Kingman

As long as the tune is spot on, you can throw an amazing amount of boost at a stock VG. Detonation is generally the killer of them, the pistons are cast and don't appreciate it much. They like to blow the skirts apart. If this engine isn't up to the task (every engine is different) and something goes wrong, replace it with a VG33. You'll love the throttle and boost response from the set up.

I wish they would universally rate the coolers by poundage. Generally, a 16,000LB cooler is the minimum.

Check for spark, check for fuel.

Take the battery to a place that does free testing. They will do a load test and it will determine if it's holding a charge.

Either way, it is unplugged and therefore the light is on. If he finds the wire and plugs it back in the light will go off.

Always bypass the factory cooler, it's pretty much the inherent problem causing transmission failures. I've always mounted the coolers sideways.

Under the distributor cap is the rotor, yes if it's corroded it will not transmit the proper spark to the plug wires and make it run like sheit. However, it has nothing to do with anything temperature related. Coincidence.

The light will come on when the sending unit is unplugged, it is an open circuit. No resistance or "feedback" from the sending unit will trip the light. Plug it in and the light will shut off. If it's been cut or sheered off somehow, you may have to pull apart the starter harness and find the wire further back then extend it with a new plug. Pretty simple, really.

The sending unit wire comes from the bundle of starter wires, I believe it is yellow/black.

Mount it to the front of the AC condenser. It will get the most air flow this way, and not get heat soak from the radiator and AC condenser.

Probably. The engine sat for 8 years before I got it.

Started it up, watched a plume of blue smoke emit from the tailpipe, waited for the lifters to stop ticking, shut it off and closed the door.

Why would you block most of the radiator's air flow?

Older catalytic converters are packed with precious metals and are usually pretty big, so they're worth more at the scrap yard.

Hey, what's the resistance on the Subaru injectors? High or low impedance?

Both banks of exhaust collect in to one outlet before the turbo, so all six cylinders do work.

Yes, it's impressive. Riding with him I was amazed how the truck walked right over parts of terrain with ease that made others struggle quite a bit.

If I had to be pried away from a WD, I would take an '04 R50 Platinum Edition with the black leather interior/ash wood trim. I think they look great. The R51... ugly as hell.

It freed up some power, mainly when taking off after idling a long time and the factory fan clutch is fully engaged.

I pulled a set of valve cover gaskets off an '84 VG with 102,000 miles and they were hard as a rock, very brittle. Leaked oil like a MOFO. The ones that I pulled off my '88 VG with 196,000 miles were still pliable and were original. Obviously, the '88 gaskets had many more heat cycles on them but were four years newer. The gaskets on my '87 VG leak like a siv even after tightening, they only have 120K on them too. I guess it all depends.

Wire in the IACV, O2 sensor, replace the trailing arm bushings, change gear oils, and fix the rear main seal leak.

The best thing about an electric fan is it can be shut off going through water crossings. Yes, they can get wet. Yes, I get mine wet/muddy constantly and have not had an issue in the few years I've had it. I also pulled it out of a van that had 200K miles on it, and looked original. So it's a stout and reliable fan. Mechanical fans in water crossings can be dangerous. Fully engaged and churning water slows the engine and can break blades off. I've seen me do it. Or suck so much water through the radiator it bends fins and stuff. That, and with the electric fan running at idle, your AC will stay colder. I don't ever plan on swapping back to a mechanical fan in my Pathfinder and will soon be putting an electric fan from a Taurus in my Z.

There seems to be quite an issue with putting Lucas in VGs due to the bearing and oil pump tolerances. It's been known to cause some serious cavitation (exploding air bubbles that gouge the pump gears) in the oil pump and send bubbles of air through the engine. I didn't say it isn't safe in most engines, I said VGs specifically. No other mass produced engine is built as tightly as one of these and that's where the problem arises. Jeeps, Chevys, Fords, etc are fine with it because they run babbitt bearings and aren't assembled to the same retarded specifications.

Putting Lucas oil stabilizer in the crank case is a good way to speed up the death of a VG.

Did anyone search at all? Good grief!!! This thread doesn't need to exist... Less than a minute of searching. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20711&st=20