Kingman

Different spline count is all. The internal design is pretty much the same. I've seen 28 spline Hardbody hubs with the same differences as the 27 spline hubs I have.

Take the hubs apart and regrease them if you haven't already, and check VERY closely for burrs. I caught a burr in one of my Hardbody hubs and now it takes a pair of vice grips to turn the sucker. And I'm not sure where this difference is from the factory, but there seem to be two different styles of these hubs. I have both styles on mine (came from the same truck) and they use different length allen bolts. Maybe the newer replacement ones have the different design. With one style, the bolts sit flush with the outer case of the hub. On the other, the bolts recess in to the case about 1/8" and I think these are the ones that use smaller length bolts. If I remember correctly (at least on my '88) the auto hub bolts won't work with the manuals.

Yes.

Most are carburated.

That sucks! Yeah I don't know what the hell is going on with the weather lately. This entire area is screwed for the "summer."

It's got nothing to do with power, but a leaking exhaust manifold can burn up valves and I doubt you'll want that in addition to the other list of problems.

The dimples usually don't line up, but yeah the driver's cam is too far off.

From the sounds of it, it's just a stock Pathfinder with a REALLY well working LSD.

If you have the money, do a single 2.5" system from the manifolds back.

Forgot to mention? You're kidding I hope.

I put the cover on too. Had to cut 3/8" off the back to clear the firewall.

Yes, they are VG30Es. The engine was first produced in '83 for the Z31 chassis. All Z31s use the same cams, NA or Turbo. The MPFI Pathfinder cams are the same as the Z31s but are different than the TBI Pathfinder cams. The difference in the cams is due only to an update done to the engine. A/B series from '84-3/'87 and the W series from 4/'87 to present (they are still used in a truck in Saudi Arabia). The A/B series cams have the same lift but a longer duration than the W series cams. The only factory cam to show an actual HP/TQ increase are the European cams which have both a higher lift and longer duration. These are the factory cams to have. VG30E means MPFI. VG30I means TBI injected. Any VG30 that is MPFI is a VG30E no matter what chassis the engine is in. VG30ET means MPFI+Turbocharged. VG30DE is DOHC MPFI, etc etc. The Pathfinder intake plenum DOES NOT flow that much more than the Z31 plenum in stock form, I have seen various flow tests done that confirm this. The intake plenum design with the long runners does increase the low-end torque of the motor however the Z31 intake pwns it in equal air distribution. Gutting the plenums is an entirely different story as the numbers and flow ratings change astronomically. I will be doing a dyno test on my Z with a gutted plenum as soon as it's installed. The ECUs of course have different fuel maps and what not. "Performance" sports car VS. an SUV. Another cause for the increase power in the NA Z platform is the better exhaust manifold design and larger piping, which is actually pretty damn good for stock.

Yes indeed. They are all MPFI KA24s but many of them are single cam and pretty gutless.

He didn't, you're correct.

VQ35s are notorious for consuming oil, even in the newer vehicles. There have been many complaints of them consuming a lot of oil at less than 80K miles

The Z24I is both carburated and TBI. The KA24E is MPFI but the earlier models were TBI as well.

Thanks man. Carrying over from the other thread, the leaking IACV that "fixes" it's self when hit with a hammer is pretty weird. I think it's either a bad diaphragm inside or the seal on the idle screw it's self. Not sure rally but I won't tear it apart until I have a new good working unit. Which is kind of being difficult to find...

A little late, but yes the headers are interchangeable.

I *think* that if you remove the wheel, inner fender lining, and maybe a few other little things you can get in there with a dremel tool and a cut off disk. Taking the head off will remove the tension and the bracket will pop off. The bracket it's self is not threaded.

There's next to zero information here to go off of man. So here's what I'll throw out there while basically knowing nothing. Run the codes from the ECU. Do a full tune up. Replace fuel filter. Clean injectors. Clean MAF and harness. Check timing. Check/replace O2 sensor. Check/ replace CHTS. Clean the contacts on the TPS. Etc etc etc.

Rev match. Don't take your foot completely off the gas pedal when you put the clutch in, That'll raise the RPMs a little so they're closer to where the lower gear will be.

Ohh no no, it's not anything Pathfinder. '84 Z31. Link to build thread here. I have removed the computer controlled idle stuff (not wired in) and it has been manually set to exactly 1000RPM. The computer has zero control over any idle function, and I haven't had an issue with it till a month or so ago when it would randomly start idling poor after sitting at a stop light or whatever for a little bit. I believe the unit is leaking internally causing the poor idle and vacuum leak issue. Before, I could control the idle up to 1500RPM or down to 500RPM - steady with no miss or stumble. Whenever it starts to idle poor a smack with the hammer fixes it for a bit. So I'll source a new one somewhere and throw it in. I'm digging around on the Z car forums and I'm not the only one that's had a leak develop in the IACV.

Ahh, that bracket. It's a pain in the ass. It unbolts from both the transmission and engine though, so why not remove the two bolts from the side of block and leave the bracket attached to the transmission? It's been a year since I last pulled a Pathfinder engine and I don't quite remember if there's room for that but I think there is.

12V+ straight to the battery.

Think I just found the root cause of my crappy idle and vacuum leak type miss. The whole IACV. Messing with the screw doesn't do much anymore and when I tapped the unit with a hammer the intake quieted down a lot and the idle smoothed out and a few seconds later it started to drop again, then miss a little more.