order to produce spark and fuel at the proper time. It also feeds the ECU battery voltage. However, the sensor doesn't mess up or "misread" - it will only fail entirely. And when it does, there goes your fuel and spark. The AAC valve is for cold start only, and it is it's own piece. I think. I get somewhat crossed up dealing with NA and turbo Z31s as well as TBI and MPFI Pathfinders.

Get rid of Meineke. They're a bunch of asshats that usually don't know what they're doing and charge way too much. Seriously. I would go through and check every single ground. The battery light being on either indicates that the alternator isn't charging (due to an internal fault or loose belt), or there is a loose wire somewhere and it's tripping the light. However, saying that the lights come on at lower RPMs then turns off at higher RPMs makes me lean towards a loose belt or a faulty from the box alternator. Bad connection, maybe. Definitely check. Also check the connections at the battery. Sometimes the joints in the bundle of wires coming of the positive side of the battery can get weak from all the vibrations/bending/twisting of the engine. At the moment I don't remember which wires trigger the dash lights. Being as you started the truck right up at the shop that means the battery wasn't dead. Unless they did charge it, in which case you need to specify. What was the voltage reading on the dash when the truck died on the highway? Normal? Were there any lights on? Did you lose ALL power? Windows, heater, blinkers, etc? Or just starter power? Big difference. Oh and insert foot in mouth. My NAPA alternator just started failing the other day. It's whining loudly and not wanting to charge at idle or provide amperage under load. LOL!

Did you post an ad on Craigslist that I responded to for a timing belt repair? If you want to take a stroll on up here to Vancouver, I've got a good set of heads you can have. Not the greatest but maybe they'll get you by until a proper rebuild can be done? They'll need the lifters and rockers put back in.

Well leather takes the Wrangler and FJ off the list. Off road action? Pathfinder, 4Runner, Grand Cherokee. I believe you'll get a lot more options and an overall nicer equipped rig with a Grand Cherokee. Loaded 4Runners and Pathfinders are pretty pricey, unless that isn't a concern. But if I wanted all of the luxury options and some off road abilities, I'd go with an '04 Pathfinder Platinum Edition. So nice.

Buy it. It's not a TPS issue, I've driven mine many times without one - still am. TBI Pathfinders don't care much about the sensor as it's ONLY an idle switch for these. I'll bet a little common sense and a few bucks in parts that that'll be a good running rig.

You should really quit doing that! From the video it looks like you wheel hopped pretty bad, then slid sideways on the landing, hit the sidewall of the tire, and kept spinning. That'll usually break things.

Materials quality is bottom of the barrel on the FJs but they are pretty cool when done up right. Although most of the time I think they're one of the most cantankerous and hideous things on the road. Wheeler - do you want total off-road capabilities and a massive amount of aftermarket support, with some sacrifice to comfort? Wrangler. Want to go off road, have decent aftermarket support, and still have the comfort of a larger completely enclosed vehicle? Fj Cruiser. Luxury - you can get almost anything with nice trim packaging. Do you have an opposition to Fords? Checked out the new Explorers lately? They're niiicee.

I put $50 in the sucker and it barely got me 3/4 of a tank. Then went 45 miles and used 1/8th of a tank.

Crank Angle Sensor has nothing to do with idle. There's also the IACV that tends to get a little sporadic with age.

Put a new throttle cable in it, for the second time.

Wired the electric fan to an automatic transmission power switch from a Z car: Put new sticker on windshield: "Fixed" the broken hinges on the cargo access panels:

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28134

They are standard plugs, just twice as many. It's really nice having to do a tune up for a V8 on a 4 cylinder.

Those are fuel line clamps and they work really well. I yank every one I see of any Nissan in the junk yards.

More than likely the manufacturing facility that did the rebuild is to blame. There are a lot of good companies that do quality rebuilds and some really shoddy ones. I haven't had an issue with NAPA's rebuilt starters or alternators, but Schucks and Costless on the other hand... their rebuilt sheit fails constantly.

More displacement, higher compression ratio, better flowing heads, and it's almost entirely drop in. The throttle response of a boosted VG33 is astounding.

Inline thermostat like most manufacturers use on rigs equipped with an accessory transmission cooler.

That's better.

I think running the factory cooler with a good aftermarket one is really silly. They're prone to failure (caused by way too much debris from the RE4s) and with a 16-18K cooler it isn't necessary. It's super easy to run the lines to where the aftermarket cooler is mounted up front.