Kingman

fskc yeah!

I've got some used injectors from my truck, could probably use a cleaning but they do work fine. That is if you don't want to pay a premium for a brand new one. If you're interested PM me, we can probably make something work.

Lol and this right here is a prime example of why it's a bitch to diagnose stuff over the internet...

Put the hood back on it and rolled it out into the driveway.

The kit from 4x4parts comes with packages of grease to use. Here's what bad links can look like when the bushings are totally separated. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uK97yYG2X14

Have you looked inside your ECU at all? If you've got a bad piece of wiring somewhere it could be frying it every time you drive the truck, maybe why multiple computers are giving the same codes. This is what happened to mine and it took A LOT of troubleshooting and time before I opened up the ECU to find the problem right in front of my face. Honestly now that I think about it, what I'd do is go to the junkyard and pull a good wiring harness from the lowest mileage, cleanest, unmolested rig you can find. That'll more than likely let you know if wiring is your issue or not.

Here's the thing... The CHTS, MAF, and CAS are all grounded together through the ECU at multiple pins and the chassis. Mess one common ground up (mainly to the ECU) and everything on that circuit could start acting screwy. Nissans love grounds. Did you unplug the temp sensor?

Your issue sounds exactly like my issue, which was the CHTS (your style of sensor goes in the coolant neck) even though it's new. Piss poor fuel mileage, hesitating, surging when cold (rich-lean-rich-lean...), slight "miss" at idle (although when cold or warm), no power when it's acting up, (comes from running way too rich), backfiring when slowing down for speed bumps (again running rich), and when it's bogging down it's slow to rev but when it's done with the morning freak out it'll rev freely. I also noticed that if I start the truck and it's not acting up, I can hold the RPMs steadily at 3K for maybe a minute. Then bam something happens and the RPMs will drop down to 2,500-ish and not want to hold there stably until it pops out of it's bogging mode, then all is well again. You can hear it in the engine and exhaust, it sounds like it's being completely restricted. When I unplugged my sensor every issue went away. Yeah, take a video?

Does it backfire a lot when you're slowing down? The "it acts like im pushing and letting off the pedal repeatedly" kind of feel like suddenly you're towing something or being held back then it's gone? Try something real quick, unplug the Coolant Temp Sensor from the upper housing and see if the slight miss goes away. I'm curious...

Lol those people are on crack!

Check out some wiring diagrams and see if there's a common between the two, then check it. Short or ground usually if fuses are popping.

Fixing that might keep the alternator charging enough.

It should go up by about 200RPM with the heater and stuff on as the AAC raises the idle. Try turning your heater on low and watch to see if your idle jumps up. If it doesn't, that's probably why the alternator is working so hard to keep up with the load at low RPM. What's your voltage to the battery when everything is on? With my fan on high, headlights on, and rear defroster on the idle drops about 150RPM and voltage drops to a little over 12V instead of 14V while idling at 700RPM. Around 1K I get my voltage back. Keep in mind this isn't normal and I'll need to replace the alternator again soon. And you're not supposed to play with the idle screw in the first place...

You can also remove the distributor cap and turn the engine by the crank until the rotor almost contacts a point. Then you can wiggle the rotor with your hand and when it does turn past a contact point the CAS will send a pulse to the injectors to fire them. You can do that while looking into the throttle body to watch the injectors work as many times as you want.

That's hilarious.

15/16" wrench will do the trick too.

Good you got the problem fixed, but damn that's expensive!

They should be pretty much the same. My old '87 Federal ECU is running MY1PATH's '89 California model just fine.

1.875" I'm running a 40 series on mine, sounds great until 4K then it changes frequency and becomes tinny till redline. Not thinking that's normal though, I've heard another Nissan with one that didn't do it.

Not definitely per se, but the new part number supersedes the old one. There's no way of telling between an older RE4 and the HD unless you know which vehicle it came out of (what I was told while trying to pick up an HD transmission for MY1PATH). Everything is the same besides the internals. So if you call a used transmission place and ask for an Xterra transmission, unless they wrote down that it came from an Xterra, they have no way of knowing which transmission they have. All they know is RE4R01A, auto transfer case or standard. Unfortunately for us, in Japan they offered the Xterra with the auto transfer case but not here. So what you may think is an R50 transmission due to the auto BS, could still be an Xterra tranny.

Pop the main cap girdle off and have a look at the bearings while you're in there, might as well pull a rod cap or two as well.

Octane is resistance to burning. 91 contains no more energy than 87, actually less. That's why turbo cars and higher compression NA engines use higher octane fuel... so they can push more energy (boost), advance the timing, and get hotter without detonating. For example, on my '87 Z31 turbo with a 7.8:1 CR engine and 7PSI of boost. 87 octane was MORE than sufficient for this and it ran much worse with 91 octane (made it gutless). The stock Pathfinder CR is only 9.1:1 and a VG34 with a 10.xx:1 runs fine off 87 octane. If I ran 10PSI of boost in the Z, then I would need higher octane fuel because more energy from the turbo means more heat to detonate the fuel. Yes, lean is mean.

91 octane: not good, it'll probably run worse now. Always run 87 as that's what the engine was designed for. Anything higher and the engine has to work harder to burn the fuel. If an injector were clogged it usually wouldn't spray any fuel at all, right? Not so much fuel that it barely runs and blows out black smoke. But maybe one is just stuck open? I'd test your CHTS if you find the injectors are both good. The sputtering and black exhaust while barely running sounds exactly like my issue I had a long time ago. The truck had to be towed because it wouldn't run anymore, it fouled the plugs completely, and ruined my catalytic converter. I forget what the ohm reading was but it was so rediculious it worked out to the ECU thinking it was -913156 degrees when it was really a 65 degree day. Definitely check wiring as well. The CHTS and MAF are grounded together. One bad ground could throw both sensors way off. Also periodically clean your plugs if you aren't already. Keep them clean so they don't foul and change the problem you're already having. The o2 sensor only comes into play above 2,800RPM for cruising. Below that everything is running off the other sensors. You could try unplugging it and see if anything changes. The engine shouldn't run any different, I've driven mine 200 miles with it unplugged and lost maybe .5MPG on the highway.

I think there's a way to clear the codes without unplugging the battery but I've never done it that way. The only way to reset it though is to unplug it.